[review] Wurkkos WK30 white/red/UV light

It is a point, 365nm cost more, may upgrade in the future

@Lightbringer

awesome light, great find! thx for the review! I have to try to get it over here in Europe.

Like this light a lot. Thanks Lightbringer for reviewing it. Managed to open the bezel with 2 strap wrenches. No heat and just enough force. Seems regular glue was used so a little heat should help. I’m still debating whether to replace the main LED with 4000K 351D and the red to a 2200K 351B. I really don’t like red led but might need it someday.

I thought my desire for this light will pass as time passes by.
Unfortunatelly not.
I’m too weak to resist. Ordered. :person_facepalming:

But I don’t think I’ll use red light. I’ve read aswang has changed the red led to other. Hence my question: what instead? I mean which footprint (edit: figured 3535), voltage and amperage should I search for to replace this LED? I think I’ll go for some warm colors, 3000-4000K. Or 5000K but as a thrower, so without dome.

Any ideas which LED could succesfully replace the red one?

You could swap the red one by a Samsung LH351B 2.200K 80CRI oder LH351B 3.000K 90CRI if you like incandescent light.

2700K SST-20 from KD is quite nice with BBL and below tint. If you want better throw and more lumens but lower CRI there are 5000K or 6500K SST-20s or maybe a dedomed xpg or xpl-hi. Its a small reflector though so don’t expect a lot of throw. I measured tailcap current for different modes with a regular multimeter.

White 0.01, 0.27, 0.88, 3.2 A
Red 0.02, 0.22, 0.84 A
UV 0.03, 0.5 A

So basically red has low med high and no turbo compared to the white led. Haven’t swapped mine yet since I realized it’s my only light with red led on it.

I’m actually tempted to put 5700K, 4500K and 3000K 219Bs in it. Damn. Now I’m tempted to buy another one.

Another purchase is totally justified considering you’re a flashololic :smiley:

So if there’s less Amps put in red LED, should I take something specific into account? Lowest Vf? Fewer Amps recommended by manufacturer? How about XP-G2 dedomed?

LH351B 3000K would be lovely to have. But living in Central Europe it’s hard to find one. As well as 4000K since L4P is out of stock…

Move the 351d to where the red one was for flood and the SST20 to where the 351d was for better throw. Then change the UV to 365.

You could replace it with a second white LED, remove the wire, and bridge it to the lead for the first white LED to get more output on all white modes - the red mode just wouldn’t do anything.

This got me curious and I measured voltage on led wires. vf of red led is definitely lower at 1.8V in lowest mode. Did not actually know this since I’m not familiar with color leds. So I assume its using a buck converter but I’m not really very knowledgable with drivers so not sure what output to expect if you replace it with white led with higher vf.

The leads control the voltage, not the pads. Shouldn’t be an issue.

Does anyone know if there’s a working code for this now?

395nm is fine for most things. Only certain substances need that shorter wavelength to fluoresce. Most things people would be looking at under UV (“pet stains”, scorpions, etc.) would fluoresce fine under 395nm.

I’ve even seen “UV” lights with just plain blue LEDs! :open_mouth:

About the only thing that would make the light better (as in perfect :slight_smile: ) would be a faint faint glow under the switch to be able to find it when it’s black out. Last night I was being killed by a mosquito, and when I’d feel my toe get itchy and then even go numb(!), it got away by the time I flicked on the light. Ultimately, I had to put my DC7 on moonlight to get the switch lit, and later turn on “breathing” :confounded: to be able to turn off the light.

Some company recently had a “night light”(?) function like that… forgot who, but I think I mentioned them elsewhere. I think VOB reviewed the light. Imalent?

Most backlit-when-off switches are either just too bright, or too annoying (eg, “breathing” switches). When you’re asleep, you don’t want a creepy “breathing” switch glowing at you. At least I don’t. And my Cometa’s switch is so bright I have to lie it down with the switch facing away from me.

Just a faint, red, barely perceptible glow would be perfect. That way you can grab the light by instantly knowing where it is, and know instantly where the switch is, too.

Be the first to have that feature! :laughing:

Oh, you’ll definitely like it!

No worries!

I really like the ’351 that’s in there now. It’s a nice creamy white, lit up everything wonderfully in my skeeter-hunt, and was almost as floody as my Cometa.

That candlelight ’351 sounds nice, but I’ve been using red at night for peeking at the clock, etc., to not ruin my night vision. Kinda eerie when I hit it full blast. I feel like a rotisserie chicken. :laughing:

Maybe add some knurling? Especially to the tailcap. :wink:

Do dive-lights have knurling in general?

I thought that with all the hoses, etc., you wouldn’t want anything particularly… abrasive… near them too much or too often.

I was thinking something along the lines of a stretchy rubber sleeve to fit around the narrower midsection. LuxPro lights have it embedded on their lights, and I’ve seen cheap AAA craplights with stretchy sleeves on them for texture/grip. Maybe even just as an add-in that someone could use or not as the case may be (like a clip, lanyard, etc.).

Welp, it was just a suggestion directed at MacLee's ^^^^ response as he alluded to an "upgrade". Wishful thinking on my part. Yeh, those little rayovacs AAA lights have that thin stretchy rubbery material that they use on the tubes. Works.

But OH, that tailcap on WK30 could use sumpin for sure. :-)