I’m actually tempted to put 5700K, 4500K and 3000K 219Bs in it. Damn. Now I’m tempted to buy another one.
Another purchase is totally justified considering you’re a flashololic 
So if there’s less Amps put in red LED, should I take something specific into account? Lowest Vf? Fewer Amps recommended by manufacturer? How about XP-G2 dedomed?
LH351B 3000K would be lovely to have. But living in Central Europe it’s hard to find one. As well as 4000K since L4P is out of stock…
Move the 351d to where the red one was for flood and the SST20 to where the 351d was for better throw. Then change the UV to 365.
You could replace it with a second white LED, remove the wire, and bridge it to the lead for the first white LED to get more output on all white modes - the red mode just wouldn’t do anything.
This got me curious and I measured voltage on led wires. vf of red led is definitely lower at 1.8V in lowest mode. Did not actually know this since I’m not familiar with color leds. So I assume its using a buck converter but I’m not really very knowledgable with drivers so not sure what output to expect if you replace it with white led with higher vf.
The leads control the voltage, not the pads. Shouldn’t be an issue.
Does anyone know if there’s a working code for this now?
395nm is fine for most things. Only certain substances need that shorter wavelength to fluoresce. Most things people would be looking at under UV (“pet stains”, scorpions, etc.) would fluoresce fine under 395nm.
I’ve even seen “UV” lights with just plain blue LEDs! 
About the only thing that would make the light better (as in perfect 
) would be a faint faint glow under the switch to be able to find it when it’s black out. Last night I was being killed by a mosquito, and when I’d feel my toe get itchy and then even go numb(!), it got away by the time I flicked on the light. Ultimately, I had to put my DC7 on moonlight to get the switch lit, and later turn on “breathing” :confounded: to be able to turn off the light.
Some company recently had a “night light”(?) function like that… forgot who, but I think I mentioned them elsewhere. I think VOB reviewed the light. Imalent?
Most backlit-when-off switches are either just too bright, or too annoying (eg, “breathing” switches). When you’re asleep, you don’t want a creepy “breathing” switch glowing at you. At least I don’t. And my Cometa’s switch is so bright I have to lie it down with the switch facing away from me.
Just a faint, red, barely perceptible glow would be perfect. That way you can grab the light by instantly knowing where it is, and know instantly where the switch is, too.
Be the first to have that feature! :laughing:
Oh, you’ll definitely like it!
No worries!
I really like the ’351 that’s in there now. It’s a nice creamy white, lit up everything wonderfully in my skeeter-hunt, and was almost as floody as my Cometa.
That candlelight ’351 sounds nice, but I’ve been using red at night for peeking at the clock, etc., to not ruin my night vision. Kinda eerie when I hit it full blast. I feel like a rotisserie chicken. :laughing:
Maybe add some knurling? Especially to the tailcap. 
Do dive-lights have knurling in general?
I thought that with all the hoses, etc., you wouldn’t want anything particularly… abrasive… near them too much or too often.
I was thinking something along the lines of a stretchy rubber sleeve to fit around the narrower midsection. LuxPro lights have it embedded on their lights, and I’ve seen cheap AAA craplights with stretchy sleeves on them for texture/grip. Maybe even just as an add-in that someone could use or not as the case may be (like a clip, lanyard, etc.).
Welp, it was just a suggestion directed at MacLee's ^^^^ response as he alluded to an "upgrade". Wishful thinking on my part. Yeh, those little rayovacs AAA lights have that thin stretchy rubbery material that they use on the tubes. Works.
But OH, that tailcap on WK30 could use sumpin for sure. :-)
I imagine a knurled tailcap might be doable without too much fuss, no? Could be an add-on, like Convoy shorty tubes.
is it Sliding when screwing?
what is looks like?
For the S2+, if you want a smaller light that takes an 18350 instead of an 18650, you can order the “shorty tube” to replace the come-with long tube.
The same way, if someone wants a knurled tailcap for the WK30, that can be made as an add-on, so someone can buy it separately (or it may be an option when buying the light itself).
That’s why I “noticed”(?) that lots of diving lights don’t have knurling. If someone wants to use the light on land, they can get the knurled cap as well.
Metal is very slick and you have to pinch hard to get good grip.
Knurling would give a good grip ~ will make it easy to turn
Juuuuust for kix, try this Magic Code on Amazon for 29.99, might be active now.
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