Sofirn SP36, impressions of a sample

Looks like there is a new variant - SP36S:

Sofirn SP36S “simple edition”, also with 4x LH351D LEDs, rating max 5200 lumens, ramping & group modes - possibly similar to the SP32A, or C8F, or C8G, or SP70 — these flashlights also have a ramping an dgroups mode)
(the Sofirn SP36 BLF Anduril edition also uses 4x LH351D LEDs, rating max 5650 lumens, uses Anduril firmware)

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33055962936.html
or
https://www.amazon.com/Powerful-Flashlight-Rechargeable-Brightest-Batteries/dp/B07TXDV1ND

probably a typo - “uses 1x 3000mAh 18650”

based on specs: it appears to have this improvement (if really correct) on the charging: it supports 5v/3A or 9v/2A charging
(IIRC, SP36 and SP36 ‘BLF Anduril’ has 5v/2A charging current only)

Ah, they are using a modified version of Anduril.

The SP36S does not use a modified Andúril but Sofirn‘s proprietary UI.

According to my information the SP36S can charge with 9V@2A or 5V@3A.

Please use the updated manual (English and German) that I have rectified for Sofirn and that should also be supplied with every SP36S:

CLICK HERE

Is there a way to configure SP36 BLFs Momentary Mode, to have the max Turbo brightness instead of the max ramp-level brightness??

Apparently the SP36S can charge in QC2.0-9v or QC2.0-12v too.

Got my SP36 today, and tried to remove driver (want to flash newest version of Anduril) with thick wire loop soldered. Pulled almost as much as I could, but driver didnt move.
Any new hints on how to remove that driver? I am afraid of heating it too much.

Have a look further up this page or at djozz’s original post

Or use the bent nail method from wieselflinkpro

I soldered 8 AWG wire on the brass battery ring then pulled like hell.

BE AWARE with this method you could pull all wires off the board, unless you are careful.

For me it was the easyest and most carefull way to open it.
I used a hammer and did a little beat to the nail and the driver falls out. The tape is to avoid scratches.
You can push the switch-board in the driver-room, before you use the nail. But you wont get it back out, if you fail to remove the driver. There are slots for the switch board to push it through the whole without desoldering the wires.

I can try it, but how do I remove the button?

unscrew the ring around the button with rubber gloves or a tong.

That‘s right. :-)

I experienced more trouble getting out the sideswitch than the driver.

Even the sideswitch had some glue underneath, so i had to pry it out.
Then using the bent nail (thanx for the tip) i popped out the driver without any trouble. I didn’t even have to use much force, just pushed the nail firmly onto the driver with my bare hands until i heard some cracking noises, that was the sound of the glue on the driver letting go. Some more pushing and the driver came loose completely.

Now just wait for the new MCPCB from Barry (just 10$ for a MCPCB with the Samsung LH351D LEDs including shipping)

Managed to unscrew button bezel, but cant get button out. There is a lot of glue and I used metal needle with slightly bent end, but it doesn’t move when I pulled with a lot of force. I am afraid to damage something.
By the way, does Sofirn sell spare drivers and buttons in case I damage mine? Or maybe there are non OEM buttons and drivers that will fit?

UPDATE: button is out. Will try nail method now.
UPDATE2: driver is out. New firmware flashed. Everything works!

P.S. HATE GLUE.

:+1: :+1:

Hope this does not have the serious issues the SF-11 had with parasitic drain.
Mine was a “battery killer”
Are the internal builds different ?

NarsilM and Anduril handle parasitic drain so it's quite low, #'s published in many places, unless there's some real problem with the driver electronics.

If the ramp ceiling is set to turbo, momentary mode will also be able to run at full brightness. It simply uses the last-ramped level.

As long as the button LED is off or in low mode, it should have parasitic drain lower than the cells’ self-discharge rate. The button LED’s high mode could drain a set of cells in about a year though.

Thank you for the answer, ToyKeeper! :beer: