What did you mod today?

Just the tail, but itā€™s a start :smiley:

An update on my Suitcase/prop/lantern

Earlier post



Added a second emitter group. And added two relays, as the current eventually will be to high for a switch to handle.
The second quad is XP-G2. 2x S4-5D 4000K and 2x S3-3A 5000K
The first has been upgraded to 4x XP-E2 P3 A2 amber leds

Next step is adding the 3A charger circuit, and connecting the two other 18650 bays.

And then ALOT of cable management :person_facepalming:

Hjeh, kewl!

Just donā€™t try taking that through an airportā€¦

Lol that is so trueā€¦

CRX BIG BRASS NUTZ Triple Luxeon v2 5000K - MTN FET Driver - 18650 - Fw Clicky Sw - 3200lm.

Nice work CRX! Love that brass nuts version! :smiley:

Iā€™ve been out of town with the birthday boy but on Sunday I modified the Arctic Cat Iā€™d been working on, condensed it from 650 pounds to about 44.62 ounces. :smiley: :smiley: :smiley:

44 oz = 223 quarters = $56, I wouldā€™ve given you at least $60.

now if it was 44 oz of organic herbs maybe you got a deal :student:

my third guess is a 1911, pew pew

Third was close, lol.

How about something more vintage?

This is a Ray-O-Vac Hunter Lantern 398, purchased on eBay, new-in-box. The Texas Ace Calibrated Lumens Tube measured 20 lumens with original bulb.

It would have used a 6V lantern battery, back in the day. It can also use eight Ray-O-Vac "#2D" cells (according to the instructions). However, regular D cells were too big and C cells were too small. The Ray-O-Vac #2D cell must be something unique. Doesn't matter, I will use 21700 batteries.

An EBLCL Maglite LED bulb (link) was installed in the bulb holder, giving it about 130-150 lumens, measured out the front (see runtime graph). A blob of solder was added to the spring, for better contact.

A dual 21700 carrier was hot-glued and wired into the main housing.

Two Samsung 21700 were installed in series (the EBLCL Maglite bulb is rated up to 9V).

DC-Fix diffusion film was added to the front lens to smooth out the beam.

A runtime test was performed, to make sure everything is working.

Thatā€™s really cool, Terry. Awesome how it still looks stock (except for the film) and Iā€™m assuming everything can be undone?

Also, does that bulb have low voltage protection? Based on the runtime graph Iā€™m guessing so, but Iā€™m not sure how that would work based on it handling 3-5 D batteries.

The cut off voltage is 2.5V. Just tested another EBLCL bulb on a variable power supply. At 2.6V - just a little bit of light - at 2.5V, nothing. I've used that bulb in about six other vintage lights, no problems.

Ohhh. Iā€™m sure I donā€™t need to warn you of this but Iā€™ll just throw it out thereā€¦ be careful with that cutoff. With your cells in series, each one could get down to 1.25V :open_mouth:

Actually, hadn't thought of that. I'm going to put a sticker in the battery housing to remind me of that.

Iā€™d be curious to see if the light is equally bright with only one cell (or with them in parallel for extra runtime). That way low voltage isnā€™t a concern. With such a wide voltage range and flat runtime graph, Iā€™m curious if thereā€™s a small stepdown circuit inside. In which case, running cells in series (higher voltage) actually might not increase brightness.

Just did an experiment with a power supply and the Texas Ace Tube. At 3.7V (approx one cell), output drops significantly (from two in series at approx 7.4V). Would only get worse as the single battery level drops a bit.

FW3Ti 18350ā€¦

A little bit of a different approach/process/execution/finalityā€¦ā€¦ with this Ti materialā€¦ā€¦ :wink:

Reflowed a 219c into a Klarus Mi7. So much better.

Would you mind explaining your process for opening up the head? I would love my Mi7, but that CCTā€¦ ugh

The last 1cm of the head (above the switch) unscrews. There was no glue but itā€™s on there VERY tight. Itā€™s super easy from there.

Ice blue E01 Aux leds

Replaced the green ledā€™s in my wifeā€™s fw3a aux board with purple
Thatā€™s pink/purple on hers, green/blue in mine