Thanks for the info. I like the look of the AOD-S.
The AOD-S does not look to bad. I am not a fan of rigid diffusers, they do not pocket well. I really hope to find one of the smallish silicone ones that will fit, none of my selection will fit. The ideal one, for me, would be similar to the one that fits the TiTool. I may try to make a form and form one up, not sure how well that will go.
Copper version with optic and glass removed on turbo.
CCT: 4556K
DUV: –0.0096
CRI: 95.2
Gray aluminum with optic and glass removed on turbo.
CCT: 4404K
DUV: –0.0109
CRI: 95.7
MF01S with optic and glass removed on turbo
CCT: 4355K
DUV: –0.0096
I have a feeling both of these are FD2 tint bin because from what TA said, there was an extremely limited number of FA3 tint bin on the market in the range of 1,000 pieces only. Fireflies said Luminus recently wanted to make some more FA3 tint bins so there should be more.
Like the style of the Fenix diffusor, looked it up and ordered it for 4EUR locally, thanks for that!
I have yet to find a decent 1” silicone diffuser. That’s what I would prefer also. The Fenix will be for my nightstand.
Finally got around to modifying Anduril and flashing it with an update that has manual memory and removing a couple modes I never use like some blinkies and muggle mode.
Main alteration which was fairly simple: set it up so that when locked out, instead of going to the second ramp’s floor on the double click it goes to what’s set for manual memory. Much nicer to use for my case, I always accidentally activate it so it sits in lockout most of the time.
This just means I now have a preset double-click momentary in lockout for when I need light for a couple seconds, but don’t have to raise either ramp’s floor. Only drawback is manual memory needs to be activated in order for said function to work.
Ooop’s I did it again 
Baby Ti….
Were you playing around with dad’s shrink ray again? :laughing: 
:+1:
That’s pretty darn cool. Btw. How is the weight of ti vs ti/cu? Is it head heavy?
Yep….and now I get to play with a Laser/Spot welder…at the local jewelry store/shop… maybe…
The wife has a friend who owns the store, they make their own jewelry/repair, he has a welder that welds Ti. :heart_eyes:
I knew somebody would get it! 
:+1:
Yes…awkwardly so (head) heavy…
Family group shot…
Shimmed the hole switch package down on the little Ti to make the button almost flush…
Whhhoooaaa!! Nice family…
Wow that baby ti is shorter than the baby al 
….and it will be welded ….so if it’s a laser does that mean it can engrave/etch your ti as well? Super nice mod :heart_eyes:
I was initially surprised at how light the aluminium version was when I first got it. The ti version is noticeably heavier. I realise you’re asking about ti vs ti/cu but I don’t have a plain ti version. I took some measurements of weight. The head has most of the extra weight but not all of it.
Alu version
Ti/cu version
While I was at it I weighed my D4ti with v2 head (aluminium)
Thanks! Great info. So do you find it head heavy too? Also, your d4 has the aluminum heatsink right? I remember the cu/Ti d4 to be tank like. It was too heavy for me.
Edit: sorry reread your post about the d4 v2 head. How much does the full ti/cu d4 weigh?
Nice work 
Yes the fw3 ti/cu feels a little head heavy but I don’t feel it’s awkwardly so as kawiboy puts it.
The D4ti is a tank. Stock weight 126g nearly half of the weight is in the head 62g.
The D4v2 is 71g and 27g respectively.
Note - the Lego only works one way. By that I mean the V2 head fits the ti body but the cu head does not fit the Al body. Reason being different thread profile, the older being v-cut the newer being square or trapezoid.
Any pics of that operation ? I’d love to make the switch flush on mine