Are the solder points on the extra 7135’s on one of the power legs, or on the PWM leg from the MCU?
If it’s on a power leg, I’m sure pencil lead won’t work for passing 350mA. It might work for passing the PWM signal, but I’m not sure.
You could probably also try taping a small square of aluminum foil over the jumpers for the extra 7135’s. Just be careful not to let it touch other contacts.
Mixed tint runs each channel at about half power. Power level is kept approximately constant across the tint range. The intent is to not see a brightness change.
The AMC’s run on full power without PWM at the extreme warm or cool tints.
That sounds right as far as I understand what TK has said before. It sounds like that includes if it is in auto-tint mode:
By the way, you can adjust brightness while in candle mode. I’m not sure if you can adjust tint, or if you would need to turn off candle mode, adjust tint, then start candle mode again.
Taping down foil or a thin wire would work just for testing out how one likes it. For a permanent solution a solder blob would be in order but I guess conductive epoxy would also do the trick. Personally I would use solder since it’s not that hard to do.
So are “flat” top NCR18650GA going to work without modification in the LT1? They’re not really flat and do have a slightly raised center positive contact unlike most other flat tops though not to the magnitude of a button top.
I’m always doing long term testing. After the power outage a few nights back, the test unit after running for 3+ hours on maximum, next day the cells were at 3.89 volts. it took only 5 and half hours of sunlight to fully recharge them with the Eceen charger. Again reinforcing the viability of the LT1 with a good solar charger being an indefinite light source for years off the grid.