goshdogit
(goshdogit)
August 19, 2019, 5:39am
68
MonkeyLight:
How to remove driver with pill and Led MCPCBs after unscrewing the driver retaining ring to be swapped with another FW3A/B/T?
I guess it is just by pushing the driver/pill/led MCPCP from head to tail direction or not that simple ?
Not that simple.
There is a ‘shelf’ between the driver and LED MCPCB. This light is not a ‘pill’ design.
Remove bezel, lens, and optic from head.
Unsolder red and black wires from LED MCPCB.
Remove LED MCPCB.
If you are swapping just the LEDs, you can leave the driver in place. Otherwise, remove driver ring and remove driver.
Clean the old thermal compound from the shelf and the MCPCB. Use a small amount of new thermal compound.
Be careful not to twist the red and black wires when reinstalling the optic/lens/bezel.
Here is a photo from CRX’s FW3A Mods & Teardown thread:
freq
(freq)
August 19, 2019, 5:20am
69
ToyKeeper:
… Yes, Illumn has been checking and calibrating each light. This is an awesome and helpful thing for them to do… In any case, that makes Illumn the best place to buy from, if you’re in their shipping area.
and thank you for that heads up… most helpful regarding this noob’s purchasing decision…
Paladin007
(Paladin007)
August 23, 2019, 3:34am
70
Thank you for great info. Is anyone able to help which emitters should I pick. What are the pro and cons between XP-L HI 3D , SST 20, Nichia 219c for this beast?
Would like to have high lumen, high cri (will this matter?), good flood with enough throw, and keep it low temperature. But I know I cannot have it all.
I don’t have any experience other than XP-G2 S3 with my Mecarmy SGN5.
What is the good balance for overall EDC around the house and night street walk?
I sure do like the xp-l HI 3d’s…brightest of the bunch, “least” heat…
cabfrank
(cabfrank)
August 23, 2019, 4:24am
72
The XPL 3D is not high CRI, but to me, it is the best emitter for this light.
xevious
(Gary)
August 23, 2019, 7:29am
73
Yes, it’s more neutral white, but a very “clean” tint without being clinical. I find it very powerful and considering the turbo output plus form factor, it performs very well.
BabyDoc
(BabyDoc)
August 23, 2019, 6:49pm
74
I suspect that illumn.com is NOT calibrating the copper version which is vacumn sealed to prevent tarnishing. (There was someone in another thread reporting an electrical contact problem with their new copper FW3 they purchased from illumn. com. Had illumn calibrated that light, I am sure that they would have noticed the problem and fixed it.) But if you are ordering the FW3A, illumn.com is the place to go in the USA. Perhaps, even with the copper version, you should go there, because their custumer service is great should you ever have a problem.
freq
(freq)
August 23, 2019, 8:51pm
75
ok… thank you for that referral as well, BabyDoc…
scosgt
(scosgt)
August 24, 2019, 12:08am
76
BabyDoc:
I suspect that illumn.com is NOT calibrating the copper version which is vacumn sealed to prevent tarnishing. (There was someone in another thread reporting an electrical contact problem with their new copper FW3 they purchased from illumn. com. Had illumn calibrated that light, I am sure that they would have noticed the problem and fixed it.) But if you are ordering the FW3A, illumn.com is the place to go in the USA. Perhaps, even with the copper version, you should go there, because their custumer service is great should you ever have a problem.
I agree . I was the one with the problem, and it got resolved in a couple of hours.
They are in the USA and ship quickly.
I am certain the copper is not calibrated by them because it is indeed vacuum sealed.
In fact, the clip corroded the copper a bit on the tube. I cleaned it up with a salt/vinegar combo, and a little toothpaste!
I have not calibrated the heat, but it gets so hot so fast you can not keep it above 800 lumens for more than a few seconds.
goshdogit:
MonkeyLight:
How to remove driver with pill and Led MCPCBs after unscrewing the driver retaining ring to be swapped with another FW3A/B/T?
I guess it is just by pushing the driver/pill/led MCPCP from head to tail direction or not that simple ?
Not that simple.
There is a ‘shelf’ between the driver and LED MCPCB. This light is not a ‘pill’ design.
Remove bezel, lens, and optic from head.
Unsolder red and black wires from LED MCPCB.
Remove LED MCPCB.
If you are swapping just the LEDs, you can leave the driver in place. Otherwise, remove driver ring and remove driver.
Clean the old thermal compound from the shelf and the MCPCB. Use a small amount of new thermal compound.
Be careful not to twist the red and black wires when reinstalling the optic/lens/bezel.
Here is a photo from CRX’s FW3A Mods & Teardown thread:
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Thank you very much for the helpfull info and instructions.
Exactly the advice I was looking for without trying pushing it first and damage the LED MCPCB and the driver in the process.
Much appreciated :-)MonkeyLight
CalvinIS
(CalvinIS)
August 27, 2019, 4:58pm
78
BabyDoc:
I suspect that illumn.com is NOT calibrating the copper version which is vacumn sealed to prevent tarnishing. (There was someone in another thread reporting an electrical contact problem with their new copper FW3 they purchased from illumn. com. Had illumn calibrated that light, I am sure that they would have noticed the problem and fixed it.) But if you are ordering the FW3A, illumn.com is the place to go in the USA. Perhaps, even with the copper version, you should go there, because their custumer service is great should you ever have a problem.
scosgt:
I agree . I was the one with the problem, and it got resolved in a couple of hours. They are in the USA and ship quickly. I am certain the copper is not calibrated by them because it is indeed vacuum sealed. In fact, the clip corroded the copper a bit on the tube. I cleaned it up with a salt/vinegar combo, and a little toothpaste! I have not calibrated the heat, but it gets so hot so fast you can not keep it above 800 lumens for more than a few seconds.
That's correct, we are NOT calibrating copper models to preserve the seal on the light. There should have been a note in each box saying so.
hank
(hank)
December 6, 2019, 8:03pm
80
Calvin, can we tell by our order date/order number which version of Anduil is installed on a flashligh?
hank
(hank)
January 30, 2020, 1:46am
81
No answer to that question. Oh well.
Here’s a lanyard ring:
wle
(wle)
January 30, 2020, 1:54am
82
you can do that with rope
google ‘constrictor knot’
wle
xevious
(Gary)
January 30, 2020, 8:50pm
83
Do you know of any good sites or videos for showing some excellent lanyard making?
You can look at toykeepers changelog and test what added feature is in your light.
ahirshy
(ahirshy)
May 9, 2020, 7:01pm
85
Wieselflinkpro:
You can look at toykeepers changelog and test what added feature is in your light.
Hank - USLight coincidentally started a thread asking the exact same question on the same day you did.
Assume you came across this already by now, but just in case you didn't here is a link for completeness in this Useful Information.
Summary:
Noir:
For older Andúril versions that don’t have the version check function yet, it’s possible to determine the version with the help of the features it has.
Here is a very helpful post made by d_t_a which lists features and the firmware dates when they were introduced
Lumintop currently seems to be shipping lights with 2019-06-27 firmware, the FWxx lights that I bought in the last three months all came with that version (i.e. with reset function, but without version check function). I have had older lights, like my FW3C, that came with 2019-05-22 firmware, and of course the very first FW3A lights came with an even older firmware (without 2-level lockout).
d_t_a:
atobe:
It was added to Anduril after (Oct, 2019), FW3A was released in summer 2019 time frame I think. I don’t think lumintop is doing new firmware on current productions either. So they should all have the same firmware.
I've tested FW3A with different Anduril versions -- I can't be too sure which exact Anduril firmware, but they are by trying out Anduril functions that were added.
Eg. my first FW3A doesn't have the manual/automatic memory toggle (I believe this is the 2019-05-22 firmware).
Next FW3A has manual/automatic memory toggle (so it's newer), but doesn't have the "factory reset" function.
The latest FW3A I ordered now has the "factory reset" function (via 13 clicks-hold), but doesn't have "firmware version check" function).
So it looks like Lumintop does install new firmware when it's available (as Toykeeper mentioned when I asked her). (Installed Anduril version may not always be the very very latest available firmware, but at least they do update it regularly)...
MtnDon
(Don Miller)
July 18, 2020, 3:24am
86
There are so many references to the FW3A I get lost and confused.
I have an early version, first batc FW3A that is going to get an emitter transplant from the xp-l hi 3D to 3500K LH351D’s. While I am at it I want to update the firmware. The other FW3A I have is a later verson with the momentary that has a choice of 2 different levels when locked out. I want that.
Is the firmware version anduril.2019-08-05.fw3a.hex the best one to use? Can anyone verify if tis version has that 2 level momentary when in lockout? And does that version have the version check built into it?
Thanks much.
leon46
(leon46)
July 18, 2020, 5:45am
87
If you had to keep only one FW3A, which tint would you choose ?