Finally got around to modifying Anduril and flashing it with an update that has manual memory and removing a couple modes I never use like some blinkies and muggle mode.
Main alteration which was fairly simple: set it up so that when locked out, instead of going to the second ramp’s floor on the double click it goes to what’s set for manual memory. Much nicer to use for my case, I always accidentally activate it so it sits in lockout most of the time.
This just means I now have a preset double-click momentary in lockout for when I need light for a couple seconds, but don’t have to raise either ramp’s floor. Only drawback is manual memory needs to be activated in order for said function to work.
Wow that baby ti is shorter than the baby al ….and it will be welded ….so if it’s a laser does that mean it can engrave/etch your ti as well? Super nice mod :heart_eyes:
I was initially surprised at how light the aluminium version was when I first got it. The ti version is noticeably heavier. I realise you’re asking about ti vs ti/cu but I don’t have a plain ti version. I took some measurements of weight. The head has most of the extra weight but not all of it.
Alu version
Ti/cu version
While I was at it I weighed my D4ti with v2 head (aluminium)
Thanks! Great info. So do you find it head heavy too? Also, your d4 has the aluminum heatsink right? I remember the cu/Ti d4 to be tank like. It was too heavy for me.
Edit: sorry reread your post about the d4 v2 head. How much does the full ti/cu d4 weigh?
Yes the fw3 ti/cu feels a little head heavy but I don’t feel it’s awkwardly so as kawiboy puts it.
The D4ti is a tank. Stock weight 126g nearly half of the weight is in the head 62g.
The D4v2 is 71g and 27g respectively.
Note - the Lego only works one way. By that I mean the V2 head fits the ti body but the cu head does not fit the Al body. Reason being different thread profile, the older being v-cut the newer being square or trapezoid.
It is just a copper spacer/sealing ring(s) that were laying around, I pounded it flat enough to the size of the switch pcb… I made 2 of them 1mm thick.
. I packed the button with a little bit of NO-OX-ID, (the cap/button jiggles a little) set the rubber boot in and then the copper spacer, switch and retaining ring, it works with out the retaining ring also…
. Just tried it on my Ti/Cu ……it works just the same…
:+1:
:+1:
….and it will be welded 
