Would you mind explaining your process for opening up the head? I would love my Mi7, but that CCTā¦ ugh
The last 1cm of the head (above the switch) unscrews. There was no glue but itās on there VERY tight. Itās super easy from there.
Ice blue E01 Aux leds
Replaced the green ledās in my wifeās fw3a aux board with purple
Thatās pink/purple on hers, green/blue in mine
nice work cereal killer
where or how did you make Aux leds board?
Thank you, the fw3aās have a lexel boards in them. I made the one currently in the E01 from a Banggood lighted tail switch (cut it down, drilled the hole for the led, sanded the bottom down really thin).
I have a new design ordered from oshpark using a ring of 6 ledās with 2 additional red ledās that come on when voltage is low (main ledās go off and red come on at 3.08v) using a MAX809 voltage reset monitor. I only put that 2 led hacked up board in it today cause I had the driver out and wanted to go ahead and wire the aux leds up now for when my boards do come.
Thats black magic Ck. Scary. 
Kawi, that sub Ti is amazing! Love it!
1.25 is best case scenario if the batteries are perfectly balanced, if not you could have one drop below that while the other is running fine at 3.6v for example. In series youāll need to keep an eye on both batteries separately.
As you have the space and obv the modding skills you could maybe add a couple of protection circuits for an easier life.
Nice mod though! Iām a big fan of sleepers.
Nice work, man!
GT mini blue switch LED
Modded my atmel Atmega32A-AU mcu iMax B6 charger clone
0) added header pins for flashing
- flashed cheali firmware onto it
- added resistor to mod 39kOhm to 40.8kOhm
- built my own data cable (data works now, didnāt before)
- calibrated against 2-3 Lithium batteries
- I gave up using logging software on Linux, unfortunately
(logging SW on ARM is sparse or I just donāt get it) - minicom .cap file capture works though
- todo: logging/plotting on Linux!
Result:
What a marvellous charger this clone now is, canāt believe it. It took way more time than I thought it would. But it was worth it in the end.
Just finished up my C8TT ANNA mod
Some test fitting:
Finished product:
Driver: LED4Power LD-B4 12A 20MM
LEDs: 6x LH351D 3500K 90CRI
12A CC mode
~11.55A tail - 3,205lm
FET mode (VTC5D)
~19.4A tail - 4,370lm
Wow, very nice build!
I have a C8TT with the triple setup, had to step up to a P28A (from a 30Q) to even get it hot!
Nice! Cool looking light, howās the beam profile?
Itās like the D4S Angie optics. Floody but the big TIRs make a nice defined hot spot with spill too.
This is the head design from kiriba-ru?
Yes, it was originally made for CUTE optics but he is also modifying them and adding a spacer for ANNA optics if you prefer. He also āfoybezeledā for me for a small fee since I donāt have a suitable grinder.
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My HDS clicky. Reflector bored out, heatsink thermal epoxied in. Triple Nichia 219b sw40. Dr Jones h17f driver. Reverse clicky in place of the original e-switch. Thinking about potting the driver with thermal pad and epoxy for an extra sense of completeness. This is definitely my favorite mod so far
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Also finished in the past couple days: Novatac quad sst-20 3500k, 20mm LD-A4 6 amp driver, new glass lens, spring bypassed, etc. Packed full with thermal pad supposedly 12 W/.
18350 s2+ 219b sw45k h17f. Ano stripped and polished because I hate the color but no pics of that yet
I finally got around to replacing the XP-L2 emitters I had put in my Dadās Q8. It now has an LED4Power conversion board and 4 3V XHP-50.2ās. With aging 30Qās charged up it showed 12,100 lumens out the front. I have spring bypasses done, and the tail PCB is screwed down with brass screws. While doing the emitter swap I also replaced the factory MOSFET with an Vishay-Dale SIR404DP. Pretty sure newer cells, or hotter cells, would get me up over 14,000 lumens, but hey, at some point Iāve gotta quit buying stuff! 