Have to admit I wasn’t aware of this, so thanks for correcting me here!
Pretty good info here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ionizing_radiation. I work with ionizing radiation a bunch because of the nuclear med equipment we develop. Usually I have 1 or 2 Cs-137 10 uCi button sources and a 0.1 uCi rod source around my desk, but kept in a small lead container.
I get the nuc safety training once/year to keep us certified - Yes: the 3 biggies: time, distance, shielding (https://www.nrc.gov/about-nrc/radiation/protects-you/protection-principles.html).
I’ll say!
You don’t (well, I don’t) want to make that a mandatory “feature”, in case you carry magstripe cards anywhere near where you’d be carrying the light. That could be a dealbreaker for a lot of people.
There are plenty of Nd disc-magnets that can be stuck on with Stoopit-Gloo (and then later removed with a little AcMe to dissolve the glue, if needed), which would fit perfectly in the hollow that’s in the end of the tailcap.
Deep-red… okay, but it won’t appear as visibly bright when driven at the same level as the existing red LED. I’m okay with it as-is, but…
365nm, sure, I could go for that… maybe. More potential to fry eyeballs, though, so warn, warn, warn.
USB-C charging? Meh. I don’t care either way, but now that I got lights that use it, I’m not against it.
Knurling? Nah. I’m guessing there’s some reason there’s no knurling on most diving lights I’ve seen, and I really like the “smooth look” of those and the ’30.
Maybe a separately-available tailcap and/or tube, then? Just like the come-with and add-on shorty tube for S2+es.
Charging-port moved into the threaded section? If it could be done, great. I’m not a fan of rubber flaps, but, they’re more accessible for The Muggle.
That I gotta strongly disagree with. There’s a shortcut to moonlight/low/whatever for white. With none for either of the other modes, I’d rather they default to the lower/lowest mode for the same reason you don’t want to get blasted with a face full of turbo in the middle of the night when going to the can.
… there are times when I simply cannot get to the red mode and UV mode, frustrating. That triple click is difficult. Any others have this difficulty? And is it intermittent?
That seems reasonable. It sounds like you aren’t the only one having trouble with the double click.
Never yet, and I’m not a clicky person.
It sux, for me too. That's why I'm trying to propose alternatives.
Just did it again - 1st attempt was white up a couple notches. 2nd attempt was RED bumped up to medium, 3rd attempt worked finally.
Timing lottery? Ie, too short a time to register an additional click?
I meant default to last led used . Low is fine . Frustrating sometimes to get to UV , and that’s what I’ve been playing with mostly.
“Bug” → “feature”.
Maybe it’s a safety thing, to keep people from frying their eyeballs.
Must say it again: awesome light.
I discovered the red light is perfect for not attracting insects. Another reason to walk out the Wurkkos 
Started a new thread about it here
Yep, and to quickly summarise, WW has less blue content than CW or even NW, so will attract bugs less.
Red will be best of all because it has zero blue content.
I’m still waiting for my strap wrenches to open the fatty.
Did anybody measure the glass diameter, thickness?
It seems mine is not AR coated so I’d buy another glass.
Be careful with AR coated glasses as these seem to have (negative) influence on the tint.
In some cases the tint shifted into green/yellow as reported in the Emisar D4S thread.
I did not see any typical signs (purple/green-colored reflection) for AR coating on my WK30 sample, too.
Thanks for waring me.
Does it have anything in common with the color of reflections you can see on the glass surface? Sometimes the coating is green, sometimes violet, pink, blue…
Would you recommend any alternative?
I don’t see even a hint of AR coating, which is fine with me.
Yeah, it discolors the beam, generally greenifies it and makes it yicky.
If you’ve got an Angry Blue™ light anyway, the extra green just makes it more aqua or whatever. Might not even be that bad. True neutral white would probably show it up more, definitely green-hued vs, well, neutral. Warm white would tend towards pus-yellow instead of rosy.
Sorry, I don’t have any clue which coating is best or which reflective coating has the least impact on the tint shift.
For those that swapped emitters is their three separate mcpcbs or just one? Just purchased one off amazon. I want to change the uv to sst-20 or sw45k.