Never yet, and Iām not a clicky person.
- YouTube
Enjoy the videos and music you love, upload original content, and share it all with friends, family, and the world on YouTube.
Never yet, and Iām not a clicky person.
It sux, for me too. That's why I'm trying to propose alternatives.
Just did it again - 1st attempt was white up a couple notches. 2nd attempt was RED bumped up to medium, 3rd attempt worked finally.
Timing lottery? Ie, too short a time to register an additional click?
I meant default to last led used . Low is fine . Frustrating sometimes to get to UV , and thatās what Iāve been playing with mostly.
āBugā ā āfeatureā.
Maybe itās a safety thing, to keep people from frying their eyeballs.
Must say it again: awesome light.
I discovered the red light is perfect for not attracting insects. Another reason to walk out the Wurkkos
Started a new thread about it here
Yep, and to quickly summarise, WW has less blue content than CW or even NW, so will attract bugs less.
Red will be best of all because it has zero blue content.
Iām still waiting for my strap wrenches to open the fatty.
Did anybody measure the glass diameter, thickness?
It seems mine is not AR coated so Iād buy another glass.
Be careful with AR coated glasses as these seem to have (negative) influence on the tint.
In some cases the tint shifted into green/yellow as reported in the Emisar D4S thread.
I did not see any typical signs (purple/green-colored reflection) for AR coating on my WK30 sample, too.
Thanks for waring me.
Does it have anything in common with the color of reflections you can see on the glass surface? Sometimes the coating is green, sometimes violet, pink, blueā¦
Would you recommend any alternative?
I donāt see even a hint of AR coating, which is fine with me.
Yeah, it discolors the beam, generally greenifies it and makes it yicky.
If youāve got an Angry Blueā¢ light anyway, the extra green just makes it more aqua or whatever. Might not even be that bad. True neutral white would probably show it up more, definitely green-hued vs, well, neutral. Warm white would tend towards pus-yellow instead of rosy.
Sorry, I donāt have any clue which coating is best or which reflective coating has the least impact on the tint shift.
For those that swapped emitters is their three separate mcpcbs or just one? Just purchased one off amazon. I want to change the uv to sst-20 or sw45k.
Here you go:
Like this light a lot. Thanks Lightbringer for reviewing it. Managed to open the bezel with 2 strap wrenches. No heat and just enough force. Seems regular glue was used so a little heat should help. Iām still debating whether to replace the main LED with 4000K 351D and the red to a 2200K 351B. I really donāt like red led but might need it someday. [image] [image]
Thanks! Do you think the uv is a standard 3535 footprint?
I was quite astonished he didn't RUN!
I ordered the Wurkkos W30 and it just arrived today.
Iām testing it out. Noticed some things. The UV isnāt 365nm (already mentioned above). I notice that it will not make certain āmarkingsā on our countryās currency glow, unlike when I use the Convoy S2+ with Nichia UV365 or Convoy S2 with LG UV365 LEDs.
Another thing is, Iām not sure if this has been pointed out in the earlier pages ā it might be a bug:
1) from Off, double-click to operate Red light
2) double-click again to operate Strobes mode of Red light (flashing Red only)
3) single-click to advance to next strobe mode (alternate flashing Red + White)
4) now when the light is actually flashing the White LED, do a double-click
(what this does is go back to the regular Red light mode)
=> the bug is that, now in regular Red light mode, use single-click to advance to next higher Red brightness level;
when the Red is on High mode, the white LED will also be lit up (in Low brightness).
Normally, when in regular Red mode, single-click will advance the Red light brightness, but will not turn on the White LED.
But following the above sequence, it appears to trigger the Red + White LED being turned on at the same time
(the White LED becoming On while in Red light doesnāt seem to occur all the time, but it seems to get triggered more often when doing the ādouble-clickā while the flashlight is in Alternating Red+White and the light is actually flashing White at the time of the Double-click).
Anyone tried the above?
Enjoy the videos and music you love, upload original content, and share it all with friends, family, and the world on YouTube.
Tried it with my light, couldnāt get mine to do what you described.
me neither
Mine neither. sounds like yours has a resistance leak on the white ledās high mode switching