LED light vs. attracting insects

There are also “hunting” lights with the choice of red or green emitters. You can find “hunting” versions of the C8 and the Brinyte B158 zoomie for sale this way.

That’s what the ’801 is generally used for, given its deep-dish reflector. Pushes the spill way out in front vs a shallower reflector.

I got a few of ’em, ’though in green. Sold as “hog lights”.

Apparently the Hog Invasion has people going out in droves gunning ’em down before they take over.

Talk about going “hog wild”…

It’s hardly like they tend to show it on TV. Most of us that are hunting them down here are doing it to protect our land and property from the damage they do. It’s not droves of us out there with AR15s with a bunch of lights and lasers attached to the barrel like I’ve seen major medias report it as.

Most of the issues we have had have been out of staters trespassing because they heard they can go anywhere and do anything to chase hogs down here.

Never saw any of that on teevee. :slight_smile:

But yeah, I’ve seen pix of what damage they can do, digging up things, knocking down fences, etc.

And they’ll kill ya dead if you turn your back on ’em.

Think I’d want a minigun if I went anywhere in Hawg Country…

A hollow point .22 works just fine. Most of the time after the first shot they all scatter, heck a lot of times they scatter before that first shot. I grew up hunting them long before the epidemic (at least 20-25 years). All I’ve ever used was a .22 mag 6 shooter if we are using dogs (don’t 99% of the time as I don’t believe in it). If I’m still hunting em I’ll use a marlin 336 in 30-30. No need for anything full auto as I live in timber country and you rarely get a 2nd clear shot. I’m also not one of the idiots that will wound an animal to let it run off and die. Most of the horror stories you see deals with a cornered animal or you get between a sow and her piglet. Any animal does the same thing in those cases.

heck yeah. best super warm emitter :smiley:

I didn’t notice this before, but “close to zero blue” and “ultra high CRI” are mutually exclusive. :wink:

No, it depends entirely in the color temperature. At <=2000K there is basically no blue content in the light. You can check this by measuring the cri and spectrum of a candle (see here).

Normally the lower the CCT, the less blue light there is. However, this is not always the case. I’ve measured 3000K lights with more blue light than 4000K. Even lights of the same temperature can have very different amount of blue lights. From my anecdotal data, high cri lights of the same CCT emit less blue wavelengths because less blue light gets through the thicker phosphor without being converted to other wavelengths. The E21A 2000K measures less than all other similarly warm light sources I’ve measured. It contains less blue wavelength than a Phillips 2400K incandescent bulb that I measured. Though a candle light might contain a bit less blue than the E21A 2000K.

High CRI sunlight is not only high in Blue it is also high in Green. Sunlight tint is Above BBL that is based on Incan.

High CRI incandescent is much lower in blue and also lower in green than sunlight. Incan tint is ON the BBL

on this graphic, thanks to maukka, we can see the 3 blue dots above the BBL, that represent sunlight, and the one blue dot on the BBL, far right, for incandescent CCT and Tint. Both incandescent and Sunlight are 100 CRI, but Sunlight is bluer and greener… see what I mean?

both sunlight and incandescent are High CRI, but they are totally different Kelvin Color Temperature, sun being bluer, and have totally different Tint, sun being greener

its much easier to fall asleep after exposure to incandescent, than after exposure to sunlight, due to suppression effect of blue light on melatonin

and yes, yellow and red lights do not attract bugs the way blue light does, but a moth will still fly into a candle flame :wink:

Yes, that's all true, but a bit beside the topic here?

The BBL is only used as a reference for low CCTs.

How do you measure? There is always soms variance between individual LEDs.

Yes, if you take the black body spectrum as the reference, it is always CRI 100 whatever the CCT but the spectrum varies with the temperature.
A CRI100 light can have a lot of blue light with high CCT and zero blue light with very low CCT.
Black body visible spectrum at different CCT :

Using a Sekonic C-800-U. I’ve taken probably over 1,000 measurements of various light sources.

There are some slight variations between LEDs of the same flux and tint bin, mainly CCT and DUV differences but usually not a whole lot and amount of blue light is pretty similar.

you did not marvel at the brilliance of my repartee? lol!

short version

1. more insects are attracted to cool lights that have blue spectrum outputs

example, typical 6000k Cool White LED
.
.

2. less insects are attracted to warm lights, that do not have blue spectrum outputs

example, typical 3000k Warm White LED

you mean less blue spectrum output. Some 3000K I’ve tested have quite bit of blue output.

Thanks
Can you share specific examples of no blue light hazard 3000k w high cri?

Eg How are the 3000k High Cri 219c, 219b, sst, lh351, e21a?

There are no 3000K with no blue light. Even E21A 2000K has some blue in it but it’s less than incandescent bulbs. Here are some of the warm white LED flashlights I’ve tested. I also tested a bunch of LED strips and light bulbs but I have no idea what emitters some of these use so I’m not going to post them.

How about monochromatic LEDs?

Do they have no blue lenght at all? Red is working great in terms of insects but how about green? Amber?

Now I’m curious.

Do we need to really aim for “no blue” or we just need to produce significantly less blue than whatever your neighbors are using?

Say, my neighbors are using 70 CRI 6500k light while I’m using 90 CRI 5000k. How much less insects I would attract compared to the neighbors? Assuming both they and I operate the light at the same time.