This would be a different situation where the G forces of the dropped battery dented the button. That can happen by dropping a battery by itself. It’s a little more likely to happen inside a flashlight as the impact angle doesn’t have to be so exact and the coiled spring focuses the pressure on a smaller area. The middle of the button is weaker than the edge.
Obviously… I just told him my experience with dented cells. I stick to the cell size recommendations for all my flashlights.
5 minute 30 second fan cooled with GA cell at 4.1x volts. I make no promises of the accuracy and in fact I don’t think the percentages are accurate but i’m hoping the overall shape is. When I pulled it off the box the SST-20 lights were in the 320-360 lumen range which doesn’t make sense given the percent stated.
I’m curious about the box. What are you talking about?
Integrating shoebox?
I used my old integrating shoe box and my Galaxy S10 with ceilingbounce app. I haven’t really used the app on this phone or the shoe box in a long time so I cant really trust how either of those work.
At the end of the test I stuck them on my own somewhat calibrated DIY sphere just to have a more accurate measurement at the ~5-6 minute mark
The ambient light sensor on the phone might simply be very non-linear.
The camera light meter should be quite accurate, but I don’t know if it’s possible to modify Ceiling Bounce to be able to use that sensor.
That was my thought as well. Should be good enough looking at the end results though
I took this photo and posted it on Reddit, but then I thought you guys might appreciate it too. The TK edition’s purple colour looks really nice!
Really wish that button was available separately. 
Me too!
anyone seen that 18350 tube for this light? any word on when?
As much as I agree and believe the FW3X is soo easy to be modded, this may not be the best place to express this wish.
I previously took the same request directly to Neil and suggest those on BLF who want buttons band together and do the same.
Already emailed Neal about it, yet to hear anything about it.
Really wouldn’t be hard to achieve — A stencil and a bead blaster —- I personally want a biohazzard symbol on mine
I want one like this... 
I just received my FW3C polished, Cree XPL Hi 3D and it does not work. It sure looks and feels nice though. I ordered it through Neal’s site.
I have read this entire thread.
I only get the flash when the battery initially makes contact. I have tried several different unprotected 18650s that are all at a little over 4 volts. They work fine in other lights.
It has a brass driver retaining ring and a black switch retaining ring.
I tried loosening the driver retaining ring to make sure the driver was centered. I also tried it without the ring installed.
The solder joints on the MCPCB look fine.
I held a battery to the head and completed the circuit with a piece of wire and still only got the initial flash.
Is there anything else I should try?
I sure hope I do not have to send it back to China.
I was going to order a FW3T with the same emitters, if I liked the tint of the XPL Hi 3D. I am now going to hold off until I get this straightened out.
I have not reached out to Neal yet. I will do that shortly.
take off the head and tail. You will see a circular copper contact point on each, wipe those points and the springs with a swab dipped in alcohol. Problem should be solved,
You are getting the initial flash when the battery makes contact. This means the driver is powered and the LED works.
But when you press the button nothing happens. The switch connection via the inner-tube isn’t working. Probably the tailcap isn’t on tight enough.
Try this:
- Remove the head.
- Partially unscrew the tailcap, then screw it together as tightly as you can.
- insert battery
- screw on head.
Also wipe both ends of the tube.
Remove the clip, sometimes the tail is not screwed all the way down
don’t worry, it will work. They all seem to do this