Concerning #2, Anduril can certainly control the switch light with options like off, dim, bright and blinking. We see this with other side switch lights using the same driver parts and Anduril. I see no reason why Toykeeper would disable this function in Anduril. There is no reason to. I have to assume it is controllable. (Better to assume it’s not controllable, waiting for confirmation)
I don’t know if your prototype can do it, but try this. From Off, do 7 fast clicks and see if the switch light changes. To cycle to the next option, repeat with 7 fast clicks.
Here is the newest Anduril cheat sheet.
You can try the color change as well, but I doubt they installed multi colored LEDs for the switch. 7H means 7 fast clicks and Hold the button on the last click (iirc).
Yes, I did watch the video M4D M4X. Thanks for putting that video together. However, it didn’t cover what the switch light actually did. It looked like it was illuminated.
Sounds like there is still some confusion on exactly how the illuminated switch function works.
Hmmm, I guess they can choose to do it that way. It’s simpler. I know pin 1 on the mcu is unused. I would think it’s capable of a switch light output. Maybe not. I’ll ask Toykeeper if she wrote a version of Anduril for this light.
Yes, there are 2 basic ways to send power to the light. Either constant battery power or a PWM signal from the MCU. I will ask the software writer. It’s possible Lumintop made their own decision.
Until we know for sure, I would assume it stays on all the time that power is connected. (I actually like this because you can easily tell if it’s manually locked out or not) I will report back if I learn anything.
There are pin layouts which allow 3 power channels plus aux leds (and ofc the switch input). For example the ROT66 is 3 channel with FW controlled auxiliaries, as is the FW3A (when upgraded with the lexel aux board) as is the E07 and I presume the PL47 though I don’t have one [yet].
Fwiw I’ll be adding a lexel v2 aux board to my EDC18 controlled by anduril.
We normally don't use the voltage divider circuit for 1S batt configurations but you do need it for 2S or more. So pin #7 is free. Normally it's used for a switch LED or equivalent when you have 3 output channels.
So in theory, they should be able to control the bunny LED.
Unfortunately pin#1 is off limits to us with the typical USB programmers we use. If you get the AVR Dragon kit, you can actually reprogram the chip utilizing pin #1 an an I/O pin. Only one around here I know of with the Dragon is Richard (MtnE).
Ahh, ok - didn't see that til I dnld'ed your JPG file and could zoom in. Yes -- that's how it's wired. Not sure, but maybe she's using it for input to monitor the actual voltage out? This is weird/new to me. I think R4 is a 0 ohm resistor? If so, only the cap is having some sort of effect. I'm sure she's posted something somewhere on this, just don't have the time to search for it, or review the Anduril source code right now.
Ohhh - just thought of it -- maybe this was the trick to read light back in from the main LED for programming/config settings from a cell phone. We were researching this a while back. Actually an EE friend here at work mentioned it to me - LED's are diodes and generate a small current based on light coming in to the LED. I poste dhere on BLF bout it, and at the time TK went with it and did testing/experimentation with it - results, from what I recall, were inconclusive.
There's flashlights on the market (or used to be) that worked like this to custom configure them.