“REVIEW”: Skilhunt M150 – 1 x 14500 / AA – 750 Lumens – Double UI – Magnetic Charging [PIC HEAVY] (Beamshots added = Post#21)

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MascaratumB
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“REVIEW”: Skilhunt M150 – 1 x 14500 / AA – 750 Lumens – Double UI – Magnetic Charging [PIC HEAVY] (Beamshots added = Post#21)

EDIT 1: Post#4 – Videos with User Interface Demonstration

EDIT 2: Post #14 – Summary of User Interface Features

EDIT 3: Post #21 – Beamshots Night Beamshots and Comparison

EDIT 4: Post#25 – Mod Mod: Luxeon V2 5000K

Hi BLF!
This is my review of the Skilhunt M150 flashlight, a small and lightweight AA/14500 flashlight!

The flashlight was sent by Skilhunt for review with no other compensation than the flashlight itself and the accessories! Thanks Skilhunt!
Below you find how the flashlight looks like and my honest and unbiased appreciation!

Here’s the official product page: https://www.skilhunt.com/product/m150-usb-magnetic-rechargeable-flashlight/

And here you find some “introduction” videos by Skilhunt:
Presentation: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g1rXJuZWuZA
User Interface: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5s6cw61sO44
Drop Tests: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m9fdKIo85HA

There is an on-going discussion thread about the Skilhunt UIs here: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/68236

So far I couldn’t find other reviews of this light. When I do, I will add them to this thread.

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GENERAL SPECIFICATIONS
Body Colour: Black
Other colours: Blue (bezel and rings on the e-switch and charging “port”)
Material: Aluminum (Type Ⅲ Anodization, rugged and anti-scratch finishing)
Emitter: Cree XP-L2 (Cool White)
Reflector: Orange Peel (OP)
Lens: Glass AR Coated Lens
Battery: 1 × 14500 Li-Ion (recommended) or 1 x AA / 1 x Ni-MH
Working Voltage: 0.8V – 4.2V
Switch: Side E-Switch
Charging: Magnetic in a side port, through proprietary cable
Max runtime: 50 Days (800mAh 14500 Li-Ion) / 55 Days (2450mAh Ni-MH)
Max beam distance: 110 meters / 61 meters
Max output: 750 lumens / 240 lumens
Candela: 3000cd / 930cd
Waterproofness: IPX-8
Impact resistance: 1 m (well, you can see in the videos that it held higher drops Silly )
Low Voltage Warning: YES (to be described below)
Reverse Polarity Protection: YES

Others (specified on the User Manual or the product online page)
- Intelligent temperature control technology
- High efficiency driver circuit

Other characteristics will be mentioned and/or described below.

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PACKAGE: THE FLASHLIGHT & ACCESSORIES

The Skilhunt M150 arrived in a Skilhunt branded cardboard box, which contains information about the emitter colour in the front and some overall specifications and User Interface diagrams in the back. This box was well protected with foam and tape to prevent damages during shipping.

Inside we find a plastic holder for the M150 flashlight and below there is a paper holder for the accessories. The overall package includes: Skilhunt M150, 1 Skilhunt branded 800mAh – 3.6V – 2.88Wh – 14500 Li-Ion battery, user manual, 2 o-rings, pocket Clip, Skilhunt branded lanyard, magnetic charging cable.

THE FASHLIGHT
Let’s see the flashlight!
This thing is small and lightweight! Besides this, it is a good looking flashlight, with an “Olight” touch, mainly due to the blue bezel and the blue rings around the switch and the charging port.

The flashlight is composed by 3 parts (head, battery tube and tailcap) but the head & tube are glued, so I couldn’t separate them!

At the first sight we see there is grippy horizontal knurling in the battery tube. It is not the common diamond of pineapple knurling. In the head it has some cooling fins above the switch/charging port. The tailcap also has thin vertical knurling.

In the front, the M150 has the side e-switch covered by a hard plastic cap with a led indicator in its center. Around, there is a blue metal ring; below, the Skilhunt logotype, and above the “HOT” triangle!
In the back, it has a round magnetic charging port, also with a blue metal ring around it! Above, the CE confirmation and below, the flashlight model and the manufacturer website address.

On the top, the head has a blue bezel with 3 grooves. Below, an AR Coated lens, a Orange Peel aluminium reflector, an o-ring at the side if the reflector and a white 3535 gasket to help the reflector sitting around the XP-L2 Cool White emitter.

The LED sits on a specific Skilhunt MCPCB that is probably copper with 1.2-1.5 mm thickness. I didn’t take it out so I cannot confirm this. Also, I can’t confirm the diameter.

A Led “special macro” Wink

In the battery tube, outside we see that it has the horizontal knurling and also 2 grooves for the pocket clip. It can be said, then, that the clip can be reversed, allowing the head to be upwards or downwards (or front / back, depending on the position we fixate it!). Inside the tube there is a yellow sticker indicating the correct polarity of the batteries. In the end of the tube, we can see the driver, which has no spring, only a slightly protruding brass button and something I cannot specify on its side.

Threads arrived well lubbed and there is an o-ring to prevent water infiltration between the tube and the tailcap. The egde of the tube is non-anodized, what allows physical lock-out!

On the bottom, there is a magnetic tailcap. Inside it has a thick spring above a strong round neodymium magnet. The tailcap has 2 holes to insert a lanyard. It is flat so it allows tailstanding!
The magnetic tailcap is quite strong and it “glues” to almost every possible metallic surface. Skilhunt advises to use a rubber cap/pad if using the flashlight in the pocket along with magnetic bank cards, cellphone or other damageable materials.



DIMENSIONS & WEIGHT
Lightweight, as I said Silly

And short and slim-ish! Wink

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ACCESSORIES

Lanyard
The lanyard in this package is a Skilhunt branded lanyard with a wrist adjuster. It is black with light blue letters. It came with a thin blue thread on the tip to help passing the thinner thread into the tailcap holes.

Battery
The battery included in this pack is a Skilhunt branded 800mAh – 3.6V – 2.88Wh – 14500 Li-Ion battery. It is a button top protected battery for high drain device and it is stated as 2A max continuous discharge. I didn’t do any test on this. I can only say it arrived with about 3.75V.

There was a plastic pad between the negative pole and the spring to avoid discharging or accidental activation during shipping.

This battery is longer than my unprotected Sanyo, Efest and Sofirn, but it is shorter than the protected and with USB port Wuben battery. BTW, this is the only battery – from the ones I have – that doesn’t fit nor work in the M150.

In comparison with Ni-MH and AA alkalines, this cell is longer, despite it is slimmer, fitting better than the others in the tube.

Pocket clip
The pocket clip was not in the flashlight when it arrived. It’s shape is similar to the one of the Lumintop Tool AA / Tool 25 and even the DQG Slim Ti. It can be used in both grooves in the battery tube, allowing to use the flashlight in different positions. Contrarily to what I expected, it looks better on this light than on the Tool AA Big Smile

Charging cable
The magnetic charging cable included in this package can be seen as “proprietary” as it is not a common micro USB or USB-C cable. It resembles a bit like some charges from Klarus, Amutorch and, with less comparison, Olight. It as a USB port that can be plugged into a wall charger, powerbank or computer, and has the magnetic part that will fit on the M150 port.
It has 2 LEDs inside: BLUE and RED. RED is for charging, BLUE is for charged or for empty flashlight (no battery inside).

The User Manual states that:
“Rechargeable function only for on 14500 (3.6V / 3.7V) rechargeable lithiu battery!”
This way, I assume that Ni-MH are not rechargeable inside this flashlight!




User Manual
The User Manual is written in 2 languages, English and Chinese. To be honest, Skilhunt may need some help with the English part, despite most of the information can be understood. However, in some parts it gest confuse.

Depsite all the information the UM presents, there is other than only the M150 online official page has. I would like to see that information (that may be seen as publicity by some…) on the manual, as it should be as complete as possible.

The Manual presents the overall Specifications; Operation ( Battery Installation & Replace magnet; Turn ON / OFF & Mode Transfer, Location indicator & Lock-Out Function; Power Indicator and Low Voltage Indications, Charging instructions and notices ), plus User Interface Diagram and Warranty information. (click the photo to enlarge if needed)


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CHARGING PROCESS & VOLTAGE INDICATION

The charging process happens when the magnetic charger is connected to the magnetic port in the side of the flashlight.
When charging the LED on the charger head will be RED; when almost fully charged, it will be BLUE. Please note:
a) the charger LED will turn BLUE before it reaches the 4.2V!
b) according to specs, Ni-MH batteries shall not be charged inside the flashlight!

The Voltage Indication Led is activated during 5 seconds when the flashlight is turned ON. During this period, this is what may happen:
CONSTANT BLUE – Battery between 100%-80%
BLINKING BLUE – Battery between 80%-50%
CONSTANT RED – Battery between 50%-20%
BLINKING RED – Battery below 20%

When the battery is below 3.0V, the indicator LED will flash 3 times every 2 seconds.

NOTE 1: The battery indication works only with 14500 Li-Ion batteries! I tried it with AA Alkalines and Ni-MH and the switch LED doesn’t activate!! So…careful with Ni-MH cells inside! 3.6V/3.7V Li-Ion cells are recommended!

NOTE 2: I didn’t do any test to see at which voltage the blinking BLUE and the REDs activate. When I do, I will post the data.

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USER INTERFACE

The Skilhunt has what can be a called “Double User Interface”, constituted by the Group Mode A and the Group Mode B. I will describe below the operation and composition of each group.
Although it is not simple in the paper, it is simpler when using!

It is also important to say that this flashlight has a mix of “last level memory” and “no memory”.
It has electronic lock-out (despite physical lock-out is also possible).

NOTE: According to Skilhunt schemes for this light, let’s consider that the L/M/H/T with 1 are the higher outputs and those with 2 are the lower.

———————-

Composition Group Mode A :
- 8 output levels: Low 2 – Low 1 / Mid 2 – Mid 1 / High 2 – High 1 / Turbo 2 – Turbo 1
- 3 special modes (S1 – Flash, S2 – Signaling beacon, S3 – Strobe)

Operation:

  • Single click from OFF = turns ON (in the last memorized level)
  • Single click from ON = advances in the memorized output levels in the sequence L > M > H > T > H > M > L
  • Press 0,5s from ON = turns OFF from any mode
  • Press 0,5s from OFF = enters L1 or L2 (depends on the memorized Low level)
  • Double click from ON = alternates between the output (1 or 2) within a given level (L, M, H or T) and memorizes that output level for the cycling sequence.
    • EX: LOW = When in L2 – the lowest mode – double click changes to L1. If after this there is a single click to advance level or if the light is turned OFF, the L1 will be memorized in the cycling sequence for the next time you use the Low level.
  • Double click from OFF = enters Turbo 1 (the highest mode)
    • After being on Turbo 1:
      a) single clicks decreases brightness (From T to L) in the memorized output levels
      b) double click alternates between T1 and T2
  • Triple click from OFF or ON ( any mode) = enters Special modes (S1 – flash)
    • After being on S1:
      a) double clicks alternate between S1 > S2 > S3 > S1…
      b) single click returns to the last regular output level used.
      [ c) 4 clicks also return to the last regular output level used.]

Special modes “description”:
S1 = Flash = short flash each 1s. [blinks maybe in L1 brightness]
S2 = Signaling beacon = blinks every 0.5s [forgive if the times is not accurate; blinks maybe in M1 brightness]
S3 = Strobe = double frequency [blinks in maybe in H2 brightness]

This is how the progression between L2 > L1 > M2 > M1 > H2 > H1 > T2 > T1 > T2 > H1 > H2 > M1 > M2 > L1 > L2 looks like just above the led!

———————-

Composition Group Mode B :
- 5 output levels: Low 1 – Mid 1 – High 2 – High 1 – Turbo 1
- 1 special mode: SOS

Operation:

  • Single click from OFF = turns ON (in the +last memorized level)
  • Single click from ON ( any mode) = turns OFF
  • Press 0,5s from OFF = enters L1 (lowest level in this Group Mode sequence)
  • Press and hold from ON = advances in this group mode sequence L1 > M1 > H2 > H1 > T1 > H1 > H2 > M1 > L1
  • Double click from OFF = enters Turbo 1 (highest level in this Group Mode sequence)
  • Double click from ON = enters SOS

This is how the progression between L1 > M1 > H2 > H1 > T1 > H1 > H2 > M1 > L1 looks like just above the led!

———————-
CHANGE BETWEEN GROUP MODES
From OFF, press the switch continuously for 5 seconds. The light will turn ON on LOW, momentarily, and then it will shut OFF again, and then within 2 seconds it will blink 3 times (while keeping the switch pressed). After these 3 blinks, the Group mode has changed.
This is the same process from A to B or B to A!

———————-

Lock-Out and Location Beacon
This flashlight has electronic lock-out. It is activated in the same way from both Group Modes (A or B).

LOCK: When the flashlight is OFF press & hold 1.5s-2s, the LED will turn ON momentarily and then will turn OFF, locking the light.
UNLOCK: When the flashlight is OFF press & hold 2s-2.5s and the LED will turn ON in the lowest (memorized) level, unlocking the light. The LED stays ON after unlocking.

The location beacon is a very nice feature of this flashlight!!! When it is locked, single click on the switch and it will activate the RED LED under the switch that will flash each second. This allows to locate the light in the dark, and it also allows to check if it is locked or not Wink A single click on the switch will de-activate it, in case you don’t want/need it!
The beacon can also be activated if the switch is pressed for 1.5s while the flashlight is OFF.

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OUTPUT AND RUNTIME

I opted to retrieve this information from the User Manual as it becomes quite difficult to indicate each level runtime.

This seems to be a very regulated and efficient flashlight according to the specs. Having a Low level as low as 0.2 lumens gives this flashlight a big runtime, and having a Lower turbo for 3 minutes on max is also a great thing, taking into account the flashlight body and the type of battery used.

There are obvious differences between 14500 and Ni-MH cells. In case one prefers runtime over lumens this is surely a flashlight to get and to use with Ni-MH!! The only equivalent levels are L2 and L1. In the others, the amount of lumens is multiplied immediately when using a Li-Ion battery!

I didn’t make any heat vs runtime test to check if the 1m or 3m on turbo correspond to that time in reality. When I do, I will post my data.

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SIZE COMPARISON

Here are some photos for size comparison between this flashlight and others of my collection.

AA flashlights
Sofirn SF14 > Convoy T2 > Jaxman E3 > Nitefox ES10K > Nitecore D10 > Amutorch S3 > Lumintop Tool AA V2.0 > Skilhunt M150 > DQG Slim Ti

Side Switch AA flashlights
Sofirn SP10B > Wuben E05 > Skilhunt M150 > Manker E11 (it is shorter but the magnet in the tail makes it taller currently)

My EDC lights
Klarus XT1C > Skilhunt M150 > Acebeam TK16

My Special ones Blushing
RovyVon E300s > FW3A > Skilhunt M150 > Convoy S2+ shorty > Emisar D4 shorty

My “blue collection”
Olight M2R Warrior > Amutorch AX1 > Skilhunt M150 > Convoy S2+ > Sofirn C01 > Olight S1R Baton I > RovyVon A2 > Olight M1t Raider (horizontal)

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BEAMSHOTS

Due to my smartphone camera quality, beamshots in the dark (indoor) are getting harder and harder to do, specially ti portray how the flashlight beam really looks. So, for now, I will only add photos of the beam pattern with a 14500 battery.
Also, I will post some photos with tint comparison between this Skilhunt M150 and other flashlights.

Later I will add night beamshots, if possible comparing 14500 vs Ni-MH vs AA Alkaline.!

BEAM PATTERN
The beam has some greenish tint shift expected in due Cool White XP-L2 LED! It can be noticed in all output levels without exception. Even the Orange Peel reflector can’t disguise it…
On the edges of the spill it can be noticed the blue/purple reflection from the AR coated lens, although it is not very noticeable.
Sequence: L2 > L1 > M2 > M1 > H2 > H1 > T2 > T1

USE AS CANDLE
Having some many modes to chose from makes this light a candidate to use it as a “candle”. I doesn’t have the FW3A effect, but the different brightness levels are surely handy in a power outage situation! Here’s how it looks like with a small diffuser (from Wuben E05).

Sequence: L2 > L1 > M2 > M1 > H2 > H1 > T2 > T1

TINT COMPARISON
WB 4900K / ISO: 100 / Shutter: 1/125s
(Skilhunt M150 on the RIGHT)

Acebeam H20 (XP-L HI U6-4C)

“H-C 348” (Nichia NVSW219BT)

Wuben T70 (XHP70.2)

Klarus XT1C (XP-L HD V6)

FW3A – XP-L HI 3D

Acebeam TK16 (Triple Osram Whit Flat 1)

Lumintop Tool AA V2.0 (XP-L HD)

Manker E11 (XP-L HD Cool White)

Wuben E05 (Luxeon V 4000K)

Sofirn SP10B (XP-L HI U6-3A)

Convoy S2 (Osram White Flat 1)

————————————————————————————————————————
GENERAL IMPRESSION

So, what do I think about this flashlight? My impressions are overall positive, but there are some things I would definitely improve!
But I do consider this a fantastic light for EDC, it has the quality and features for that!!

The Goods:
1 – The size and weight. This is a small flashlight, very lightweight making it good for EDC without being very noticed on the jeans or even in a shirt! It fits well in the hand and not being a tube light, it allows some grip and ergonomics.
I must also mention that due to the head shape, in case you don’t find the switch with the thumb, you’ll find it with the index finger. So, even looking awkward, it really is a nice “feature”.

2 – Overall construction. As seen in the video from Skilhunt and for the period I have this light, it as an elegant but solid construction. Different types of knurling, good matte anodizing, possibility to reverse pocket clip, cooling fins, different design, the blue rings and bezel, all make this flashlight an excellent compromise between looks and functionality!

3 – Precise functioning. Sometimes the switches don’t work as they were supposed, and sometimes there is a discrepancy between specs and activation in reality. Skilhunt made this switch very precise o activate, the timing is as described for the different operation. This is a plus. Also, not taking long times to Turn ON / OFF, even when a “longer” press is required, makes it very useful and pleasant to work with.

4 – Versatile UI. The Double User Interface is a plus that this flashlight brings. Having the possibility to configure the output levels one wants/needs is excellent, specially concerning the lower levels. Also, having a “stable” UI to use if we don’t want to alternate between those “inner” output levels is a good thing. However, as will be addressed below, this may also be very confusing specially because of the way the sequences are established.
I must also mention that the shortcut to the lowest mode (from OFF) and the possibility to advance on the levels’s sequence from there is a very good thing, specially because this flashlight has memory.

5 – Magnetic charge. Ok, this will imply that we need to carry one extra cable to charge this flashlight. BUT, not having to deal with bad silicone covers to protect a charging port is a plus. For those worried with the exposition of the charging port, I used metal tweezers to “short” the charging port, and the only thing that happens is a very short sparkle. The light didn’t shut OFF when doing this. Also, under water there is no concern about this too. I put the flashlight in a glass with water and nothing happened.

6 – Runtime. 55 days on Ni-MH or 50 days on a 14500 battery, if using the Lowest mode is something than must be remarked. This flashlight is very efficient and will probably rival with the Wuben E05 in this aspect. The turbo is not as higher as could be but it offers a very good compromise or output vs runtime. We must be aware that this is a small and thin light that is not capable of handling heat as other more robust lights!

7 – Magnetic tailcap. This is a nice feature that many flashlights already have, but it is always handy. Also, combining this feature with the range of output levels the M150 has is a very good option for a work light of for a bedroom light. Stick it in a metal surface and it’s done. Carefull, however, as the magnet may provoke damage on bank cards or devices that may be damaged due to magnetic influence.

8 – Location Beacon. It is also a plus from this light. I wish the blinking was in a lower luminous level, but it is good to have it. Lock the light, put it in a backpack and activate the indicator beacon! You’ll see where it is when searching for it. (Well, specially in the dark, of course Big Smile )

9 – Lock-out. Having both physical and electronic lock-out is a thing I appreciate, specially due to the possible parasitic drain that this light may have (I didn’t measure yet).

10 – Accessories. Lanyard, pocket clip and battery! Basic but important stuff that I do appreciate. Specially the battery and the pocket clip Big Smile Ehehe

—————/////—————

The “suggestions to improve”:
1 – The User Interface. Above I mentioned that the UI versatility is a plus in the M150 and I confirm. However, the general mode sequence L>M>H>T>H>M>L is not the most “usual”. If only it gave the possibility to come down and the go up in the sequence without having to do it all the way down/up (as in a ramping UI), it would be better. Please do not see this as drawback, but it is indeed a different feature this flashlight has that could be changed. I hope Skilhunt takes in consideration the opinions given on the above mentioned thread about UI.

I do have to say, though, that this UI and this sequence is useful for some situations. When in Turbo, the passage to High is less “visually violent” than if it was as “moonlight” level. The eyes adapt easier in the increase/decrease brightness while in the dark. SO…this is not something I am quite sure it “needs to be changed”.

2 – The LED. Although XP-L2 is a powerful and efficient driver, the Cool White option provokes a huge tint shift that becomes unpleasant at least indoor. I still need to use it outdoor! A Neutral or Warmer LED would be a better choice, without compromising brightness. Also, despite the MCPCB of the M150 is quite good, it will not take some LEDs (ex: Luveon V, that would probably make the beam on this light gorgeous!), Maybe XP-L, Samsung or Luxeon V2 are better choices in case we want to replace the LED.

3 – The User Manual. Despite the information can be understood, the English language could be improved. The important information is passed, although other is also found on the official online page of the M150.

4 – The charging. This is mentioned by the manufacturer: the BLUE Led of the charger will turn ON when the battery is almost charged. However I would prefer it could only turn on in BLUE when the battery is at 4.2V. Of course the difference can be minimal if the battery is not full, but a more precise indication would be appreciated.

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This is it! Later I will try to do some tests (output decrease on Turbo, temperature, parasitic drain), and also some comparison beamshots between Ni-MH, AA Alkaline and 14500. And comparison with other AA lights.

Thank you Skilhunt for sending this flashlight for review Thumbs Up Blushing

For now, feel free to comment or question! Beer

[REVIEWS] AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// SKILHUNT: M150

Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2 /// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)

GIVEAWAY: 1

Edited by: MascaratumB on 09/19/2019 - 18:18
sb56637
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Hmmm, bummer about the cool white tint. It would be a very attractive option for me if it had ~5000k tint.

Budget Light Forum ...where Frugal meets with Flashlight!

MascaratumB
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sb56637 wrote:
Hmmm, bummer about the cool white tint. It would be a very attractive option for me if it had ~5000k tint.

The box has a “box” for Neutral White, but I am not sure if Skilhunt is offering that or not! I don’t remember if on their sales/promotions thread that was addressed or not! Anyway, the 5000K would be much better and probably with less tint shift!
Maybe a XP-L HD can provoke less shift one it has a different composition!

[REVIEWS] AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// SKILHUNT: M150

Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2 /// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)

GIVEAWAY: 1

MascaratumB
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I´ve ulpoaded 2 videos demonstrating the User Interface of this flashlight!

Group Mode A

Group Mode B + Unlock+ Location beacon

[REVIEWS] AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// SKILHUNT: M150

Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2 /// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)

GIVEAWAY: 1

Tally-ho
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Mode sequences in contradiction with skilhunt’s poll results Facepalm

MascaratumB
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Tally-ho wrote:
Mode sequences in contradiction with skilhunt’s poll results Facepalm

Yup! The poll started after they “released” this version! Maybe they want to run a new batch of this light!
It wasn’t the first time a manufacturer released different versions making improvements!

BTW, getting used to it takes a while, but it is not as bad as I thought it would be! Specially because of the “inner” levels! Is like using Bistro lights where you can reverse modes. Only thing…you cannot go back and advance at will, you’ll need to go all the way up or down…

[REVIEWS] AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// SKILHUNT: M150

Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2 /// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)

GIVEAWAY: 1

Tally-ho
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Sorry but bistro is way more convenient, you can go up and down whenever you want = at any mode.
Here you are stuck in an ascending and descending sequence. Is there a time out for the descending sequence ? If you turn off the flashlight while in the descending sequence and turn it on later, are you still in the descending sequence ?

MascaratumB
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Tally-ho wrote:
Sorry but bistro is way more convenient, you can go up and down whenever you want = at any mode. Here you are stuck in an ascending and descending sequence. Is there a time out for the descending sequence ? If you turn off the flashlight while in the descending sequence and turn it on later, are you still in the descending sequence ?

Yes, I agree with you on that, Bistro is more configurable in that option (go up and down at any regular mode mode)!
About timing, there is none for the sequence to change, it is completely memorized. It is like stepless dimming flashlights, if you were going up/down before OFF, it will maintain the same direction.

The “good” thing here is that we can always start from the bottom > up, from the top > down, or from the middle (in this case it will be up or down according to the last direction used)!

I find it versatile due to this, despite I also know that most of the times we are used to have a pre-determined sequence (normally bottom-up) for our use.
But, in any case, and as I mentioned before, the best option would be to have the possibility to ascend/descend in modes at will, like some ramping UIs are using currently!

[REVIEWS] AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// SKILHUNT: M150

Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2 /// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)

GIVEAWAY: 1

Tally-ho
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OK MascaratumB, I better understand how it works now.
It might be more convenient than how I first pictured out to myself with this UI from OFF but at the exception of the sinusoidal cycling when ON. I think that 1 H (press and hold) to go UP and 1 C + 1 H to go DOWN would be less confusing than trying to remember if you are or were in the ascending or descending part of the cycling sequence.
Though, the behaviour of 1C and 1H being different in group mode A and in group mode B will not work with me.

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Tally-ho wrote:
OK MascaratumB, I better understand how it works now. It might be more convenient than how I first pictured out to myself with this UI from OFF but at the exception of the sinusoidal cycling when ON. I think that 1 H (press and hold) to go UP and 1 C + 1 H to go DOWN would be less confusing than trying to remember if you are or were in the ascending or descending part of the cycling sequence.

I get what you say!

Please note that from OFF, with Group Mode B, you have something more or less similar to what you mention but with double click + hold.

Meaning: OFF > Double Click + Hold = Turbo and starts descending in the mode sequence (T1 > H1 > H2 > M1 > L1)
In this group mode you also have the possibility to go from the lowest mode up to the top (0.5s press from OFF for Low and then click & hold to change modes – ascending -, like in an Olight). Single clicks are for ON/OFF .

The Group Mode B is “simpler” than the A one! Only thing I wish it had, instead of “Double click to SOS” was “double click to Turbo”, that can only be accessed from OFF in this group mode.

[REVIEWS] AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// SKILHUNT: M150

Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2 /// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)

GIVEAWAY: 1

MascaratumB
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Tally-ho wrote:
Though, the behaviour of 1C and 1H being different in group mode A and in group mode B will not work with me.

Yes, it does behave differently, but, for me, it will be a matter of choice of what Group Mode will I prefer to use and then stick to it!
B is simpler than A, and the light can then be used with or without memory, “single” mode (single click ON/OFF – this is what lacks in many other lights in this category Oops ) .

If I need a lower low, I will opt for A, but then he UI is more intrincate…

[REVIEWS] AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// SKILHUNT: M150

Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2 /// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)

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LightObsession
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Is the UI similar to the BLF A6?

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MascaratumB, You've definitely got your format of review fine tuned! Comprehensive, thorough, abundantly illustrative! In short, thank you for the review!

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LightObsession wrote:
Is the UI similar to the BLF A6?

No LightObsession! The reference above to bistro UI was only a small comparison, but the UI on these lights is not similar!

This is BLF A6! Please go to this thread for more information: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/54621

And this is Skihunt M150 UI, from the user Manual:

Here is the description I’ve made:

Quote:
USER INTERFACE

The Skilhunt has what can be a called “Double User Interface”, constituted by the Group Mode A and the Group Mode B. I will describe below the operation and composition of each group.
Although it is not simple in the paper, it is simpler when using!

It is also important to say that this flashlight has a mix of “last level memory” and “no memory”.
It has electronic lock-out (despite physical lock-out is also possible).

NOTE: According to Skilhunt schemes for this light, let’s consider that the L/M/H/T with 1 are the higher outputs and those with 2 are the lower.

———————-

Composition Group Mode A :
- 8 output levels: Low 2 – Low 1 / Mid 2 – Mid 1 / High 2 – High 1 / Turbo 2 – Turbo 1
- 3 special modes (S1 – Flash, S2 – Signaling beacon, S3 – Strobe)

Operation:

  • Single click from OFF = turns ON (in the last memorized level)
  • Single click from ON = advances in the memorized output levels in the sequence L > M > H > T > H > M > L
  • Press 0,5s from ON = turns OFF from any mode
  • Press 0,5s from OFF = enters L1 or L2 (depends on the memorized Low level)
  • Double click from ON = alternates between the output (1 or 2) within a given level (L, M, H or T) and memorizes that output level for the cycling sequence.
    • EX: LOW = When in L2 – the lowest mode – double click changes to L1. If after this there is a single click to advance level or if the light is turned OFF, the L1 will be memorized in the cycling sequence for the next time you use the Low level.
  • Double click from OFF = enters Turbo 1 (the highest mode)
    • After being on Turbo 1:
      a) single clicks decreases brightness (From T to L) in the memorized output levels
      b) double click alternates between T1 and T2
  • Triple click from OFF or ON ( any mode) = enters Special modes (S1 – flash)
    • After being on S1:
      a) double clicks alternate between S1 > S2 > S3 > S1…
      b) single click returns to the last regular output level used.
      [ c) 4 clicks also return to the last regular output level used.]

Special modes “description”:
S1 = Flash = short flash each 1s. [blinks maybe in L1 brightness]
S2 = Signaling beacon = blinks every 0.5s [forgive if the times is not accurate; blinks maybe in M1 brightness]
S3 = Strobe = double frequency [blinks in maybe in H2 brightness]

This is how the progression between L2 > L1 > M2 > M1 > H2 > H1 > T2 > T1 > T2 > H1 > H2 > M1 > M2 > L1 > L2 looks like just above the led!

———————-

Composition Group Mode B :
- 5 output levels: Low 1 – Mid 1 – High 2 – High 1 – Turbo 1
- 1 special mode: SOS

Operation:

  • Single click from OFF = turns ON (in the +last memorized level)
  • Single click from ON ( any mode) = turns OFF
  • Press 0,5s from OFF = enters L1 (lowest level in this Group Mode sequence)
  • Press and hold from ON = advances in this group mode sequence L1 > M1 > H2 > H1 > T1 > H1 > H2 > M1 > L1
  • Double click from OFF = enters Turbo 1 (highest level in this Group Mode sequence)
  • Double click from ON = enters SOS

This is how the progression between L1 > M1 > H2 > H1 > T1 > H1 > H2 > M1 > L1 looks like just above the led!

———————-
CHANGE BETWEEN GROUP MODES
From OFF, press the switch continuously for 5 seconds. The light will turn ON on LOW, momentarily, and then it will shut OFF again, and then within 2 seconds it will blink 3 times (while keeping the switch pressed). After these 3 blinks, the Group mode has changed.
This is the same process from A to B or B to A!

———————-

Lock-Out and Location Beacon
This flashlight has electronic lock-out. It is activated in the same way from both Group Modes (A or B).

LOCK: When the flashlight is OFF press & hold 1.5s-2s, the LED will turn ON momentarily and then will turn OFF, locking the light.
UNLOCK: When the flashlight is OFF press & hold 2s-2.5s and the LED will turn ON in the lowest (memorized) level, unlocking the light. The LED stays ON after unlocking.

The location beacon is a very nice feature of this flashlight!!! When it is locked, single click on the switch and it will activate the RED LED under the switch that will flash each second. This allows to locate the light in the dark, and it also allows to check if it is locked or not Wink A single click on the switch will de-activate it, in case you don’t want/need it!
The beacon can also be activated if the switch is pressed for 1.5s while the flashlight is OFF.

And here are 2 videos demonstrating the User Interface of this flashlight!

Group Mode A

Group Mode B + Unlock+ Location beacon

Nachtfeuerzeug wrote:

MascaratumB, You’ve definitely got your format of review fine tuned! Comprehensive, thorough, abundantly illustrative! In short, thank you for the review!

Thank you Nachtfeuerzeug Blushing I do the best I can and that I know honestly!

Some things are still missing (night beamshots and some “tests”) but I’ve been busy with other stuff! As soon as I can I will post those!
Thanks for reading!! Beer

[REVIEWS] AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// SKILHUNT: M150

Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2 /// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)

GIVEAWAY: 1

Ryzbor
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So much wasted potential in this light : /

virence.com rosy 3500K R9080 Wizard Pro

MascaratumB
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Ryzbor wrote:
So much wasted potential in this light : /

Is that because of the UI and the emitter, or other aspects?

I guess there is no single light that will “fill the measures” for all of us!
Look at the FW3A, the D4 and many other lights beinge released! They all “lack” something and they are superb lights ‘per se’…

Only thing we can hope is for Skilhunt – as other manufacturers – to listen to the community to improve their lights…

[REVIEWS] AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// SKILHUNT: M150

Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2 /// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)

GIVEAWAY: 1

Ryzbor
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  • It could be made smaller, including the diameter, by not having magnetic charging. Plus I’m pretty sure they price they ad for it is higher than a decent quality lightweight charger.
  • XP-L2 CW and OP is obviously a bad choice, XM-L2/XP-L HI 5D/3A or Luxeon V would be a much better choice, especially with a TIR or diffused lens.
  • It’s not modable I geuss (not 100% sure)
  • SOS is pretty dam useless

I tried to talk them into using blue locklite for the threads of the head in their Skilhunt H03, which is easily removable my a modder and impossible by a random, instead of red loclite which is a PITA to remove, but I didn’t feel they did understand the issue I was referring to.

BTW great review Thumbs Up

virence.com rosy 3500K R9080 Wizard Pro

MascaratumB
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Sorry for the late reply Ryzbor!
And thanks for detailing your points!

Ryzbor wrote:
* It could be made smaller, including the diameter, by not having magnetic charging. Plus I’m pretty sure they price they ad for it is higher than a decent quality lightweight charger.

Hum, comparing it with the other side switch AAs, it is pretty small! The Manker E11 is smaller, but it doesn’t have magnetic tail. Sofirn SP10A/B is already a small light but this one is still smaller than it! About the diameter, of course, without the magnetic charger it will take more space! Unless it it was charged through the tail, Olight style, I guess this is the “possible size” for a light like this ! Untill a smaller one appears with the same specs Big Smile

Ryzbor wrote:
* XP-L2 CW and OP is obviously a bad choice, XM-L2/XP-L HI 5D/3A or Luxeon V would be a much better choice, especially with a TIR or diffused lens.

Agree! NW or WW would be tremendous! After I take my night beamshots, I will put a Luxeon V2 5000K to see how it looks like and will report Wink
The diffusing can be made through some plastic sheet like DC-fix or others! I will try that when I mod it Wink

Ryzbor wrote:
* It’s not modable I geuss (not 100% sure)

The LED is “changeable”. The driver, not so much!
Ryzbor wrote:
* SOS is pretty dam useless

I will probably agree. Even if it can be handy, it would not be needed. And even if I’m not a strobe fan, I’d rather have the strobe or flash only!

Ryzbor wrote:
I tried to talk them into using blue locklite for the threads of the head in their Skilhunt H03, which is easily removable my a modder and impossible by a random, instead of red loclite which is a PITA to remove, but I didn’t feel they did understand the issue I was referring to.

I saw their answer on the Skilhunt thread and I do understand their point about this. Skilhunt is not necessarily Sofirn, Convoy or Jaxman. They have a different range of products and a different relationship with the market, meaning probably many customers that are not “enthusiasts”. Therefore, they probably prefer to give them a “reliable” and verified product instead of something that can be modded/damaged more easily! It would be like saying to Olight “don’t glue your heads”…

At least here, on this M150, one can change the LED and the reflector/lens…

Ryzbor wrote:
BTW great review Thumbs Up

Thank you Big Smile

[REVIEWS] AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// SKILHUNT: M150

Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2 /// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)

GIVEAWAY: 1

MascaratumB
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Adding some more reviews here and on the web:

*Narmattaru – http://budgetlightforum.com/node/68745

*Lumeniac (Narmattaru) – https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ksulx1VHxpM

*Review or How it works – https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t5Ll11kx7Rg

*zeroair – https://zeroair.org/2019/08/28/skilhunt-m150-flashlight-review/

[REVIEWS] AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// SKILHUNT: M150

Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2 /// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)

GIVEAWAY: 1

varbos
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Looks pretty good. For some reason I thought it was bigger – maybe I misread the spec sheet. Relatively speaking the size looks fine for 14500.

For me the CW is a deal-breaker. And the sinewave UI is a dealbreaker. Both are easily fixed so maybe I revisit it in the future to check if Skilhunt make a revision.

MascaratumB
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So, today I am adding some (delayed) beamshots, showing how the Skilhunt M150 behaves outdoor and indoor too!

I opted to show mostly the different levels (from the lowest level to the highest) instead of showing the 5 preset levels on the group mode 2.

I also compared it with some of my other AA/14500 flashlights.
I only used 14500 cells in these beamshots. With AA alkalines or Ni-MH rechargeable cells, the outputs will be different, namely giving lower distance range on the higher output levels.

Enjoy Smile

First the evolution through the 8 levels: indoor vs outdoor!!


Tint Comparison:
Left to Right
Wuben E05 (Luxeon V) > Sofirn SP10A (XP-G2) > Skilhunt M150 (XP-L) > Manker E11 (XP-L) > Lumintop Tool AA V2.0 (XP-L)

Wuben E05 > Skilhunt M150 > Lumintop Tool AA V2.0 /////// Sofirn SP10A > Skilhunt M150 > Manker E11

Skilhunt M150 vs Wuben E05 > Manker E11 > Lumintop Tool AA V2.0 > Sofirn SP10A

And some beauty photos! And others Big Smile


[REVIEWS] AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// SKILHUNT: M150

Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2 /// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)

GIVEAWAY: 1

samyy
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Thanx for lot of pics!

The light itself is great, the UI is acceptable, but the tint….is uglyyyy.

MascaratumB
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samyy wrote:
Thanx for lot of pics!

The light itself is great, the UI is acceptable, but the tint….is uglyyyy.

Yup, specially if you compare it to this one Wink

[REVIEWS] AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// SKILHUNT: M150

Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2 /// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)

GIVEAWAY: 1

samyy
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Thats nice!

I bought few XPLs and XML2s in 3000K and itstalled them in some of my lights. And immediately became the big fan of the warm tint. So the cold white tint of the M150 is like nightmare to me… Facepalm Big Smile

MascaratumB
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So, after some delay, I finally got to mod the Skilhunt M150.
I took out the Cool White XP-L HD emitter and put a Luxeon V2 5000K bought a while ago from Led4Power.

You’ll see the difference below Shocked Love

BTW, I also measured the PCB. I was a bit disappointed, as I thought it was thicker. NO! Also, it didn’t have any kind of thermal paste below! Ok that this is not a hot rod, but still, it should have some. So, so besides replacing the LED, I also put some thermal paste!

BEFORE [XP-L HD Cool White] >>>> AFTER Luxeon V2 5000K

Comparisons with Luxeon V 4000K (under a TIR, on the right)

Luxeon V2 5000K vs Luxeon V 4000K (with SMO reflector)

CONCLUSIONs:

This is my first light with a Luxeon V2 5000K!
And I love it! Love
And it is so much better than a CW LED in this flashlight!
And if it is not completely perfect, it is much more pleasant than a XP-L HD CW emitter!

Skilhunt, if you are reading this, please consider offering this light with Neutral White emitter!!!
The lumens may be lower, but it will be much better and more pleasant!!!
Also, altough I am getting used to this UI, consider the suggestions given in the Poll you organized! Wink

BTW, the mod is not difficult! You just need to reflow an LED on the PCB so that it works well and solder it again! Thumbs Up

[REVIEWS] AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// SKILHUNT: M150

Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2 /// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)

GIVEAWAY: 1

Henk4U2
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Thank you for a very elaborate review.
There is one remaining question. IMHO bezels are made to protect and serve.
That nice blue bezel, is it made of (stainless?) steel, or just colored aluminum.

You are a flashaholic if you are forced to come out of the closet, to make room for more flashlights.

MascaratumB
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Henk4U2 wrote:
Thank you for a very elaborate review.
There is one remaining question. IMHO bezels are made to protect and serve.
That nice blue bezel, is it made of (stainless?) steel, or just colored aluminum.

Thank you Henk4U2 !!
Well, I cannot answer that clearly due to my lack of knowledge , but I will try give the tips to ascertain that:
- it is lightweight (well, it is thin, and has a hole, so… Silly )
- it is not magnetic
- if it is “painted” it doesn’t scratch easily (meaning, it is not easy to make it look “bare metal”)
- in the interior part of the bezel, where it sits on the head, it also has a purplish look, like if it was heat treated

From these specificities, can we draw a conclusion?
I really don’t know if it is SS or ALU; but if SS is not magnetic, I would say this is SS bezel, maybe…

[REVIEWS] AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// SKILHUNT: M150

Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2 /// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)

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Yokiamy
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According Skilhunt its a PVD coated SS bezel ( Physical Vapour Deposition )

Budget Light Forum ...where Frugal meets with Flashlight!

 

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Thank you guys!! While my wallet softly weeps.

I asked because unlike a lot of people people believe:
- SS is not always magnetic
- SS does not always have to be “shiny”.

You are a flashaholic if you are forced to come out of the closet, to make room for more flashlights.

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Yokiamy wrote:
According Skilhunt its a PVD coated SS bezel ( Physical Vapour Deposition )

Well, I’m not lying if I say that I don’t know what’s that, but it surely looks a fancy thing to be done! Big Smile

And it actually looks great on the bezel Wink It’s a classy touch !!!

Henk4U2 wrote:
Thank you guys!! While my wallet softly weeps.

I asked because unlike a lot of people people believe:
- SS is not always magnetic
- SS does not always have to be “shiny”.

Thanks for the clarification Henk4U2!
That was what I thought but couldn’t be 100% sure, so thanks!!

As I mentioned in the “What did you mod today thread” I started using this light yesterday after the led replacement!
After having it on the “coin pocket” in my shorts for almost 6hours, it suddenly turned ON in the pocket!
I didn’t lock the light as I wanted to perceive in what conditions I should carry it to prevent the activation! Despite my efforts it turned ON.

But, it took 6 hours and it had a Vicks inhaler and a knife at its side that may have done some pressure in some position I made sitting or standing.

The awkward thing was…I was in a meeting with my boss when I felt it warm in my pocket Big Smile

Embarrasing Silly Well now I will carry it locked or with the tailcap slightly twisted !!

[REVIEWS] AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// SKILHUNT: M150

Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2 /// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)

GIVEAWAY: 1