XPL HI is already dedomed. You’re looking for 1A tint. KD sells them. Shipping to the UK takes a few weeks though.
Thanks for that .
Only thing wrong with wanting it cheaper is the wait.
I use the helping hands to hold the mcpcb. https://www.harborfreight.com/helping-hands-60501.html?
It takes the hot air a minute or so to heat up to temp. I use this ramping heat to bring the mcpcb to temp, rather than waiting for the hot air to reach set temp then heating.
I use leaded solder paste. SMD291AX50T3 Chip Quik Inc. | Soldering, Desoldering, Rework Products | DigiKey
The solder paste already has flux in it, apply and heat slowly until it melts.
Thanks, ordered the XPLs from KD, and paste, and one of those flexy 6 leg with illuminated magnifying glass and fan.
https://bga-reworking.co.uk/product/insat-sn63pb37-leaded-solder-paste-30g-melting-point-183-c/
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33052553994.html?spm=a2g0s.8937460.0.0.233f2e0ev1mtHX
Just got my second Uyue 946-1010 hot plate. This one is definitely 110v and it works great. Got up to 220C in a few minutes no problem. Fantastic!
That is Great to hear, congrats and thanks for following up.
I love my 10x10 too!
I’ve had great results so far, set to 200C
I ordered the UYue 10x10 and some solder paste
I made 2 successful led swaps in one go. It looks complicated but I can’t believe how easy peasy it was after following the advice here.
Astrolux A01 Nichia 219b SW30k (trailhunter) and Glaree E03 STT20 4000K FD4 (BlueSwordM)
My UYue looked dirty/used and had minor scatches on the surface and I was afraid it was DOA because it initially emitted fumes at 170c+ but it quit doing that and functions just fine after I let it cool and ran it again. The biggest struggle was trying to line up and resolder the tiny wires back on the mcpcb of the E03. 
Thanks guys. I can’t wait to do more. 
congratulations!
outstanding photos too 
Mark I ordered a stencil withe the reduced pad size for my 3x XPL 32mm board frames, I am eager to try this. I have been using a stencil for my XML boards in the same size, but sometimes I think the paste does not spread perfectly in the large center pad. It seems like maybe running a thin strip of stencil metal right through the center long ways might fix it, but I am wondering if that would reduce the solder too much… What you would recommended for XML size tipples?
Always used Butane Torch with thin flame,easy and fast.
But this other method can work?
That's harsh and has 0 temperature control. And it is important to minimize thermal stress on the emitters.
I begin to try this method with cheaps single LB Leds.
Also solder and desolder the same many times and worked good
Never have burned one or damaged.
Only few second with thin flame under pad without toast Led for minutes.
Stop immediately when soldering start melting,small tap on top to remove excess solder with cotton fiock
But maybe this isn’t orthodox way for multi emitter pads
I use to use a lighter to do my reflows back when reflowing became a modding thing.
A flame is not the best method for reflowing but with a enough practice and a understanding of the heating process that’s laid out in most reflowing datasheets it can work decently. Even using a hot air station requires a little practice of the heat setting and just how far away to hold the tip from the mcpcb. When reflow paste begans to start heating up it out gases, this can sometimes cause components to jump or slide around out of placement. Its like a tiny bubble bursting under the led or components causing them to move. Its best to heat slowly with a slightly increasing temp letting the gases vaporize instead of bubbling. As the heat climbs slowly to the melting point the led should jump into its pads location. I tap the top of the led with a sharpie to release excess solder as vestureofblood does (thanks for the tip by the way). A sharpie has a cupped bottom to it.
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As a practice test you can use a old mcpcb and apply some solder paste. Slowly heating with your source watching to see how it reacts. Different solder paste will react differently so I find it best to test and see how it does first before using it. This should help to figure out if your heating to quickly or to slowly or if you need to adjust the temp. You want the temp to just reach melting point and plateau until the led is seated, then remove the heat.
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Heat slowly, slowly reach melting point and when its reflowed remove the heat and blow on it or let it cool on its on. I think its better to blow on the mcpcb a little getting the temp down quicker than just letting it set. Less time the led see’s under the high temps the better. Just holding a flame under the mcpcb until it melts is quite harse as Barkuti pointed out. By the time the solder melts you have already over shot the melting point quite a bit.
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I do realize that not everyone has or needs a hotplate or a reflow oven even though that’s the best methods. The frying pan method is good also as long as your trying to follow to the datasheets suggestions. I think it’s more important in the stragey your heating for reflow than the actual heat source. The difference being some heat sources make it easier with less guess work. Just my opinion I guess.
thanks all for suggestions,
For occasional jobs, work with what little you have,
increase creativy and can get good results with the experience.
I apply wire SN60/40PB on mbpcb layers with Iron
for what I read less you put better is.
Tin alloys have average thermal transfert,is that critical?
I would try use Indium for high power Leds.
Everyone does it his/her own way. Personally I use my induction stove with a frying pan, aiding myself with an infrared thermometer to monitor temperature. I use moderate, controlled stove power to emulate the pre-heating, soaking and etc. phases of reflow soldering, and take my time once the solder paste melts to achieve well centered and as flat as possible led (or whatever components) reflows, while peeking with my IR gun once in a while to make sure the temperature is right. Due to habit, though, I can feel the temperature in my bare hands while using toothpic and cotton swab and intutively know if it is right (toothpic and cotton swab :-D are my main reflow tools). 
I’ve had good luck with an electric griddle that is no longer used in my house. It heats up slowly, gets hot enough to reflow, and cools down slowly. And as a additional benefit, it smells like pancakes when reflowing!
I also have used the frying pan method on an electric burner cook top.
Just wanted to say thanks to VOB for the video and everyone else for their comments. I learned reflowing through this thread. I use an electric burner, a cheap pan, and a IR thermometer. Like Barkuti cotton swabs and toothpicks are my main tools. I’ve reflowed about 20 LEDs and soldered a few S2+ spacers to pills so far and never had an issue.
Here’s a link to the electric burner I got. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007QCRNU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_BfUpEb57KE933
It works fairly well.
Something that might help is marking the dial position at exactly where your solder melts.
I use a old heated lab stirrer, it has dials, one for heat and one for stirring speed. I just use the heat obviously.
Testing it first does take some time finding out exactly where your particular solder (solder paste) melts at. Starting out low and letting the heat stabilize, if it doesn’t melt, turn the dial a little further. Repeat until it melts. Take your time letting the heat soak each increase on the dial. But once you find it, mark it and use that marked setting for precise heating every time. 
Here's a nice tip for those of you who would like their MCPCBs to look clean, derusted: a little while after turning off the heat source once your reflow is finished, well below solder melting point but still while the MCPCB is fairly hot, add a few drops of homemade rosin flux in isopropyl or denatured alcohol over it. Once cold you'll be able to unstuck the board from the pan with alcohol if you went overboard with the rosin flux.