Emisar D4S review

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Earpuller
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Man Without Shadow, thanks for the info yes I grabbed the latest Anduril build for the D4S when I flashed my light a couple of days a go. Really loving Anduril. I’ll start tinkering with the ramp settings for the beacon mode and other settings its good to know there is a reset function built into the firmware.

brightnorm
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g_damian wrote:
Agro wrote:
brightnorm wrote:
Impressive! Thanks for the link. I don’t see any mention of Osrams. Since there don’t appear to be any emitters between 5000K and 6500K, I thought that maybe combining two 5000s and two 6500s might be ideal.
KW CSLPM1.TG is cool only.

Can be reflowed with CSLPM1.TG 5400K

Thanks

brightnorm

bquinlan
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twisted raven wrote:
but no stainless bezel?

There is now a stainless steel bezel for the D4S. It’s available as an add-on for the D4S entry on Hank’s site.

oto
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Today I tried to flash Anduril to D4S but failed for a while. As I was typing this cry for help I tried one last time and finally succeeded.
When I ran the flashing command the flashlight emitter leds began blinking rapidly. Was it supposed to do this?
I got to about 30% done and then got a bunch of

avrdude: error: wrong responds size
avrdude: error: usbasp_transmit:
avrdude: error: wrong responds size
avrdude: error: usbasp_transmit:
avrdude: error: wrong responds size
avrdude: error: usbasp_transmit:

Tried several times, double checked everything, pushed/moved connectors to get better connection. And when I was ready to give up – finally success!
Was it bad connection? Maybe flashing pins went in too deep and short circuited something?

brewster
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oto wrote:
Today I tried to flash Anduril to D4S but failed for a while. As I was typing this cry for help I tried one last time and finally succeeded. When I ran the flashing command the flashlight emitter leds began blinking rapidly. Was it supposed to do this?

Yes.

oto wrote:
Tried several times, double checked everything, pushed/moved connectors to get better connection. And when I was ready to give up – finally success! Was it bad connection? Maybe flashing pins went in too deep and short circuited something.

Yes, I’d say the tip wires touched something. Those long bare copper tips you have there can go in too deep. Better to leave on some insulation or use very short bare tips, so as to limit the depth to just enought to make contact and hold the wires in place.

Tip: I found it better to use longer Dupont connectors to give more flexibility to the cabling, and to tape the wires to the head to prevent unwanted movement during flashing.

Earpuller
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Does anyone know of a good bike mount that will fit the D4S? also, anyone have a link to the Rampingios V3 hex file?

Had a play with the blinky modes last light and I really love lightening storm mode. Anduril is an outstanding bit of firmware.

wkweksl
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The D4S v2 with the aux led option.

The flashing pads are now similar to that of D4v2.

brewster
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wkweksl wrote:
The D4S v2 with the aux led option.

The flashing pads are now similar to that of D4v2.

Except there are now two vias, one at each end of the row of four pads. This is an improvement over the D4V2, and will help to locate the pogo pins with much less fiddling around for those with less than perfect eyesight.

hodor
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Curious, what are the pros of pads vs vias? I liked vias as I could simply insert wire/cables into the holes. Now I need to buy a pogo pin adapter.

SammysHP
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They are smaller and single sided. This makes the PCB layout easier and sometimes even possible.

Anthon
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I really hope the D4S brings a new option for 21700 cell tube

DB Custom
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Why 21700? There are 26650’s that perform very close to a 30T at 50% higher capacity.

PBWilson
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With most of the gadgets and accessories and tools I buy, I look for ones that have flexibility in mind, whether it’s in how many jobs it can do or if it can work or survive in a pinch with a different add-on. I like flashlights that can use a few different cells or combinations depending on what I have at hand. I think it’s a relatively common mindset.

My only issue with 26650 and 21700 compatability is the springs. Will a shorter cell rattle? Will a longer cell crush?

mattlward
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I am looking to order the D4SV2 above, but do not see it listed on the site… Is it not on the new site?

EDC rotation:
FW1A, LH351D 4000k (second favorite)
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (favorite light!)
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k
S2+, XM-L2 T6 4C

wolfstyle
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mattlward wrote:
I am looking to order the D4SV2 above, but do not see it listed on the site… Is it not on the new site?

D4SV2 is not a separate item. Go to the D4S and under the UI selection you can select Anduril with the RGB Aux LEDs.

mattlward
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I must be dense… I see only the selection of one color of aux led.

EDC rotation:
FW1A, LH351D 4000k (second favorite)
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (favorite light!)
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k
S2+, XM-L2 T6 4C

puglife2
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wkweksl wrote:
The D4S v2 with the aux led option.

The flashing pads are now similar to that of D4v2.

no amber color?

Anthon
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DB Custom wrote:
Why 21700? There are 26650’s that perform very close to a 30T at 50% higher capacity.

because they are smaller and lighter, better for EDC while still having great capacity

wkweksl
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mattlward wrote:
I must be dense… I see only the selection of one color of aux led.

The aux led is under the UI option as mentioned by wolfstyle
wkweksl
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puglife2 wrote:

no amber color?

Nope, amber option is limited to single colour only
DB Custom
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I’ll have to weigh some… the 21700’s are 5mm narrower but also 5mm longer so the size issue should very nearly be a wash…

Edit: An 4500mAh 26650 Golisi Gold is barely a half ounce heavier than a 3000mAh Samsung 30T, so I really can’t see weight being a problem. True, the 26650 is almost a quarter of an inch wider, but it’s also the same measure shorter. So again, the differences are so small as to be very nearly unrecognizable. If you are so close to failure at carrying weight that a mere 1/2 oz could make or break you, then the problems you face are much larger than which battery selection to choose.

I understand that carrying a wider light, even less than a quarter inch wider, in silk suit pants might well be problematic, but then, anything of any comparable size would also be an issue. At which point, pocket carry would have to be dismissed and a belt carrier figured out. This light offers unparalleled output for it’s size, and it does that by using a readily available 26650 format. Granted, the 21700 is making inroads towards popularity in Li-ion cell choices but still it’s availability is much more limited than the 26650.

A neck light may well be of consideration if carrying a flashlight is problematic. Output and run time will suffer, but then, that’s what compromise is made of…

Anthon
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DB Custom wrote:
I’ll have to weigh some… the 21700’s are 5mm narrower but also 5mm longer so the size issue should very nearly be a wash…

E07 is more EDC friendly than D4S and they have the same head diameter

But apart from the size, I sold all my 26650 lights and cells, I’m only keeping the ones that also accept 21700, I’m done with having a lot of battery sizes

Helios azimuth
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Anthon wrote:
DB Custom wrote:
I’ll have to weigh some… the 21700’s are 5mm narrower but also 5mm longer so the size issue should very nearly be a wash…

E07 is more EDC friendly than D4S and they have the same head diameter

But apart from the size, I sold all my 26650 lights and cells, I’m only keeping the ones that also accept 21700, I’m done with having a lot of battery sizes

It depends upon each person’s needs and how they use the light. In my case the 26650’s would be the last ones I would sell. Each to his own.

DB Custom
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If I calculated this correctly, the 21700 cell is 83.36% of the 26650, yet the 26650 has 50% more capacity. So the 26650 is much more efficient for the capacity it holds vs it’s size. I probably missed something somewhere, usually do. Wink

amishbill
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wolfstyle wrote:
mattlward wrote:
I am looking to order the D4SV2 above, but do not see it listed on the site… Is it not on the new site?

D4SV2 is not a separate item. Go to the D4S and under the UI selection you can select Anduril with the RGB Aux LEDs.


Close, but not what I’m seeing.
Dropdown 1 – choose body color
Dropdown 2 – “IOS V3 UI” /or/ “Anduril UI (the same aux LED function as the D4v2) +$1.99”
Dropdown 3 – LED selection

Then some checkboxes for Aux LED colors.

Nothing here says the checkboxes are only for the Ramping OS V3 or that choosing Anduril gives you RGB.

So… Is the RGB AUX hardware in ALL new D4S but hardcoded to a specific color if you choose Ramping, or is a different LED/Aux board put in if you choose Anduril?

DIY LT1 battery wrap image. "PDF on Google Drive":https://drive.google.com/open?id=1IHIEOi1NXu868IYNCzIM7D2Ulpxchmww

Fresh Sanyo NCR18650GAs already wrapped "for sale HERE":http://budgetlightforum.com/node/69120 if you like.

mattlward
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wkweksl wrote:
mattlward wrote:
I must be dense… I see only the selection of one color of aux led.
The aux led is under the UI option as mentioned by wolfstyle

I see now, not just a cost to flash the new firmware, but that also includes the leds!!! Is not very clear on the selection page, since there is a place to select the aux colors.

EDC rotation:
FW1A, LH351D 4000k (second favorite)
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (favorite light!)
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k
S2+, XM-L2 T6 4C

wkweksl
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amishbill wrote:

Close, but not what I’m seeing.
Dropdown 1 – choose body color
Dropdown 2 – “IOS V3 UI” /or/ “Anduril UI (the same aux LED function as the D4v2) +$1.99”
Dropdown 3 – LED selection

Then some checkboxes for Aux LED colors.

Nothing here says the checkboxes are only for the Ramping OS V3 or that choosing Anduril gives you RGB.

So… Is the RGB AUX hardware in ALL new D4S but hardcoded to a specific color if you choose Ramping, or is a different LED/Aux board put in if you choose Anduril?

If you choose Anduril in the 2nd option, just omit the third option. Otherwise it’ll be the old style single colour aux led if IOS V3 UI is selected.
mattlward wrote:
I see now, not just a cost to flash the new firmware, but that also includes the leds!!! Is not very clear on the selection page, since there is a place to select the aux colors.

Maybe Hank should just consolidate the single aux led options in the third option to the second one for better clarity.

brightnorm
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Anthon wrote:
…E07 is more EDC friendly than D4S and they have the same head diameter…

True, the E07 is an excellent light, very slim and lighter than the D4S. However, I much prefer my D4S which I comfortably belt-carry in an old Thrunite TC20 holster.

The E07’s light weight means less mass to cope with the heat buildup while pumping out all those highly advertised lumens. Also, its extreme flood beam can’t compare (IMO) with the more focused projecting beam of the D4S. Even with SST 20’s the D4S still is the best combination of throw and flood of any light of its size that I have ever owned or heard about.

Without doubt, the D4S is a mini-Masterpiece!

brightnorm

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zeroflow wrote:
https://bazaar.launchpad.net/~toykeeper/flashlight-firmware/trunk/view/h...

Ok, lets start with RAMP_LENGTH. This defines how many levels are available.

After that, you have PWM1_LEVELS and PWM2_LEVELS.
For that, you need to know, that each output (3×7135 or FET) can be set between 0 (off) and 255 (full power).

Now PWM1_LEVELS defines the output of the 3×7135 for each level while PWM2_LEVELS defines the same thing for the FET.

There you will see, that PWM1_LEVELS keeps increasing until it’s 83rd value (level 83). At level 83 it is set to 255 so the 3×7135 now are running at full power.
That’s also why MAX_1×7135 is set to 83. This tells the driver to start at level 83 when the battery is inserted as lvl 83 is max. regulated power.

After level 83, you can see that the 3×7135 channel is kept at 255 while the FET keeps increasing.

If you take a look into the FW3A config (FW3A uses a FET+1+7 config), there you see that PWM1_LEVELS is for the 1×7135, PWM2_LEVELS is for 7×7135 and PWM3_LEVELS is the FET.

this was a good starter for me so i added some comments to help me understand. What is the maths involved to get these integers in the PWM1_LEVELS? If I wanted to cut PWM on FET to 80%, would my end value be 204? I see 128 for 219c on fw3a so 50% PWM (a bit conservative imo, so id like to increase pwm to 80%)

Quote:

// FW3A-219 config options for Anduril
#include “cfg-fw3a.h”

#undef PWM1_LEVELS
#undef PWM2_LEVELS
#undef PWM3_LEVELS
// PWM1_LEVELS is for 1×7135
#define PWM1_LEVELS 1,1,2,2,3,3,4,4,5,6,7,8,9,10,12,13,14,15,17,19,20,22,24,26,29,31,34,36,39,42,45,48,51,55,59,62,66,70,75,79,84,89,93,99,104,110,115,121,127,134,140,147,154,161,168,176,184,192,200,209,217,226,236,245,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255
// PWM2_LEVELS is for 7×7135
#define PWM2_LEVELS 0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,2,4,6,8,10,13,15,17,19,22,24,26,29,31,34,37,39,42,45,48,51,54,57,60,64,67,70,74,77,81,85,88,92,96,100,104,108,112,116,121,125,130,134,139,143,148,153,158,163,168,173,179,184,189,195,201,206,212,218,224,230,236,243,249,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255
// PWM3_LEVELS is FET
#define PWM3_LEVELS 0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,8,13,19,25,30,36,42,48,54,61,67,73,80,86,93,100,107,114,120,128

Agro
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DB Custom wrote:
If I calculated this correctly, the 21700 cell is 83.36% of the 26650, yet the 26650 has 50% more capacity. So the 26650 is much more efficient for the capacity it holds vs it’s size. I probably missed something somewhere, usually do. Wink

You may have missed the third dimension. 26650 is 26*26*65 and 21700 is 21*21*70. (with rounded corners). Volume is directly proportional to lengh and to a square of diameter. So 21700 is 70% of 26650. And capacity / volume? It may get close at certain discharge levels but most of the time 21700 wins.

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