Looking for a truck/farm light

Welcome to the BLF.

I second DavidEF on the SP36.
An amazing light for the money and it checks most of your boxes since it comes in a kit with the batteries. The user interface will take some learning compared to the typical Big Box Store light.

As the others have stated it’s not going to produce max Lumens for a long time. All lights that bright get hot and will step down.

The distance you are talking about takes a LOT of light in a flood beam.
With a flood, the super bright light on the closer stuff (like the ground) tends to blot out stuff in the distance since both are getting the same amount of light.
There are lights that can do that but they are large, heavy, and not cheap.

You might consider a thrower. Many have plenty of spill to the side so you can still see things off center. With the hot spot lighting up the distance you can see both near and far.

I really like the Sofirn SP70 for a truck light. It comes in a kit with 26650 batteries and a charger.
https://www.amazon.com/Tactical-Flashlight-Led,Police-Searchlight-Rechargeable/dp/B07Q2T6JHQ?ref\_=ast_bbp_dp

Also take a look at this guys youtube channel

He reviews LOTS of lights. His beam shots are consistant.
But he also gets these for free and he likes virtually everything.
So if you see something you like, try to find other opinions - Here on the BLF most reviews tell it like it is.
Good Hunting.
All the Best,
Jeff

PS
The T11 is like a popcorn fart compared to the SP36. Not even in the same league.

Not very well.
1500lm vs 5000lm
102m vs 343m
1100mah single battery vs up to 3x3000mah

ps - the Stanley FatMax only gets up to 920lm. You can exceed that in a $20 BLF A6 / AstroLux S1.

Another option may be a Convoy M3. It only takes a single 26650 and doesn’t get quite as bright, but it may hold max power longer with the design of its head.

Thrunite T1 will have about 1/4 the lumens of the Sofirn SP36S. It will also have paltry runtime. The cell is 18350 size, and there’s only one. The SP36S will hold up to three 18650 size cells, which you can get in capacity up to 3500mAh. Three of them would give you about 10x the capacity of the 18350 cell. That won’t translate to exactly 10x the runtime, because the SP36S will also draw more power. But it would still be a lot more runtime than the Thrunite T1 anyway.

Ohhh… A bit over budget, and you might want a second set of batteries, but this is nice. A grown up version of the L6 I asked about earlier.

Another thought,
If the light is going to be used from inside the truck, one of the many hunting type spot light that plug into 12v might do quite well.
All the best,
Jeff

I might have to up my budget I like the look of both of these much more for the truck. The other’s seem small enough I’d lose them. I really like the look of the L6 wish it wasn’t so much, looks tough and durable.

Convoy is a VERY good brand, and also budget priced. They don’t make anything “cheap”. You always get great value for your money. I’ve never owned an L6, but if you like the specs, I’d say get one.

David is right Convoy is a good brand.

I have both the L6v2 and the SP70. The SP70 is measurably and visually brighter than the L6. The larger head on the SP70 keeps the temps down.

Being able to turn the light off with the side switch is a huge improvement over the L6 that only turns off and on at the rear.

The anodizing on the L6 is flat black and rougher feeling than the semi-gloss on the SP70.
For nearly the same price the SP70 comes with batteries, a charger, O-rings, and a strap.
The L6 comes with nada.

The side switch on the SP70 feels kind of cheap to me. But it’s working so far.

I only wish the SP70 came in a NW.
Still I’d pick the SP70 over the L6.
All the Best,
Jeff

There should be coupons for discount, you can try Martin from M4DM4X.

Simon, the owner of Convoy on convoy.aliexpress.com will give you 10% discount if you ask for it.

Agree with the others, gonna be hard to beat that SP36S for $50. I don’t have an SP70 to compare it to, but I’ve been happy with my Convoy L6.version 2. Very nice flashlight. Good spill, pretty decent throw, good runtime. Kinda big, but for a truck light it doesn’t really matter.

ANSI spex for “throw” are kinda stretching it. If you really need to see 1000’, I’d say go with a throwier light like an L2. If you spend the bux for lumens and flood, and the light still doesn’t “reach”, you’ll be cursing the light and yourself.

Besides, a floodier light with huge output will light up the foreground right in front of you very brightly, washing out everything else that you see. The whutsit out in the distance will be quite dim compared to the painfully bright foreground.

Get the L2 for checking fields, and an Airpro DC7 (like the Sofirn Q8 but with built in usb charging, which you will appreciate with any multi-cell light) for anything closer-in.

One-time investment which’ll cover pretty much everything…

@Florida_Man

How about something like this.

Lightbringer, do you know if the Airpro DC7 issues were ever fixed? I just read the review thread HERE and I wouldn’t confidently recommend THAT light to anyone! It seems the hardware quality is pretty good, but the UI is bad and can’t be re-flashed to BLF firmware because of incompatible microcontroller.

The hardware is pretty good, by everything I can see.

The UI is a lobotomised version of the Q8’s, but it has the important stuff:

— press’n’hold for moonlight/lowest

— ramp up/down as expected

— 2click for turbo/brightest

Multiclicks for lockout, “breathing” switch button, blah blah blah, stuff I never use anyway.

There’s probably stepped mode, in fact I’m sure there is, but I never used it other than to see if it existed.

Throwy and CW like the Sofirn Q8, but usb chargeable so I don’t have to drag out a 4-bay charger every time it needs a top-off.

Now, for The Muggle™ it’s perfect. No one’s gonna be itchin’ for “lightning mode”. And no one is gonna wanna hafta buy a 4-bay charger for his/her new light.

I can’t remember the last time I looked at a light’s instruction manual (my electron-microscope is in the shop anyway, so I can’t read the molecule-sized print), and with my BLF Q8 (which I prefer anyway as warmer and floodier), I just instinctively used it right off.

So? DC7.

Stuff it with batteries, plug in, wait, done.

Top off? Plug in, wait, done. End of story.

As much as I like my Q8s, it’s a pain in the ass to open it up, unpack one of my chargers (unlike most, I keep them nicely boxed and tucked away ‘til I need one), and then go to it. And then tickle the f’n O-ring every quarter-turn so that tightening it doesn’t lop off a “tongue” of errant O-ring. And then pack up the ol’ Opus again.

Just to throw in again here…

What we may want, isn’t necessarily what’s improtant to someone who just wants, literally, a truck/farm light. High-CRI? High R9 value? No glue? Any normal person would be like, “Wotnahell are they all babbling about??”.

So, yeah, the UI is definitely lobotomised, but it does all the Important Stuff. And it does it easily. In fact, my in-use Q8 has been in its holster for a long time, and locked out, and my DC7 is what’s right in front of me. For just lighting up the backyard, or car interior of whatever idiot is repeatedly parking-by-Braille, it fits the bill nicely.

Welcome to BLF!

I was using a long thrower like a 2 cell Convoy L2 while searching out my truck window along the roadside. I worry about losing it too so I use it with a good lanyard.

What are you searching for? Varmints like coyotes, deer, hogs?

Thanks Lightbringer. I guess the “ruination” of Narsil in the DC7 might have been exaggerated in that review thread. Probably because of the initial shock that it was ever done in the first place, considering Narsil is already free to use.

But it’s that pesky “incompatible microcontroller” dealy again, so rather’n try to port it over to whatever they’re using, they just did the basics and left it at that. Ramping’s quite good in the DC7, actually. Seems visually linear and goes at a good speed. That’s something a lot of lights struggled with and never got quite right.

And I forgot if it was this light or a different one, but when asked the mfr said explicitly they wanted to dumb down the UI as to not overwhelm/confuse/whatever The Muggle.

Considering that the gold’n’blue Teslacom only has high/low in the main cycle (painfully useless if you don’t want to light up a whole room), having full ramping and 2 shortcuts is quite nice.

The only glitch I noticed is that either when shortcut to lowest and trying to ramp up, or shortcut to highest and trying to ramp down, only one of them works as expected. The other, you have to turn off the light and restart in non-shortcut mode.

I think (from vague memory) the former doesn’t work, but the latter does. Will check when I get home, if I remember.

Come to think of it, that Teslacom might be a cheaper alternative, if only 2 modes of ass-bright or only half-ass-bright is needed. Pile of XM-Ls or whatever it’s using, so they’re probably not all that high-strung, and I’ve seen vipon codes still bring it down to 15bux or so.

So a cheaper sody-pop-can light that won’t break the budget can still be had. Decent throw to medium-range, probably overwhelmingly bright up-close (even on “low”), though.

Checked the DC7.

2click to turbo does ramp down when you press’n’hold.

Press’n’hold to moonlight only turns off whether you quick-click or press’n’hold.

No biggie.