What did you mod today?

You can still swap tailcaps, but not switches. Eg, as I mentioned, a black tailcap with rubber boot on a purple head+tube. But you won’t be able to stick a rubber switch in the purple tailcap without modding it first to swap metal/rubber.

Ahh, I see why you crossed it out.

Yeah, tailcaps are interchangeable as long as you don’t mind a different color going from rubber ⇄ metal.

!

RPM e body, stripped + polished Malkoff VME head + tri cap, sst-20 3000k triple, h17f driver. Bypassed springs.

For Convoy S2+ hosts with a rubber boot:

  • There’s also a silver (clear), which comes with the presentation box (and a pocket clip): convoy S2+ host

Beautiful (y)

Thank you

Made L6 3x26650 with sliced XHP70. It was fun :smiley:

link

Looks good 1stein! Someday I’d like to build an L6. It’s a good looking flashlight with lots of power!

Thank you. It’s quite regular flashlight, just big. But often small flashlight is more difficult to mod due to smaller parts and less room. Thus CRX’s builds are so amazing.

Cut off the little protective fins around a Jetbeam SF-AA01 switch that were too small for my thumb to comfortably press, and repainted. Huge usability difference.

Forgot to take picture: modded Novatac 120T into XPL, it was “leftover” emitter found in my storage box.
The driver can’t really put enough juice though.

My DBC-05 now sports a Tofty, gained ~400 lumens on a 30T such that the CFT-90 now makes 5010 lumens on my calibrated light box. :smiley:

Edit: it finally dawned on me that with a near 26A draw I was asking a lot from a mini Omten.

I usually use a jumper wire in place of the Tail Cap while on the Lumen Tube —- That will tell you how your switch,spring , Bi pass is holding up— I started doing this after I’d measure ridiculous amps with my clamp meter and the Lumen readings were a Let Down

Tells you how dirty your switch pcb or the inside of the tailcap is more than anything…

First Impressions

V11r modded to E21a 3500k, repacked control ring w Nyogel 767a

blue locktite:

XM-L2 star about to be unsoldered:

E21a, freehand centered (from Clemence, his reflow, his mcpcb):

beams:

I like the 3500k E21a better, because it is more pink, than the 3500k 219b
I like the N219b 3000k better, because it is more orange, than the two 3500k

Initial V11r lumens on 16340 w XM-L2 was 0.01 low and 420 lumens max (spec is 1 lumen low, and 570 lumens max w 16340)
after the swap to E21a, 0.02 low, and 255 lumens maximum, that is a 40% drop

The control ring arrived very loose due to old grease. The Nyogel made it noticeably resistant to turning but can still be done with one finger.

Im waiting for a replacement reflector, atm the stock reflector produces rings in the spill w the E21a, plus there is a cross in the center of the beam when closer than 3” from the target. otoh, when shining on a wall 25 feet away, I like the tight hotspot w the E21a.

the V11r arrived with a metal switch cover that made noise and felt wrong. Installed the rubber switch cap, which I like better. The clip was not to my liking… took it off…

E21a 3500k, YES!
I would do it again…
all opinions subject to change… lol

relative tint, iphone auto white balance

the 3500k is “whiter” than incandescent… makes for a nice evening light…

the V11r reflector makes a tighter hotspot than my RRT-01’s that are flanking it.

Im really conflicted about the tailswitch on the V11r, but it has its strong points
momentary
memory

Finally I used my last stashed 219c 4070e. I put them in ReyLight Ti Dawn 2.1. MCPCB was glued to the pill.

Uploaded firmware with customized modes:

PROGMEM const uint8_t modegroups[] = {
/* 0 */ ONE7135, 0,
/* 1 */ ONE7135, ALL7135s, 0,
/* 2 */ 10, ONE7135, ALL7135s, 0,
/* 3 */ 8, 14, ONE7135, ALL7135s, 0,
/* 4 */ 10, ONE7135, 28, ALL7135s, 0,
/* 5 */ 8, 14, ONE7135, 28, ALL7135s, 0,

/* 6 */ ONE7135, 28, 0,
/* 7 */ 10, ONE7135, 28, 0,
/* 8 */ 10, ONE7135, 26, 0,
/* 9 */ 14, 28, 0,
/* 10 */ 8, 14, ONE7135, 28, 0,

/* 11 */ ALL7135s, 0,
/* 12 */ ONE7135, TURBO, 0,
/* 13 */ 10, ONE7135, TURBO, 0,
/* 14 */ 10, ONE7135, ALL7135s, TURBO, 0,
/* 15 */ 8, 14, ONE7135, ALL7135s, TURBO, 0,
/* 16 */ 10, ONE7135, 28, ALL7135s, TURBO, 0,
/* 17 */ 8, 14, ONE7135, 28, ALL7135s, TURBO, 0,

/* 18 */ 10, ONE7135, ALL7135s, TURBO, 0, // DEFAULT

/* 19 */ BIKING_STROBE, BATTCHECK, ONE7135, 28, ALL7135s, 0,

/* 20 */ 6, 16, 26, 0 // muggle mode
};

Album with pictures

Put a Luxeon V2 5000K in the Skilhunt M150. Details here: “REVIEW”: Skilhunt M150 – 1 x 14500 / AA – 750 Lumens – Double UI – Magnetic Charging [PIC HEAVY] (Beamshots added = Post#21)

Summary:
(Comparisons with Luxeon V 4000K (under a TIR, on the right))

Congratulations on your mod Jon! You are getting better at it by the day! :+1: :beer: I like the incandescent the most in your tint comparison. The E21A 3500K actually looks kind of green but it could be the camera playing tricks.

Was it hard to remove the mcpcb? I was thinking of buying one but didn’t because of the glue. Did you reglue it after the swap?

It was pretty easy. You need only soldering iron. Apply a bit of solder to the side of MCPCB to improve heat transfer and just wait. After couple of minutes you will be able to separate MCPCB from the pill with tweezers. Side effect: leds will unsolder themselves as well. Then clean everything with isopropyl alcohol. I used MX4 thermal paste, didn’t glue anything.

Replaced the DIY 2 LED aux board in my E01 with a Lexel board with 4 LED’s. I’ll probably swap them out to a single color to match how the 4 LED’s of the switch are a single color, still gotta decide what color though. I’m thinking red or amber.

The beam pattern with the E01’s big TIR is pretty cool looking!