*BLF LT1 Lantern Project) (updated Nov,17,2020)

I did do just that some years ago with the original V1 prototype of the LT1, but will certainly do more comparison videos of the production LT1 to them as soon as they are in production and on the way :+1:

Here is the original V1 prototype, (the lantern on the right of the photo, when it was running 4-7135s on a Nanjg Q-Lite driver) and the Coleman 321 single-mantle gas lantern on the left of the photo, (with two modified LED lanterns in the middle)

I'm sorry to hear that you didn't get a chance to have a look onto the manual in the first place. I asked my contact at Sofirn who created the manual but she wouldn't know. It looks very well done as far as I can assess.

I send you a shared link via PM to download the editable docx-file. It would be fantastic if you were to check the content for any mistakes and let me know about it or maybe even do the corrections (if any) in the file.

I convinced Sofirn this morning to let you check the manual first and do the translation afterwards and not vice versa.

If you see any chance to place the nice logo into the file that'd be great. Otherwise I could also do it including some minor corrections with the layout where necessary.

Thank you Den!

It essentially looks like a copy/paste of the FW3x manual with some edits.

@Lux-Perpetua
I noticed a typo under Temp Ramp configuration (the only section I looked at, btw).
“While the lantern is on, clic, click, hold to change…”

Thank you guys. Any feedback is deeply appreciated. I will also wait for Den's feedback.

As far as I know the launch of the LT1 is imminent, so I try to get the translation done asap.

I wonder if the manual was created by some BLF or TLF member.

Also under Integrated Charger on the first section you have “Please us a premium cable” instead of “Please use a premium cable”

You know what’s fun about gas/kerosene lantern?

Flame sources have efficiencies of about 1 lumen/watt.

That means to output 800 lumens, you need around 800W of power, while the lantern could do this with about 8W of power, or even less.

I got the manual copy shortly after & looked it over. (sent you a message) Also any typos or errors you see, edit them if you can and send it back to Sofirn.

Please could you put me on the list for one LT1?

Regarding the manual, it’s got a snippet in it for thermal config, but does the lantern have a temp sensor? I recall reading somewhere it didn’t but I could be mistaken. If not, that whole section could probably be removed.

Just read your PM and replied back. :-D If you say the manual is correct contentwise I'd be more than happy.

I will correct any typos and minor flaws in layout I find and that were reported by helpful BLF members here. Thanks for your support.

Sofirn has (hopefully) given me a due date until the end of next week to get everything straightened out. Not much time this time but it will be done.

Good point! Den / Selene, could you please let me know how to deal with this part of the manual? Thank you.

The LT1 does not have any thermal sensor, as the driver board section is not conducting any heat form the head where the LEDs are. (that section for the thermal sensor can be omitted/removed.

Thanks! It sounded appropriate for the vintage lanterns and the madness of over-illumination. The camera auto exposure did very little to show just how overly bright the room was lit.

They are all fun… once you’ve learned how to enjoy them without burning your fingers and eyebrows! Kerosene pressurized lanterns are typically of robust design and construction and can burn most flammable light petroleum distillates, but require a portion of the lantern to be preheated before it can be ignited. Its another step added to the lighting process (versus white gas lanterns), but they put out more light and BTU’s while burning kero or similar. The vintage versions can be built like tanks, look quite ornate and are collectable. Tint and lux is adjusted by the type of mantles you use (the higher the thorium content, the brighter and whiter), fuel pressure, and fuel type (I mix a cocktail of kero, stoddard solvent and white gas for my kero lanterns). You can usually buy a cheap used white gas lantern locally (such as a Coleman 220) on FB or CL for around $10-20 to experiment with.

Ive seen that pic somewhere too. Very nice! Keep on lantern’nin!

Can you please put me down for one.
Thanks.

Please put me down for another lantern, for a total of 3.
Thank you.

@DBSAR

I ran across this work-light and thought the accessories would work well with the LT1. The sharpened threaded aluminum stake is a great idea, and it comes with a tripod base for when it cant be stuck into the ground. Id much prefer to see 2 or 3 2-foot sections, but any height for the lantern above the ground is better than none. Maybe throw something together like this with your shade.

Is the LT1 1/4 x 20 threaded?

Yep, both the side & bottom tripod mount holes are 1/4-20 threads.

TBH, tri-pods and stakes compatible with 1/4-20 threads are super abundant already. I don’t think it’s necessary or even advantageous to pick a specific size/shape/style to sell as an official accessory. The official LT1 accessories should be things like a 180 degree side shade, a top hat shade, and other accessories that are specifically useful for the LT1 and aren’t already available in abundance. This is only my opinion and you’re free to disagree, as always. :innocent:

Yep, very true. I am working on a bunch of accessory ideas, and will do a video soon. :+1:

There are several mentions of the thermal sensor throughout the material.

There are also mentions of the LT1 starting fires and being a “high power flashlight”. I thought the lantern was regulated low enough and had enough thermal mass for firestarting to not be a problem, even with the extra chips enabled.

Wait one… the LT1 has muggle mode, and it persists through taking the batteries out? Don’t get me wrong - anything to keep your friends from getting lost in the UI is a good thing, but this is saying that the driver doesn’t reset (some / all) settings when you take out the batteries? Is there a period of time for this or is it truly persistent?

They suggest that if you drop something, you can lay your light on the ground and roll it around like a lighthouse. I think a responsible adult needs to redline a lot of generic content left over from the donor document.