*BLF LT1 Lantern Project) (updated Nov,17,2020)

I got the manual copy shortly after & looked it over. (sent you a message) Also any typos or errors you see, edit them if you can and send it back to Sofirn.

Please could you put me on the list for one LT1?

Regarding the manual, it’s got a snippet in it for thermal config, but does the lantern have a temp sensor? I recall reading somewhere it didn’t but I could be mistaken. If not, that whole section could probably be removed.

Just read your PM and replied back. :-D If you say the manual is correct contentwise I'd be more than happy.

I will correct any typos and minor flaws in layout I find and that were reported by helpful BLF members here. Thanks for your support.

Sofirn has (hopefully) given me a due date until the end of next week to get everything straightened out. Not much time this time but it will be done.

Good point! Den / Selene, could you please let me know how to deal with this part of the manual? Thank you.

The LT1 does not have any thermal sensor, as the driver board section is not conducting any heat form the head where the LEDs are. (that section for the thermal sensor can be omitted/removed.

Thanks! It sounded appropriate for the vintage lanterns and the madness of over-illumination. The camera auto exposure did very little to show just how overly bright the room was lit.

They are all fun… once you’ve learned how to enjoy them without burning your fingers and eyebrows! Kerosene pressurized lanterns are typically of robust design and construction and can burn most flammable light petroleum distillates, but require a portion of the lantern to be preheated before it can be ignited. Its another step added to the lighting process (versus white gas lanterns), but they put out more light and BTU’s while burning kero or similar. The vintage versions can be built like tanks, look quite ornate and are collectable. Tint and lux is adjusted by the type of mantles you use (the higher the thorium content, the brighter and whiter), fuel pressure, and fuel type (I mix a cocktail of kero, stoddard solvent and white gas for my kero lanterns). You can usually buy a cheap used white gas lantern locally (such as a Coleman 220) on FB or CL for around $10-20 to experiment with.

Ive seen that pic somewhere too. Very nice! Keep on lantern’nin!

Can you please put me down for one.
Thanks.

Please put me down for another lantern, for a total of 3.
Thank you.

@DBSAR

I ran across this work-light and thought the accessories would work well with the LT1. The sharpened threaded aluminum stake is a great idea, and it comes with a tripod base for when it cant be stuck into the ground. Id much prefer to see 2 or 3 2-foot sections, but any height for the lantern above the ground is better than none. Maybe throw something together like this with your shade.

Is the LT1 1/4 x 20 threaded?

Yep, both the side & bottom tripod mount holes are 1/4-20 threads.

TBH, tri-pods and stakes compatible with 1/4-20 threads are super abundant already. I don’t think it’s necessary or even advantageous to pick a specific size/shape/style to sell as an official accessory. The official LT1 accessories should be things like a 180 degree side shade, a top hat shade, and other accessories that are specifically useful for the LT1 and aren’t already available in abundance. This is only my opinion and you’re free to disagree, as always. :innocent:

Yep, very true. I am working on a bunch of accessory ideas, and will do a video soon. :+1:

There are several mentions of the thermal sensor throughout the material.

There are also mentions of the LT1 starting fires and being a “high power flashlight”. I thought the lantern was regulated low enough and had enough thermal mass for firestarting to not be a problem, even with the extra chips enabled.

Wait one… the LT1 has muggle mode, and it persists through taking the batteries out? Don’t get me wrong - anything to keep your friends from getting lost in the UI is a good thing, but this is saying that the driver doesn’t reset (some / all) settings when you take out the batteries? Is there a period of time for this or is it truly persistent?

They suggest that if you drop something, you can lay your light on the ground and roll it around like a lighthouse. I think a responsible adult needs to redline a lot of generic content left over from the donor document.

DBSAR measured the lantern with 5 7135’s enabled reaching about 40C which is 104F so it doesn’t seem like a dangerous level to me, it not being much more than a high fever for a person.

I agree with amishbill, we have waited for the best lantern, it would be a bit of a letdown to have a manual that is not tailored to the product.

there are a few references to flashlight instead of lantern.

Other comments I have not seen yet:
Page 1: I Would recommend adding to the Safety precaution section: Upmost care must be used when inserting cells into the lantern All cells must be inserted into the base with the positive pole pointing up. Failure to do so will result in the cells being connected together improperly, which will damage the lantern and void the warranty. There is a note in the next section to use button top batteries and install them with the button up, but seriously if you don’t put the batteries in correctly, you will have a hot mess in your hands.

Page 3:
Question on sunset mode, other versions of Anduril have had a configurable mode, where one can change the timing (IIRC). Does this version just have a one hour setting, and no changes? If configuration is possible, it should be added. Maybe I’m confused with candle?
Party strobe and tactical strobe (probably should be disabled anyway in a lantern), the description doesn’t really say how to change the configuration, just that you can. Needs a bit more description.
In the ramp configuration section, there is a table. One column heading is ca lm. Not sure what this is, but if its supposed to be lumens it is way off. The table also lists a FET, which the lantern doesn’t have. It also lists a single 7135, which is not applicable. All enabled 7135s are in parallel. I don’t expect the lantern would “blink” anywhere in the ramping,except at the top and bottom of the ramp.

Page 4:
As mentioned before, the LT1 should not be able to burn things, so this needs to be removed from the manual.
The second column references a diffuser a couple of times. Delete.
The searching for things paragraph, Delete.
Just below the table in the second column is a reference to 16350 cells, Delete.

I know everyone wants the lantern to get to market, but the manual definitely needs work. I volunteer to make edits if provided the source material. This assumes the source is editable as a google doc or in Office.

With 5-7135s the top of the head reached 40C maximum, (104F) when all 7-7135s are loaded then it reached close to 70C at full throttle after 1 hour, (or roughly 158 degrees Fahrenheit)

Good points… my time has been limited this past week and for the next couple weeks, maybe if you & others can go through the manual that Barry pas provided to fix & add some things, ( i can provide some more specifications, ans some estimated run times for the stepped modes form my testing, along with other specifications on the LT1 that is missing.

Ok,… i discovered I am unable to edit either the DOCX files or PDF files of the manual… as i do not have the programs needed to do that… if anyone has those file editor software so i can edit the manual that would be great to find.

I just forwarded the editable file to you via PM. Thank you very much for your help.

If there aren't any objections I will be happy to collate all information I can get (e.g. from Den and sbslider) and revise the manual both contentwise and in terms of spell checking, both English and German.

Do you have any word processing software like Microsoft Word or Libre Office?

https://www.libreoffice.org/

I can also try to make the file on my sharepoint editable with Google Docs but I admit I have never done that before. I do not know if Google docs can process docx-files, though.

interested.
We wait,