I’m liking the ice blue LEDs. I have some on order from eBay to put in a lighted switch.
Arh i just looked them up 200mm is $100 cheaper than i paid for the 178mm. Only problem with that is 200mm will need a bigger billet unless i do a lost wax casting to use the pile of swarf i have.
thinking of using thermoelectric cooling or endermans method of liquid cooling will make it easier to mount the focus drive motor. The liquid tubes can run from the back of the light through a carry handle into the black driving light housing where a copper coil will be. Cctv camera with PTZ module to act as range finder and control focus drive motor and will allow for remote operation.
Here is a bit of a layout of the host.
Battery pack will be 4-5s4p 21700 samsung 40t
Used my new Oveready Bezel tools to break open the blue locktite on the V11r control ring assembly.
Added more Nyogel 767a, to slow down the control ring. Nice result, still works with one finger, but wont move unintentionally.
Still Loving the 3500k E21a, it is quite beautiful, and makes red POP more than my 219b’s,
and works well both at night and during the day, without being “too” warm
If I could have only one… (not gonna happen), the E21a 3500k would be my pick for an all purpose EDC. (My sw45k are feeling neglected.)
I will do an E21a 4500k next, to compare with the sw45k that has been my main squeeze for the last 6 months… (with a few dalliances along the way)
I modded the rebar chairs on left into water pump cage on the right .
Reckon I’d be grinning too with such grandiose plans… subscribed. 
Modified an Original RRT-01
installed shaved LH351d, thanks to moderator007 and installed Kaidomain reflector, also thanks to moderator007
added Nyogel 767a to smooth out the ring control
the LH351d is 34% brighter (545 lumens on IMR 18350), than the sw45k (408 lumens on IMR 18350)…
LH351d is greener due to the Slider Effect (I compare everything to N219b sw45k…) lol
clemence wrote:
“This is the JonSlider effect (he popularize the phenomenon). Even my camera agrees.”
Nice, if you want warm I can shave a 3500K for you (also you should try to source a plain lens maybe from esslinger.com)
very kind of you to offer… will think on it
next:
Mod Original RRT-01
LED to 219b 4500k sw45k
reflector to kaidomain
control ring to Nyogel 767a
proof of light
the reason the beam is not not pink, is the photo is taken late at night under incandescent, so the sw45k looks cool blue… the Pink will be back tomorrow, when the sun is shining again
Yesterday I modified one of my Nitenumen NE01 to be able to use it in cave excursions (in Rome there are several caves under the surface)
I replaced the parabola with a 120° TIR, then I added some rubber, against small bumps, obtained from an old and too cheap binoculars. In the excursions the strap will disappear
Nice looking modding job jon_slider 
.
I really like your comparison pics also, way better than I can do.
Now you got to try the sliced 3500k contactcr offered or a sliced 4000k that I’ll offer to send your way.
.
@contactcr
You wouldn’t happen to have a comparison shot of the sliced 3500k would you. I might like to try one myself.
Don’t have a beam shot right now but here’s some measurements I took a while ago:
S2+ light op reflector, 5.5A linear driver, low to high:
CCT = 3215K (Duv –0.0001)
CCT = 3247K (Duv –0.0002)
CCT = 3288K (Duv –0.0007)
CCT = 3332K (Duv –0.0030)
Below BBL with reflector is about as good as you can expect of any LED these days
Alright, you talked me into it. PM inbound.
really appreciate your contributions!
Im not quite ready for the brighter LH351d… it works great and hugs the BBL well, but atm my GreenSliderSyndrome is getting the best of me… lol… maybe its because of my cataracts that Im so in love with my pink tinted LEDs…
My favorite 3500k LED atm is the E21a in my V11r… need to order a few more from Clemence to continue my testing… there is a lot of room for improvement in the beam Im getting…
This is the beam in a V11r w stock reflector… I can live with it (because I focus on the hotspot mostly), but its not ideal
This is a beam I consider excellent, from a 219b
when using the reflector and centering ring that works for the 219b in an RRT-01 the beam of the E21a is unacceptable (led sits too far below the bottom of the reflector)
Posting here for a future mod to a Jaxman E2L
( image stolen from Yokiamy, thanks <3 )
Can I grind down this area instead of filing down the MCPCB? I want to fit one of these MTN boards with secondary LEDs right on the edge of the PCB. Just worried that this may be a structural part of the host or something?
I dont own one of these, but the best I can tell from the pic it looks like a relief cut for the threading during machining with alot of meat left below it.
If you have a set of calipers just measure the thickness of the tube wall where you are wanting to grind. I usually dont like to go any thinner than .035” preferably .040” .
You can also measure the diameter of outside of the tube, then measure the inside hole diameter of where your wanting to grind. Subtract the inside hole from the outside diameter and divide by 2. That will give you the wall thickness there.
[quote=contactcr]
Posting here for a future mod to a Jaxman E2L
( image stolen from Yokiamy, thanks <3 )
Can I grind down this area instead of filing down the MCPCB? I want to fit one of these MTN boards with secondary LEDs right on the edge of the PCB. Just worried that this may be a structural part of the host or something?
Don’t you have to bore the rim around the shelf out for a 20mm board or are you going to shim it?
What LED’s are you going to go with on the secondaries?
Beam of the Mtn board I did with “Hot Pink” secondary LED’s 
Shoot Kawi you are right. I thought it was just a thin rim but it does go all the way down to the shelf. No way i’m grinding that neatly.
However, upon opening my light to check measurements (thx moderator007) I realize that I actually have an older? version of the MTN board already in there (like this):
I guess since the XQ-E pads are on the inside I can use it after all. Probably wont look as pretty as the nicely spread out 3x secondary but it’ll do and I ordered two of the dragon drivers so I might as well I suppose.
I went with amber XQ-E
I think maybe that board might be better (looking beam if you will visually) you can run 2 XQ-E’s side by side, so more “Flood” I guess… and on center to the post between 2 main LED’s……can’t wait to see this :+1:
Is it safe to say that ive created the worst looking flashlight? We all know how big of a flop the Haikelite HT08 was, so i decided to put it to a good use and made adapter for 68mm aspheric lens.
I know, i know it looks bad and it needs some design changes, but i built this just for fun so i guess i wont change the design much, anyhow i know that i need new bezel with lens guard and some minor aesthetic changes and they are coming, but for the time being it is going to look hideous as it is
Performance wise it is okay, 650kcd with black flat in direct drive. 1600m throw from a HT08? Ill take it
Worst looking? It’s up there with the worst of them, yes, but the performance cant be denied 