I want them all! (I know it’s a problem.)
I love XHP50/70, I will make frosted glass for it and it will be perfect!
But I would prefer in a classic body Lumintop.
Nice, please PM me when its alive!
XHP50.2 in 21700 + OP reflector with copper pill + without trit holes so head’s wall could be thinner
This is my idea 
What are the pro’s and cons of an XHP50.2 versus the existing options ?
not as bright but tighter as the FW3A i think
but not as tight (but brighter) ad the XP-L HI in the first FW1A
The main and decisive advantage of the XHP50/70 is that it is noticeably less heated and long runtime.
You can shine for a long time 1000Lm without stepdowns until you run out of battery and your hand burns.
According to my rough estimates, one XHP50/70 is comparable as 7-9 3535LED in modes up to 1000Lm. And in turbo XHP50 it is comparable as a triple, in turbo XHP70 is comparable as a quadruple.
If you do not like the light of the reflector compared to the TIR-optics of the triple, then you can replace the transparent glass with frosted glass or use a frosted film for lamination. It will turn out a very flood light.
Ooooo! Seconded!
One XHP50.2@1Amp have 1055 T_A lm output, 183 lm/W: Testing a Cree XHP50.2 J4 3A led
Four LH351D (@0.5Amp each) have 1124 T_A lm output, 198 lm/W: Samsung LH351D 5000k LED output test by Texas_Ace - Amazing output, low thermal resistance but high Vf
Wow, that’s quite a huge difference in efficiency. I only have 1 XHP50.2 light, a Zebralight SC600w IV Plus, and I really like that it generates relatively little heat at similar outputs to the XHP35 Zebras I own. The tint shift of it isn’t great, though, but with a frosted lens you wouldn’t notice.
Though I’m not a fan of the quality issues the FW3A’s have experienced, a FW1A with the XHP50.2 does sound intriguing, if for no other reason than a boost in efficiency and longer run-times at high output.
I don’t understand the desire to put every light in a 21700 body, especially pocket-lights. It turns a small pocket light into an awkwardly large light in your pocket. Completely goes against the purpose of the FWXX. You get a modest increase in capacity over an 18650, but no where near enough to justify the decrease in usability as an EDC.
I totally understand for larger lights, like a thrower or a light meant to be hand-held on a walk. But small lights? I don’t get it.
This is interesting data.
As a user, I proceed from the real temperature behavior of flashlights. I do not like to burn my hands, and I have to shine long and brightly. Most often I use a brightness of about 1000 lumens and collected some data. From these data, I concluded that the XHP50 in 1000-1200 lumens has serious advantages:
Air temperature 24°C, without cooling.
Sofirt C8F 3*XP-L(990Lm) – 58°C 20 minutes later. And (650Lm) 50°C 20 minutes later.
Sofirt SP33 1*XHP50.2(1000Lm) – 41°C 20 minutes later and 47°C 60 minutes later.
BLF Q8 4*XP-L(~1100Lm “Group6-Mid2”) – 47°C 20 minutes later.
YLP G180 9*XP-G2 (800Lm) 45°C 60 minutes later. And (1400Lm) 69°C 60 minutes later.
Wowtac A5 1*XHP70.2(1800Lm) – 58°C 20 minutes later.
Eagtac DX3B Clicky 1*XHP50.2(850Lm) – 47°C 20 minutes later.
I tested LH351D only the HI-СRI 4000K version and these flashlights were heated in about the same way XP-L 5000K.
This!
It would be very hard for the XHP50.2 to be as efficient as 7-9 35x35 emitters considering it’s basically 4 XP-G3s on one pad.
[quote=BurningPlayd0h]
I can’t measure the current consumption, I can only compare the heating temperature.
Sofirt SP33 1*XHP50.2(1000Lm) – 41°C 20 minutes later and 47°C 60 minutes later.
YLP G180 9*XP-G2 (800Lm) 45°C 60 minutes later.
please PM me when its alive!
Interesting
Part of the reasoning is that a 21700 cell, even with the same rated capacity, holds a charge better, can push more current with far less sag and has a great deal more active development behind them these days. With a properly designed chassis, minimal size increase of 3-4mm in diameter, and at least 10mm longer, if that, plus with the increased dimensions allows for more heatsinking without it being too bulky, like a 26650.
Almost cannot wait for my Convoy s21a to come in, if only to see what an XHP50.2-J4 6V can do with it.
Holds a charge better? I’m not sure I understand what you mean. 18650’s and 21700’s hold a charge exactly the same; they use the same chemistry.
Okay, but is that really important on a EDC light? You’re not going to be running it at 10 amps for very long before it overheats.
Well, even if that is true, I’m not going to buy a light based on what kind of battery might be available for it in a year or two. Besides, even a 3000mAh cell is more than enough for EDC use. On one of my Zebralights, that gives me 6 hours of run-time at about 300 lumens (regulated).
I think this is where we disagree, and it’s a personal preference. To me, adding 10mm in length and 3-4mm in diameter, no longer means it’s an EDC light. It might be a great light for carrying while walking, or for sticking in a coat pocket, but it’s too bulky for my pants pocket, even on a clip.
All that said, I don’t find the FW3A any good for EDC anyway. I tried it, but got way too many accidental button-presses that turned on the light without me noticing. Very bad switch design for EDC, in my opinion.
So, I’m almost changing my mind, and agreeing with you that a 21700 version might be okay. Since I can’t EDC it anyway, perhaps a larger version with better heat dissipation could be useful.
intrested, if we get a Aluminium Body with copper pill 