FW1A with a XHP50.2 feeler list

not as bright but tighter as the FW3A i think
but not as tight (but brighter) ad the XP-L HI in the first FW1A

The main and decisive advantage of the XHP50/70 is that it is noticeably less heated and long runtime.
You can shine for a long time 1000Lm without stepdowns until you run out of battery and your hand burns.
According to my rough estimates, one XHP50/70 is comparable as 7-9 3535LED in modes up to 1000Lm. And in turbo XHP50 it is comparable as a triple, in turbo XHP70 is comparable as a quadruple.
If you do not like the light of the reflector compared to the TIR-optics of the triple, then you can replace the transparent glass with frosted glass or use a frosted film for lamination. It will turn out a very flood light.

Ooooo! Seconded!

One XHP50.2@1Amp have 1055 T_A lm output, 183 lm/W: Testing a Cree XHP50.2 J4 3A led
Four LH351D (@0.5Amp each) have 1124 T_A lm output, 198 lm/W: Samsung LH351D 5000k LED output test by Texas_Ace - Amazing output, low thermal resistance but high Vf

Wow, that’s quite a huge difference in efficiency. I only have 1 XHP50.2 light, a Zebralight SC600w IV Plus, and I really like that it generates relatively little heat at similar outputs to the XHP35 Zebras I own. The tint shift of it isn’t great, though, but with a frosted lens you wouldn’t notice.

Though I’m not a fan of the quality issues the FW3A’s have experienced, a FW1A with the XHP50.2 does sound intriguing, if for no other reason than a boost in efficiency and longer run-times at high output.

I don’t understand the desire to put every light in a 21700 body, especially pocket-lights. It turns a small pocket light into an awkwardly large light in your pocket. Completely goes against the purpose of the FWXX. You get a modest increase in capacity over an 18650, but no where near enough to justify the decrease in usability as an EDC.

I totally understand for larger lights, like a thrower or a light meant to be hand-held on a walk. But small lights? I don’t get it.

This is interesting data.
As a user, I proceed from the real temperature behavior of flashlights. I do not like to burn my hands, and I have to shine long and brightly. Most often I use a brightness of about 1000 lumens and collected some data. From these data, I concluded that the XHP50 in 1000-1200 lumens has serious advantages:
Air temperature 24°C, without cooling.
Sofirt C8F 3*XP-L(990Lm) – 58°C 20 minutes later. And (650Lm) 50°C 20 minutes later.
Sofirt SP33 1*XHP50.2(1000Lm) – 41°C 20 minutes later and 47°C 60 minutes later.
BLF Q8 4*XP-L(~1100Lm “Group6-Mid2”) – 47°C 20 minutes later.
YLP G180 9*XP-G2 (800Lm) 45°C 60 minutes later. And (1400Lm) 69°C 60 minutes later.
Wowtac A5 1*XHP70.2(1800Lm) – 58°C 20 minutes later.
Eagtac DX3B Clicky 1*XHP50.2(850Lm) – 47°C 20 minutes later.

I tested LH351D only the HI-СRI 4000K version and these flashlights were heated in about the same way XP-L 5000K.

This!

It would be very hard for the XHP50.2 to be as efficient as 7-9 35x35 emitters considering it’s basically 4 XP-G3s on one pad.

[quote=BurningPlayd0h]

I can’t measure the current consumption, I can only compare the heating temperature.
Sofirt SP33 1*XHP50.2(1000Lm) – 41°C 20 minutes later and 47°C 60 minutes later.
YLP G180 9*XP-G2 (800Lm) 45°C 60 minutes later.

please PM me when its alive!

Interesting

Part of the reasoning is that a 21700 cell, even with the same rated capacity, holds a charge better, can push more current with far less sag and has a great deal more active development behind them these days. With a properly designed chassis, minimal size increase of 3-4mm in diameter, and at least 10mm longer, if that, plus with the increased dimensions allows for more heatsinking without it being too bulky, like a 26650.
Almost cannot wait for my Convoy s21a to come in, if only to see what an XHP50.2-J4 6V can do with it.

Holds a charge better? I’m not sure I understand what you mean. 18650’s and 21700’s hold a charge exactly the same; they use the same chemistry.

Okay, but is that really important on a EDC light? You’re not going to be running it at 10 amps for very long before it overheats.

Well, even if that is true, I’m not going to buy a light based on what kind of battery might be available for it in a year or two. Besides, even a 3000mAh cell is more than enough for EDC use. On one of my Zebralights, that gives me 6 hours of run-time at about 300 lumens (regulated).

I think this is where we disagree, and it’s a personal preference. To me, adding 10mm in length and 3-4mm in diameter, no longer means it’s an EDC light. It might be a great light for carrying while walking, or for sticking in a coat pocket, but it’s too bulky for my pants pocket, even on a clip.

All that said, I don’t find the FW3A any good for EDC anyway. I tried it, but got way too many accidental button-presses that turned on the light without me noticing. Very bad switch design for EDC, in my opinion.

So, I’m almost changing my mind, and agreeing with you that a 21700 version might be okay. Since I can’t EDC it anyway, perhaps a larger version with better heat dissipation could be useful.

intrested, if we get a Aluminium Body with copper pill :wink:

Okay then :slight_smile:
This is where the technicalities of a lot of batteries will get ya:
The actual rating is how long the battery lasts at a set current, about 500mA or so. When you pull more than that, the actual mAH Rating goes way down on an 18650, less so on a 21700 or a 26650. The chemistry is also a bit of a Misnomer, because of the materials used for the Anode and Cathodes, can be a bit crazy once ya dig into it a bit :wink:
Lastly, the Voltage Sag is very important on anything with a Voltage Boost, helps keeps the efficiency rating of the driver up, kinda pointless if you have a 3V Buck, PWM or something.

Anyhow, I’m leaning to agree with ya about the FW3A 21700, too thick in the barrel for me to EDC, which is why I’ve went with the Convoy S21A for my own custom build, and would only be marginally bigger than the Sofirn SP31A.V2 I EDC atm

That’s only true of extremely low drain cells, see for yourself: Battery test-review 18650 comparator

Out of curiosity, what light do you EDC?

Compare size of Imalent DM70 - 21700 with…e.g Wuben E10 - 18650. DM70 is even shorter, and tube diameter is the same. S2+ is 3mm shorter and 1mm thinner, so DM70 is not that bigger. So it is possible to make a 21700 the same size as a “standard” 18650.

FW1A 21700 without trit holes would be smaller, IMO it would be nice to have FW1A 18650 XPL or SST, and FW1A 21700 XHP50.2

Btw, where do you need more than 1200lm in your small EDC pocket light?

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