really appreciate your contributions!
Im not quite ready for the brighter LH351d… it works great and hugs the BBL well, but atm my GreenSliderSyndrome is getting the best of me… lol… maybe its because of my cataracts that Im so in love with my pink tinted LEDs…
My favorite 3500k LED atm is the E21a in my V11r… need to order a few more from Clemence to continue my testing… there is a lot of room for improvement in the beam Im getting…
This is the beam in a V11r w stock reflector… I can live with it (because I focus on the hotspot mostly), but its not ideal
This is a beam I consider excellent, from a 219b
when using the reflector and centering ring that works for the 219b in an RRT-01 the beam of the E21a is unacceptable (led sits too far below the bottom of the reflector)
Can I grind down this area instead of filing down the MCPCB? I want to fit one of these MTN boards with secondary LEDs right on the edge of the PCB. Just worried that this may be a structural part of the host or something?
I dont own one of these, but the best I can tell from the pic it looks like a relief cut for the threading during machining with alot of meat left below it.
If you have a set of calipers just measure the thickness of the tube wall where you are wanting to grind. I usually dont like to go any thinner than .035” preferably .040” .
You can also measure the diameter of outside of the tube, then measure the inside hole diameter of where your wanting to grind. Subtract the inside hole from the outside diameter and divide by 2. That will give you the wall thickness there.
[quote=contactcr]
Posting here for a future mod to a Jaxman E2L
( image stolen from Yokiamy, thanks <3 )
Can I grind down this area instead of filing down the MCPCB? I want to fit one of these MTN boards with secondary LEDs right on the edge of the PCB. Just worried that this may be a structural part of the host or something?
Don’t you have to bore the rim around the shelf out for a 20mm board or are you going to shim it?
What LED’s are you going to go with on the secondaries?
Beam of the Mtn board I did with “Hot Pink” secondary LED’s
Shoot Kawi you are right. I thought it was just a thin rim but it does go all the way down to the shelf. No way i’m grinding that neatly.
However, upon opening my light to check measurements (thx moderator007) I realize that I actually have an older? version of the MTN board already in there (like this):
I guess since the XQ-E pads are on the inside I can use it after all. Probably wont look as pretty as the nicely spread out 3x secondary but it’ll do and I ordered two of the dragon drivers so I might as well I suppose.
I think maybe that board might be better (looking beam if you will visually) you can run 2 XQ-E’s side by side, so more “Flood” I guess… and on center to the post between 2 main LED’s……can’t wait to see this :+1:
Is it safe to say that ive created the worst looking flashlight? We all know how big of a flop the Haikelite HT08 was, so i decided to put it to a good use and made adapter for 68mm aspheric lens.
I know, i know it looks bad and it needs some design changes, but i built this just for fun so i guess i wont change the design much, anyhow i know that i need new bezel with lens guard and some minor aesthetic changes and they are coming, but for the time being it is going to look hideous as it is
Performance wise it is okay, 650kcd with black flat in direct drive. 1600m throw from a HT08? Ill take it
grin, I learned something this past Sunday… after creating similar mountains of swarf to what you show and having no experience with SS or harder metals I deviated from a plan to make a guide rod out of Titanium and went with a bar of SS I’ve had for a couple of decades. Found it in the road no less. Turns out it was hardened, very tough to drill and broke a tap off in it. Ultimately got outside threads cut at a larger M6x1 and made a matching nut for a captured spring but in trying to get the swarf off I got a piece embedded in my thumb! Curse the hardened SS shavings! So I will be taking a dental pick out to the lathe for future use… live and learn I guess.
Better in the Thumb than a micro piece in the eye —— I’m a retired carpenter— I had the Eye Dr on speed dial from micro flakes of steel from Guns that my men and I would get—Sucks
Hey but at least Titanium and Stainless doesn’t rust — Galv really Sucks
I have gone out to the shop with a few flashlight components in hand and made a complete light with no plan at all, actually seemed easiest that way. Little things that you head out thinking “This won’t take long…” those are the bears that drive ya nuts! Turning a half inch rod down to a 6mm guide rod, piece of cake right? Wrong! I started at 9:45 in the morning and had the captured spring in the gun at 4:30 that afternoon. UGH! Ended up taking it back out there and cutting a bevel on the slide facing side of the nut, for sanity reasons. No idea what this piece of metal was in a previous life but it’s some hard stuff! Should have just walked away and retrieved the bar of Titanium…
I thought the shavings that were wrapped around the piece just cut me, came in and cleaned it up, looking down into the cut and didn’t see any issue, got the bleeding stopped and went back out there. At around 8PM I noticed a little chip embedded in the end of my thumbnail, eyeballed it (with an aspheric lens of course!) and pried it out of the nail so I could grab it, out slid this nasty curved piece of SS that was deep enough in my thumb I missed it entirely! Felt wonderful!
But hey, I got the part that I couldn’t find offered anywhere. LOL
Yesterday I got some new Murata 21700 VTC6A cells in, wanted to test them to see how they compared to 30T, 40T and such…. took the battery tube off my Ham’r and tested the fresh charged 21700 cell powering 17 emitters. 31.8A, not bad! Not the best, but not at all bad…. put the battery tube back on the Ham’r and danged if it wouldn’t work! Been troubleshooting that one ever since. Got it back together today and have it working but at a lower output and without a functional ramping to Anduril. Makes no sense, stepped mode works, all the blinkies work, Candlelight is fully functional as is Lightning mode. Just no ramping. I now have it assembled without the 4 slaves, the original Q8 driver is powering all 17 emitters from a single SIR404DP MOSFET. Still does 20,000 lumens on 4 Samsung 25S 18650’s. Danged if I can figure out what happened to the ramping….
Not a mod but - Ordered something and got the wrong product. Long story short, I have something to give away. Would rather post here because this thread is what got me hooked on this forum
Anyway, first one to respond who wants a brand new in box Uni-T UT120A, it’s up for grabs.
That is a neat multimeter, I use one too. I like that despite the small 2032 button cell, it does (up to 200mA) current measurements, and especially the micro-amp measurement is nice.
