I for one like the gray aluminum. It allows for no guilt when carrying a light and it gets scratched, dropped or otherwise boogered up. I have several copper, brass and titanium lights that I donāt carry for fear of damaging them.
I hope the FW1A sticks around, because itās a good design. But it doesnāt have a list of literally thousands of people waiting to buy it like the FW3A did, so I donāt expect it will be as popular or have as many flavors.
Plus, many of us now have quite a few FW3As so itās difficult to justify buying more. Iām at the point where I have a whole line-up to choose from when I want a lightā¦ can be hard to decide between purple 3D, bare 3D, grey 219B, grey 5A, copper SST-20, purple 219C, and FW1A. Plus, of course, all the other lights on my deskā¦
Steel can be pretty nice, as long as weight isnāt importand and the LEDs inside arenāt turned up too high.
In a FW3A, Iām guessing a steel version would probably regulate down to the regulation floor, and then mostly just stay there. Steel is good at keeping the heat in, so the highest sustainable level is probably just a couple hundred lumens.
maba, I said it on FB, but Iāll say it here, too. Thanks for the pics! Looking forward to this one. Iād really like to see how it compares to the SC64 and S2+.
Iāve been introduced here by stephenk from a post on Light Painting Blog.
As a lightpainter, from what Iāve read, I think FW1A is one of the best flashlight to have in our arsenal. Especially because of AndĆŗril and its new momentary strobe feature.
Could someone tell me if the FW1A has the new July update of AndĆŗril firmware?
I read FW3A/1A drivers arenāt updated yet by Lumintopā¦