I have a NightWatch Seeker NS22 SSt40 (one of my favs), it out throws my Kaidomain C8 XHP35 to my surprise.
This is with a 41mm head, compared to the C8s 45mm head, so it does it with a smaller reflector.
The odd thing it at around 10ft distance the C8 seams to have a bit tighter/brighter hot spot, so I expected it to throw farther.
For $20 I can buy another - God knows these will be better than each of the $30 3D Cell Mags I have bought - I guess it will be a good test.
When looking at Simon’s store - I do not see an option for the SST-20, only the XPL HI, Nichia 219C, and the SSt40 (which only comes in 5k or 6500) Can you link to which you would recommend and its config if there are options on the page
A car bag, bugout bag, Zombie Apocalypse bag, etc., are all typically going to get neglected, so it’d be best to have long-life primary cells in there, like ’123s or lithium primaries, else low-discharge NiMH cells like eneloops or amaloops.
And never ever ever ever ever use alkaleaks in any lights.
Regular Li cells aren’t suited to temperature extremes inside a car, from freezing in the winter to baking in the summer.
Yeah, I know that the heat here in Georgia would be no good for the Li batteries… I have a box of 123’s singles and double stacked for use in the lights.
The SST40 will have a bigger hot spot then the XPL-HI, so yes more floody if using the same reflector.
But its also twice the lumens, so it will throw surprisingly far. Very similar to the XHP35.
So what I heard was the xpl-hi has more a concentrated spot, and doesn’t generate as much heat or drain as the sst40. That’s what I heard in some reviews anyway, not sure about the validity of it though. That’s why I initially ordered the xpl-hi version. I ended up just ordering a second one as well, a SST-20 4000k version, I was told to ask Simon to swap the led in the order notes. Hopefully that works as intended
For walking/hiking, my preference is for headlamps. I like to keep my hands free so that my arms can swing with my normal gait.
As an amateur photographer, I have a strong preference for high CRI 90+ and neutral tint, around 5000K. Theses days, I do my best to get these, otherwise, no sale. But these are subjective choices where there is no right and wrong. The only thing that matters is what you like. Unfortunately, the best way to find out what floats your boat is to try out a few flashlights and see! That means spending cash on a few lights you may end up not using.
If you plan to take pics or vids using the illumination of your flashlights, you need to worry about something called PWM (pulse width modulation). None, is best, with high-frequency as a possible second best. Frequency needs to be high compared to your shutter speed and/or frame rate.
My EDC is a tiny AAA model, the Astrolux A01, that I fuel with NiMH (Eneloop). 'Natch, it's got both high-CRI and 5000K, and virtually disappears in my pants pocket. For nighttime outings when I do not anticipate needing a flashlight, I carry a second EDC, the Kronos X5.That one runs on a Li-ion 14500 battery. I like it because of its small size (14500 is the same size a AA), and it has a bit more throw than your typical 18650 tube light. Fits easily in a jacket pocket. 'Course, when I am planning a real nighttime outing, I use my ZebraLight H600Fd III headlamp. It's another one that has high-CRI and 5000K, and it's currently on sale for "only" $69. (I think it's going to be discontinued soon.) Along with the Zebra, I carry a ThorFire C8s, a C8 model that I like, but nevertheless would not buy today. Instead I would get one of the high-CRI, neutral-tint SST40 models mentioned above. For indoor use and/or close work, I like the perfectly smooth beam of a zoomie set to flood. Were I shopping today, I would get the Jaxman Z1, XHP50, warm white. Not high-CRI, but you can't always get what you want. From what I can tell here, the Z1 has a kind of sucky UI, as well. Maybe I need to do more thinking about that one.
For a bug-out bag, we're talking about flashlights that will be little used. Therefore, fancy bells and whistles (i.e., high-CRI, neutral-tint, no PWM) are low priorities that are probably not worth spending money on. In my car, for instance, I have a Nitecore P12GT, running on 18650, backed up by CR123A primary batteries. Low-CRI, but I don't care. More important is the orange diffuser/traffic wand that Nitecore sells as an accessory.
BTW, I like what Lightbringer said about using lithium primaries or rechargeable NiMH for lights in a bug-out bag. As far as I know, the problem with rechargeable Li-ion and the hot sun of a vehicle is not that stuff explodes. The issue is degradation. Battery internal resistance rises. 'Course, this is the Internet, and I am not a flashlight engineer, so take my advice with a grain of salt!
All of the lights mentioned above were purchased a couple of years ago, so the rationales for my choices are more relevant than the specific models. Hope this helps.