@anyone who has theirs, does this light have the good FETs or the new ones they are using on the FW3A now?
What’s the difference / how to you identify one from the other?
Oh that’s a shame it won’t take protected cells, that was why I ordered one, never mind.
Mine is listed as shipped left China
i am very sorry for that - it will be a topic on my visit in china next week for sure!
Lol, and I didn’t buy it because it was so long…
Being able to take a protected cell was also the reason I planned to buy this light. But given the conflicting information, I didn’t pull the trigger. I’ll now just wait for V2. Hopefully they will also add the ability to control the button light.
that was indeed a bad move… why? was somewhat interested but this also only non-protected its a pass then.
Oh no, i have just two lights on the way…. 
They should really offer longer tubes for the buyers which bought with the information provided first.
You have to look at more than total length. It’s the distribution of all parts.
They may have decided to eliminate protected cell fitment to prevent the power cutting off when using Turbo. People might start complaining about that. With a high current light, you need a high current protected cell of which there are not many.
Martin, did you have any issues with protected cells cutting power on Turbo?
I agree with that. Even with a 35E my FW3A SST-20 still draws 11A. Still a pity that I can’t use my button top unprotected NCR18650GA cells in the FW3A. So I doubt they will fit in the EDC18.
It’s not hard to remove a button top. There is a flat top cell under there.
I know, but it’s still a pain in the ass to remove the spot welds that gets left behind on the original cell’s contacts. I thought this would have been the perfect light for those cells. Something else will come along at some point I guess.
I received my EDC18 about 2 hours ago: https://photos.app.goo.gl/dLFGDynsBdLprHst6
First impressions… I really like it.
Deep carry pocket clip.
Switch feels great. Much firmer than the FW3A and D4. Accidental pocket activation is highly unlikely.
My button top unprotected* NCR18650GA cells from Kaidomain DO FIT!
Tail magnet is decent.
Bezel is not easy to remove.
I can likely buy a light from those who don’t want them after the change.
The good ones are infineon and have a talon on them if I remember right. Possible consequences quoting from the FW3A thread: It depends on it’s quality. I have no clue how good or bad this new FET is. On really high powered lights, 30A+, cheap ones might burn up and fail, but the FW3A doesnt pull many amps. Sometimes cheap FETs will leak current and make the LEDs glow all the time. This can be an issue if the parasitic drain is high, but if it’s low enough, it’s no big deal.
None of this is confirmed, and I am just curious.
May you please explain how to do it? Also share any tips and tricks if you have any.
just firmly press against a flat rubber and unscrew
Yes, that. This is a great little light. I’m definitely gonna carry this over the FW3A.
You just need a good picture of the FET to identify it. Lexel knows FETs really well and can identify them easily.
Here is one of Lexels pics of the stock FET. Best pic I can find.
The new FW3A FETs probably have different markings on them.