It does when you install a lexel board for a D1 “indirect” setup*
*you do have to drill one hole in the head
Looking Sharp Fat Controller!
Waiting for beamshots!
Just received the 3030 gaskets today, now wait for the 22mm 14x 7135 driver to put in my L21A
I made some long overdue changes to my modding area. It has moved from taking up about 1/3 of the kitchen table to this adjustable height sit/stand desk! Still a lot of cleanup and organizing to do but it’s much nicer already than what I had.
LOOOL I'm still fighting with my wife about kitchen table :) Only i have 50% of the table...
Thank you, I might try this when I get my FF E01.
Just be sure you request he installs the LED’s facing up, typically on the indirect boards he would solder them at 90 degrees.
Good to know, thanks. Did you change the firmware to the real Anduril or did you just connect the aux leds to the switch leds?
They’re fully MCU controlled, I had flashed real anduril literally on day 1 of owning it lol.
I hate the waiting part! but those 14x 7135 seem to work ok i have one in my Jax only issue is they seem to cycle in strange order Low, High, Medium
Hmm, we’ll see
It says Manta Ray…
Popped a white flat 1 into a SF14v2 for experimentation, no bother focusing and still impressive…
Astrolux S1 XP-L HI, Sofirn SF14v2 SST-20-W, SF14v2 CSLNM1.TG
6ft hotspot comparison
Update! cell phone tested (lux meter app) with a charged & rested EBL 14500,
15kcd startup & 13.9kcd at 30 seconds. 1.5amps at the tail, measured via thick cables and fluke dmm
Really nice. 
Alu weighs less than copper and if thermals are good enough it’s a perfectly fine choice. That said - I’m surprised as well.
Tool ti with 3000k sst-20. We will see if this one has less pocket activation than the copper tool with clicky.
Is it twisty or clicky with a flush button?
Flush e-clicky
I think you might be confusing the model names, there’s no D25D that i’m aware of?
My pre-2015 D25A has a removable bezel, just unscrews to give access to the reflector and then the MCPCB. Bit tight in there for a soldering iron though so make sure you have patience and a thin soldering tip when you come to do it. (Learnt that the hard way :D)
That’s for the Alu version though, i believe the Ti is a one piece head. Jon_slider, maybe this is what you’re thinking of?
Edit: Oh, and it’s a 14mm MCPCB.
I never thought to use a flip-flop, even hand held it’s so much easier than the piece of rubber i’ve been using, top tip!
Loads of good tips and info in this thread btw, and i’m in awe of so many people’s skills and creativity, and patience! I generally refrain from commenting though else i’ll sound like an over-excited fanboy.
D25C is probably what was meant, rather than D25D.
I was told the D25A had a press-fit pill by someone, so I never bothered to pick one up. Can’t recall who said it, though I think they were talking about cracking some part of a D25A Ti
Edit: Read from here
Oh yes, the D25C would make sense!
As far as the A goes, even though Djozz is talking about the Ti version i suspect the Alu version also has the press-fit pill, the difference is that the Alu version has a removable bezel which gives some access to the LED whereas the Ti version doesn’t. (From what i’ve read, never had the Ti version to check).
Edit: Just realised Djozz mentions his D25A Ti on the previous page, didn’t see that until after i replied.