Flush e-clicky
I think you might be confusing the model names, there’s no D25D that i’m aware of?
My pre-2015 D25A has a removable bezel, just unscrews to give access to the reflector and then the MCPCB. Bit tight in there for a soldering iron though so make sure you have patience and a thin soldering tip when you come to do it. (Learnt that the hard way :D)
That’s for the Alu version though, i believe the Ti is a one piece head. Jon_slider, maybe this is what you’re thinking of?
Edit: Oh, and it’s a 14mm MCPCB.
I never thought to use a flip-flop, even hand held it’s so much easier than the piece of rubber i’ve been using, top tip!
Loads of good tips and info in this thread btw, and i’m in awe of so many people’s skills and creativity, and patience! I generally refrain from commenting though else i’ll sound like an over-excited fanboy.
D25C is probably what was meant, rather than D25D.
I was told the D25A had a press-fit pill by someone, so I never bothered to pick one up. Can’t recall who said it, though I think they were talking about cracking some part of a D25A Ti
Edit: Read from here
Oh yes, the D25C would make sense!
As far as the A goes, even though Djozz is talking about the Ti version i suspect the Alu version also has the press-fit pill, the difference is that the Alu version has a removable bezel which gives some access to the LED whereas the Ti version doesn’t. (From what i’ve read, never had the Ti version to check).
Edit: Just realised Djozz mentions his D25A Ti on the previous page, didn’t see that until after i replied.
So, almost not worthy of mention… I have a Shadow JM20 that I dearly love, years ago I dropped in the XM-L2 4C but it always seemed underdriven. The factory springs are what I blamed, finally swapped in a set of BLF Gen. 3 springs, got just over 1 amp more out of the driver!!!
I also swapped the horribly cold emitter in my Sofirn SC31B, I installed an SST-20 4000k FD2 and it is wonderful now. This is really a very good light, the switch is stiff enough and recessed enough to carry in your pocket and at basically 4 amps it will not set your pocket on fire on high! The reflector in this light is about as perfect for the SST-20 and one could hope for, the beam is super clean!
Where did you order the 22mm 14x7135 board? I need to get ahold of one of those and Mountain is out.
thanks, youre right D25C and D3C have bezels
D25A and D3A I think have pressed pills, and no bezel
Old rotor , new knife .
Awesome.
Looks orsm Rdubya18. Have you made any others?
Thanks , first from a rotor.
I never would have thought of making a knife from a rotor! Nice!
That’s where i ordered it as well. It even got cheaper, i paid almost a dollar more 
it’s a good little driver for the money . personally prefer the P4000 it gives almost the same current on 1 cell but you have the option of adding a second cell, just in case ‘SHTF / teotwawki’
you’ll need a 20mm to 22mm adapter for the P4000 but its no biggie here’s the links to both
Either choice is a good choice I’ve abused both and they’re both still going strong
I like that, have you tried a bearing race?
Yes to the latter, but it’s the older (somewhat ugly) Ti model. Still the same.
I’m about cooling the brass down. Glue should crack when the brass shrinks. Will the electronics and the glass survive a normal kitchen deep freezer? Otherwise I’d have to get cooler spray to apply it carefully to the thread, only cooling down some outside material.
Simple LED swap on FW3T, from XPL-HI 3D into Nichia 219F.
Preparation…
Nichia 219F on Noctigon. I like the way Clemence build the pill container.
And found how THICK the stock MCPCB is. I need to add a spacer.
Soldered and added GITD tape on head’s inner wall.
To be honest, this is the worst soldering job I’ve ever done. I think my soldering iron need replacement, the heat wasn’t maximum.
And done…
3000K and rossy!
No , haven’t tried a bearing race . Maybe after I finish this one , I’ll look into that . Thanks for the idea . I have been recycling / repurposing materials when I can figure a use for them.