What did you mod today?

Oh yes, the D25C would make sense!
As far as the A goes, even though Djozz is talking about the Ti version i suspect the Alu version also has the press-fit pill, the difference is that the Alu version has a removable bezel which gives some access to the LED whereas the Ti version doesn’t. (From what i’ve read, never had the Ti version to check).

Edit: Just realised Djozz mentions his D25A Ti on the previous page, didn’t see that until after i replied.

So, almost not worthy of mention… I have a Shadow JM20 that I dearly love, years ago I dropped in the XM-L2 4C but it always seemed underdriven. The factory springs are what I blamed, finally swapped in a set of BLF Gen. 3 springs, got just over 1 amp more out of the driver!!!

I also swapped the horribly cold emitter in my Sofirn SC31B, I installed an SST-20 4000k FD2 and it is wonderful now. This is really a very good light, the switch is stiff enough and recessed enough to carry in your pocket and at basically 4 amps it will not set your pocket on fire on high! The reflector in this light is about as perfect for the SST-20 and one could hope for, the beam is super clean!

Where did you order the 22mm 14x7135 board? I need to get ahold of one of those and Mountain is out.

thanks, youre right D25C and D3C have bezels
D25A and D3A I think have pressed pills, and no bezel

Old rotor , new knife .

Awesome.

Looks orsm Rdubya18. Have you made any others?

Thanks , first from a rotor.

I never would have thought of making a knife from a rotor! Nice!

I ordered it from Here

That’s where i ordered it as well. It even got cheaper, i paid almost a dollar more :money_mouth_face:

it’s a good little driver for the money . personally prefer the P4000 it gives almost the same current on 1 cell but you have the option of adding a second cell, just in case ‘SHTF / teotwawki’

you’ll need a 20mm to 22mm adapter for the P4000 but its no biggie here’s the links to both

p4000

adapter

Either choice is a good choice I’ve abused both and they’re both still going strong

14x 7135 22mm

I like that, have you tried a bearing race?

Yes to the latter, but it’s the older (somewhat ugly) Ti model. Still the same.

I’m about cooling the brass down. Glue should crack when the brass shrinks. Will the electronics and the glass survive a normal kitchen deep freezer? Otherwise I’d have to get cooler spray to apply it carefully to the thread, only cooling down some outside material.

Simple LED swap on FW3T, from XPL-HI 3D into Nichia 219F.

Preparation…

Nichia 219F on Noctigon. I like the way Clemence build the pill container.

And found how THICK the stock MCPCB is. I need to add a spacer.

Soldered and added GITD tape on head’s inner wall.

To be honest, this is the worst soldering job I’ve ever done. I think my soldering iron need replacement, the heat wasn’t maximum.

And done…

3000K and rossy!

No , haven’t tried a bearing race . Maybe after I finish this one , I’ll look into that . Thanks for the idea . I have been recycling / repurposing materials when I can figure a use for them.

I sliced two more LEDs today and made a quick video since a few pages back some questions came up how to do it.

My post with video link and a few extra details not described in the video: Video showing how to slice the dome off an LED with washers

Video:

Very neat, a nice karambit :+1:

beads on left under incandescent, beads on right illuminated by V10r Ti w E21a 3500k:

V11r head @ 0.01 lumens w E21a 3500k

V10r Ti w 4000k XP-G2

click for beamshots of E21a 3500k in V10r Ti and V11r

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