Oh yes, the D25C would make sense!
As far as the A goes, even though Djozz is talking about the Ti version i suspect the Alu version also has the press-fit pill, the difference is that the Alu version has a removable bezel which gives some access to the LED whereas the Ti version doesn’t. (From what i’ve read, never had the Ti version to check).
Edit: Just realised Djozz mentions his D25A Ti on the previous page, didn’t see that until after i replied.
So, almost not worthy of mention… I have a Shadow JM20 that I dearly love, years ago I dropped in the XM-L2 4C but it always seemed underdriven. The factory springs are what I blamed, finally swapped in a set of BLF Gen. 3 springs, got just over 1 amp more out of the driver!!!
I also swapped the horribly cold emitter in my Sofirn SC31B, I installed an SST-20 4000k FD2 and it is wonderful now. This is really a very good light, the switch is stiff enough and recessed enough to carry in your pocket and at basically 4 amps it will not set your pocket on fire on high! The reflector in this light is about as perfect for the SST-20 and one could hope for, the beam is super clean!
it’s a good little driver for the money . personally prefer the P4000 it gives almost the same current on 1 cell but you have the option of adding a second cell, just in case ‘SHTF / teotwawki’
you’ll need a 20mm to 22mm adapter for the P4000 but its no biggie here’s the links to both
Yes to the latter, but it’s the older (somewhat ugly) Ti model. Still the same.
I’m about cooling the brass down. Glue should crack when the brass shrinks. Will the electronics and the glass survive a normal kitchen deep freezer? Otherwise I’d have to get cooler spray to apply it carefully to the thread, only cooling down some outside material.
No , haven’t tried a bearing race . Maybe after I finish this one , I’ll look into that . Thanks for the idea . I have been recycling / repurposing materials when I can figure a use for them.