FW3A mod thread. Post yours!

What size trit vials fit these fancy titanium clips from Neal?

1.5x6mm

Thanks! :+1:

Did you change the anodization? Could be the lighting, but that looks to be hard anodized.

What size screws did you use for the clip?

It’s hard Titanium…

2-56 or 4-40 (depends if at first you don’t succeed) with roll/form tap not cut tap… I get thru work…

. Like these….Taps – Thread Forming – OSG HY-PRO | TiConnector

what are the compatible driver and emitter size? and what are some good sources to obtain them? any in US? or is kaidomain the best bet?

anyone have experience with these?

i need a driver to drive these…

This light doesn’t have any third party drivers available right now. It’s designed to run three LEDs in parallel all at once, so the multicolored board you linked wouldn’t really work.

I would like to replace both the emitter and driver.

JC (from JC Customs) is putting boards with secondary emitters in the FW3A. I know he’s been recompiling Anduril to allow control over the secondaries.

Not sure what board he’s using though.

Link to pic (can’t get it to embed, sorry)
Imgur

It’s the mtn electronics triple board. Afaik he either doesn’t share his source or no one that owns one has asked for it. We have discussed it already

Supposedly it’s just a flag that needs to be set in the source code. I haven’t downloaded it myself in order to see how easy it is to read (and compile).

Had a extra FW3A carcass/parts laying around…. guppydrv3 and one of Neven’s lighted tail caps…

Meh… it will make a decent knock around/work light… :smiley:

I am surprised, no flashlight out there uses triple led and has same form factor?

Made stainless steel button ring for protecting against accidental activation.

Wow! How did you make that!

I have big 60 year old lathe at work. Used piece of stainless steel bar. Will glue it to flashlight and see how I like it.

How can you make more! I need one!

For anyone who may have missed it… there’s really a simple, cheap, and effective switch boot mod for reducing - or in my case eliminating - accidental activation.

Carefully disassemble the tailcap, keeping track of the ‘nubin’ (tiny, tiny plastic cylinder) but removing it. Then filling the cavity in the rubber boot with a thin rubber disc. I used an random o-ring and sliced piece of silicon wire insulation. I’ve found the best results with a flush fill level. I can imagine slicing a pencil eraser with a razor blade would be a simple DIY option for almost anyone willing to attempt the mod. Reversible and nearly free. Quiets the switch a bit too, but YMMV