I just took a tint measurement at turbo and got this:
CCT: 4137K
DUV: –0.0024
CRI (Ra): 73.1
R9: –18.5
Rf: 70
Rg: 97
Ra: 73.1
5D is still one of my favorite tint. Looks very perfect neutral white at night time with no hint of yellow when my eyes are adjusted to the 2700K-3000K house lights.
I was tired last night and just wanted to share my results.
The + goes to I+ on the driver, the - goes to G. I tried to bridge R4 but I believe it may be possible to solder the + directly to the furthest pad of R4 (from I+) and have it work.
1. Disassemble the front of head- remove optics, desolder the big red/black wires connected to the mpcb that poke through the middle hole from the driver
2. Remove reverse polarity protection ring by prying and then unscrew the driver.
3. Solder wires to the lighted board/your aux led. Solder those wires through the hole in the mpcb shelf and to the board in the aforementioned positions. Leave a couple inches of wire. (Too much and you’ll have to cram the wires in later, too little and they’ll be too short)
Test everything!
4. Pull the two original thick cables through the mpcb hole. I did this buy soldering a thin wire to the tips of both thick wires to help me pull them through. I can draw a diagram if someone wants it (send me a pm).
Yeah, it’s glued. I pried mine off with the back end of a nail so I could remove the retaining screws and the driver.
It’s also pretty inconvenient to take out the optics and unsolder the MCPCB wires before reflashing, so I almost never do it. I hope if there’s ever an updated version, it’ll have convenient reflashing access.
My buddy says he is going to gift me his D18, the one I swapped in LH351D’s, so I will have the entire Intl-Outdoor collection. He says it can sit over here gathering dust as easily as at his place. Lol
Lately my favorite way to use soup-can flooders is to remove the optics so it runs in mule mode, then ceiling-bounce it for photo fill lighting. I only run it at ~6000 lumens for a few seconds per shot, but it sure is handy having so much omnidirectional light to eliminate the shadows.
Here are a couple shots taken that way, at night, with a single flashlight as the only light source. I just grabbed a couple random items to use for test shots:
Just wondering how many people have measured the lumens of their D18s, perhaps with SSTs?
In my quasi-calibrated sphere I get 15-18k lumens depending on the cells I use (brand new VTC6 and 30Q or older VTC6) with mine which has 5000k SST-20s.
The VTC6 are clearly more powerful but just wondering if it’s likely this light is putting out slightly more than the claimed 14k.
Absolutely in love with this light. Insane output in a lovely compact form factor and terrific build quality.
I say ‘quasi’ because it’s accurate with cool white lights, but I had to apply a different correction factor for neutral/warm white based on lights that I already have, so it shouldn’t be wildly inaccurate.
But again, is it fair to calibrate a light box with a small 300 lumen light and expect the box to be accurate in testing a 15-30,000 lumen monster? Radically different output between the calibration lights and real world lights.
My light box tested quite close when looking at the calibration light or similar small output lights, but correcting it to exactly match the calibration light costs several thousand lumens when testing a 23,000 lumen beast. Fair? Accurate? Who really knows… if I knew where to take Ham’r to test it on an actual sphere I’d do it and find out where reality is… but what company that owns a very expensive sphere is willing to test my creation? And so assumptions are made by necessity…