Sailing around the world need a distance safety light

After al suggestions above I still think you would be most happy with a thrunite tn40 or 42 and maybe the C version if you want to charge in your light.

The lep lights have a far to narrow beam. You will be waving it around like a lightsaber to see something.

Adhara,

How is the tint on the Maxtoch with no filter? Is it as blue/ saber like as the W30? (I love the saber look, yet my eyes choose warm > neutral > cool every time). Any difference in diameter/size of beam? The distances we are talking about are so far anyway, I don’t believe a small difference in throw would make any impact on my buying decision, unless that difference is significant. I love the W10 CRI beam tint posted in another thread…looks so nice! Now seeing the W30 is out there in high CRI, the tint feels like it could be the deciding factor. I am also seeing a premium for the CRI edition, narrowing the cost gap between the Xsword and W30 CRI. I’m interested in your take.

Thank you kind sir!

Joe

On the plus side, you could make the “fwooom fwooom” sound effects while doing that…

Still, “two is one, one is none”, especially out on the ol’ briny, so I’d get a WEP for looooong-distance throwing, a pair of big zoomies (Cometas/Z1s, Brynites, etc.) for medium distance throwing, and even a big honkin’ Q8 for closer more general-purpose use.

Could you clarify this? The Maxtoch web page Contactcr linked to says the light has an LED, not LEP, with 1900m throw. The Acebeam claims 2400m throw. Which model Maxtoch do you have, is it different from the linked one?

Maxtoch LEP

https://maxtoch.com/maxtoch-xsword-l2k-2000-meters-thrower-p0018-p0018.html

Help me out please, I am confused. :person_facepalming:

What does “LEP” stand for or mean??

I clicked the link & find no mention of “LEP”.

What am I missing??

Here’s an explanation from Weltool who also has a LEP light:

https://www.weltool.com/News-page1?article_id=69

Laser Excited Phosphur

That’s when you use strobe.

@ contactcr…. Thank you for the link… that explains a lot. :+1:

One more question. If someone clicked on the Maxtoch link and did not know that was a “LEP” light, what in the written description would tell them it was??
.

@ KB …. “Laser Excited Phosphors” … Thank you…. :beer:

I guess I ’b’ behind the times & cutting edge a mile or two. :smiley:

Yep… attached to your Minigun ……. :beer:

I have some experience with night time boating and I suggest you bring two, the reason is when it’s a calm, clear night, a reflectored thrower (like the TN42 or the lighter Astrolux/Mateminco FT02 or FT03/MT35mini) would be enough but when the weather gets foul, wet, and water splashing from waves, foggy, etc., a reflectored thrower will show you almost nothing but a wall of fog or droplets, then you be thankful an ashperic or LEP-type for penetration would be your best illuminating tool.

Hi.
EX Sailor from the ’50’s onwards. Mainly single.

Anything sticking out along any coast. If in half civilised areas.
will have a light on it.
“List of Lights”with Alphabet coding to suit. (I used K for Aust)
You should have. and Oceanic currents.
I did a lot in the Atlantic. North and South. Mainly North.
And sailed from Cape Town to Aust West Coast then round,
in the Early ’70’s in a 32 fter.
Single. Then you have NO responsibility for any others that way.

ust reef at night. Using a shaft alternator. Coupla panels and Wind Genny’s you won’t run out of steam.
But I suppose. on one of those lightweight boxes you’ll be concious of weight.
I went 32ft steel 8.5 ton of boat and rig etc. with another ton of fuel and stores.
To hold her down IN the water. By 1 1\2 inches on waterline.
Different style of sailing. But in any decent storm I know where I’d rather be.
Got through 2 x Cyclones so far. And brought up in the North Sea.

We found. Even in the 2000+’s that a 12v Spotlight used for shooting. was around the best.
While we found. Coastal. who needs more than a coupla hundred yards at most.
All on deck all alert. Spin on a dime.
A pencil beam is useless. Spread and broad centre spot is ideal.
The below unit is safer when incorporated with.

You dumb if you don’t have a Sonar unit too, even on a surface bouncer.
There’s a LOT more under the water than above.
Rocks often run out a lot further UNDER the water from Visible coast where you can’t see them.
and a shaft or towing generator keeps juice flowing.

Seriously. You doing that lap. Sonar for under (I’ve clipped 2 x Containers in shipping routes).
With a $2.500AUD Koden Digital Radar along with Shaft/Towing Alt. for night time.

24ish ft up stick will give, with a 24m unit. a good 8NM radii in good weather and 2 to 3 nm on Other Boats. Steel reflections better than Plastic.

That extra $7ish grand. WILL keep you much safer. Coastal and anywhere shallow water abounds.

There is a listing here somewhere. with OUTPUTS,beams and ranging of all to around $10k lights.
These torches mentioned are in bottom 5% if that list. Somebody here should be able to point you.

And. Keep bouncing with fairish weather. hey.

2flit, I just sent you a personal message. Calm seas and following winds.

You need a deckhand?

Yeah, this would be a great addition to a yacht! Though a bit more spendy than an FT03 :slight_smile:

Actually screw the W30 HI CRI, the beam is actually very cool temp at the center. Might as well get the W30 CW version or the Acebeam K75. Too bad there is no warm white throwers out there that would work better in the fog.

Acebeam claims the W30 4000K has better penetration in rain and snow. I’m going to assume that it’s a whole lot better in fog also or any type of moisture in the air. I’m not sure how they are measuring the 4000k but it doesn’t look like any other 4000k light out there. I think most would assume it’s down in the 2000+k range. Yellow is the best description. But still best for penetrating moisture in the air. Edit it is possible that acebeam did not write the copy here on amazon.com sorry the link doesn’t work

/ACEBEAM-W30-Tactical-Flashlight-Long-lasting/dp/B07TXYVQS3

This?

Just do it the easy way…

The 4000K is probably yellow because DUV is far above the BBL. It is nasty piss yellow. I rather have a 2000K on the BBL light than a 4000K with extreme positive DUV. Also I think it is the CCT that matters regarding being able to penetrate fog. So even though it is yellow light, 4000K is still 4000K.