You not gonna say how you got ground connected? We are in suspense. 
Oh, sure I will be happy to share. So I scraped the thread from body tube to head like a lot, and for extra assurance I penciled the head ground contact from mcpcb to head as well. Tested scraping a bit of hidden area on head inside near the lens and put it all back together to make sure it was reading 3.7 red lead and head. Then I started scraping head near the lens post closest to aux . Ran a short lead from aux to it. (You can see how I did the red and+ and L in earlier post)
This sounded easy but in reality it took a lot of trial and scraping. I also found the star near the lens post was bare. When I put the - lead there it would accidentally complete and bypass the control circuit and light the flashlight! I almost just solder it without testing it. That would’ve sucked. At the end I scraped it a bit higher and didn’t solder the aux board to anything (except the leads). The sequence of this mattered a lot as there were many small things I’ve done wrong and redo. If anyone wants a detailed instruction on how to do this exactly I can re-write this entire post to be clear.
So both screws were insulated from ground?
I’m still not sure where you found the ground, near your red arrows? Does the optic leg squish the wire end down to the bare shelf?
i didn’t use the screws to ground, and didn’t even reinstall one of them since it was touching an aux led. I also suspect they might not be grounded anyway. I found the head housing completely isolated. I scraped the heck out of the threads where the body meet the head, testing multiple times to finally get grounding to the head (i scrapped else where near the top), then scrapped roughly where i drew the red arrow for the aux ground. You need to be careful not to do it too low, as I said the star is bare near there too. You don’t want to end up grounding the star.
the optic leg doesn’t squish the wire (I originally had it routed that way, but it was shorting the star), I end up just having it get pinched by the aux board to touch the head housing. If this is not clear I can do some sketches showing what i mean after the weekend.
Does the D4 have a one piece head or a threaded in pill?
1 piece head
driver is kind of press fit in
I have destroyed on some parts on drivers the diode or resistor with a bolt hammering the PCB out through the middle hole
replacing them fix the driver easily
See, that’s the beauty. I wouldn’t know, because I didn’t remove it. The mcpcb toward the + terminal had nothing to holding it down, and I wouldn’t know how it would come out
For a German Customer I built a rainbow Aux for MF01
Outer ring of green full battery indicators off in picture
Wow!
Now I know what my MF01 needs.
It looks much better as the rainbow in my D4 because of the larger space and more LEDs.
Bump for Manker E14, may be able to reuse old D4 boards
depends who wants to test, but newer D4 boards use specially shaped holes with the rotated LEDs
but old stock D4 have 4 round holes, but less functions
Lexel, good to see you back! I was getting worried. 
Here’s a pic of the E14 III from my review
Based on Lexel’s D4 pic of the original boards from Post #11, it looks like the wires and screws are in different locations. Doesn’t look like it’ll work, unfortunately.
After having made one for my TO50R, I’m tempted to try one for the E14 III. I’ve come to rather like the aux boards. KawiBoy1428 has said the driver is glued in, so that’d be fun… 
seems those screws screw any design likely up, but then more space on the outer rim make it up
Is there a way to get an MF01 aux board at this time? I’m happy to buy second hand, prototypes, even unpopulated PCBs, I’m also fine having PCBs made if the design specs are open sourced somewhere.
Lexel has not been on this forum for over a year.
Yup, that’s why I’m asking. I’ve also posted a WTB, I’m aware that buying from Lexel directly probably isn’t possible at this time. I’d be perfectly happy with a second hand board.
Lexel has shared some boards on Oshpark but unfortunately not the MF01. Your best bet might be to contact Mateminco and ask if you could get the aux board for the MT18S. They’re the maker of the Astrolux MF01 and that’s their model number (assuming you intend the full size MF01 and not the MF01 Mini). They’re probably shut down for Chinese New Year at the moment though.
Cheers, does that mean that an MF01S aux board would be compatible with the original MF01 MCPCB and general body geometry? That should be easier to find.
Yes. MF01, MF01S and MF01X all uses same mcpcb and optics. In terms of “geometry” ofc.