I've never used an emitter with this low K value as I thought I wouldn't like it but it's not too bad for a little mule.
After seeing Djozz lantern post I decided to make a wee diffuser for it too from an old berocca tube.
It was recently a H03F with optional diffusor over the reflector, but it broke.
It had a SS bezel from a laser cutter and dc-fix milky foil.
And it had already a lexel-driver with narsil.
Now I have swapped the XM-L2 to a XHP50.2 3V. And I opened the bezel to a 45 degree opening as the original SS-bezel.
It makes around 2000 lumens at start, because the led-wires are original, that means thin and relative long. But it heats up quickly and I do not need more power.
And I repaired my SIOC8 programming clip. There were some bad connections.
Later I want to flash anduril with ramping-level of 50%.
I took out the SST40 and driver of my Convoy L21A and replaced it with a 22mm 14* 7135 driver and a Led4power mcpcb with a 1mm white flat and one of Simon his 3030 gaskets which i sanded down to get a better focus.
Result is a very impressive laserbeam (500+ kCd on a ~4V cell)
Nice combo Yokiami!
Maybe it is time to do what the Canadians did and have a dutch meet-up, next to a nice line of windmills to check out some throwers.
Next in line to mod:
Eagletac M25C2 Turbo - with XP-L Hi
I started to dislike 219C because of the Greenish tint, but after mixing CCT’s, I lowered the DUV without compromising on output and resorting to LEE filters. Same applies to SST20. Used the Bluesword lower DUV bins, and mixxed CCT. At the moment, only my Zebralight SC5C and SC600w Plus have Lee filters on them.
Last summer when camping I used this lantern mod (still without having made the roof, and it had a 1600K Luminus led that really was a bit over the top warm/orange) to light up the awning in front of the tent where we spent the evenings. Without being finished it already worked brilliantly. What I also noticed is that you tend to stare at your lantern, it appears natural to look at the light source, like you always look into a fire. So much more than with flashlights, a pretty important feature of a lantern is that it is pleasant to look at. That was actually the main reason to give it a roof, I like the looks of it and it looks finished.
Swapped the switch leds in my LT1 from 0603-amber to Luminus Cube 1600K 90CRI. A difficult solder job for a close to pointless change because the result looks almost the same, although slightly brighter.
I had to use a heatgun with narrow opening to do the reflow, which was new to me, never used it before. I learned how to not blow your led off the board, and how to not shift your switch .
As a finishing touch I slightly tilted the Thorfire “T”, for some Q8 nostalgia .
Without altering settings the current through the switch leds went down, from 442 microamps to 254, which is nice considering that they are a bit brighter too.
And of course the output went from narrow wavelength band amber to an actual spectrum with measurable CRI.
So in the end it became a bit brighter and it makes for a slightly better nightlight. Now on to finding out how the trimmer works.
I had one unused 10mm KD board with a Nichia 219C left.
BLF C01S with honeycomb optics (I have no longer any original C01S to compare) vs Nichia C01S with original optics. It was worth it, spot and color are much nicer now.
Luminus SST-20 J2 JA3 2700K 95CRI emitter
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