What did you mod today?

I took out the SST40 and driver of my Convoy L21A and replaced it with a 22mm 14* 7135 driver and a Led4power mcpcb with a 1mm white flat and one of Simon his 3030 gaskets which i sanded down to get a better focus.

Result is a very impressive laserbeam (500+ kCd on a ~4V cell)

Nice combo Yokiami!
Maybe it is time to do what the Canadians did and have a dutch meet-up, next to a nice line of windmills to check out some throwers.

Count me in

How is the windmill situation over there? :smiley:
(near Amsterdam not great)

Where i live, it’s peaceful and quiet.
You have to drive 40km Northeast for a large windpark.

Lights I recently modded:

Manker U11 - Quad Nichia 219C 90CRI (2 x 3000K, 2 x 5000K)
Eagletac M30LC2-C - Triple SST20 3500K
DQG Tiny 3th Black - SST20 (3000K + 3500K mix)
DQG Tiny 3th Grey - Nichia 219C 90 CRI (4000K + 5000K mix)
Noctigon M43 White - SST20 (6x 3000K + 6x 4000K)
Noctigon M43 Grey - Nichia 219C (6x 4000K + 6 x 5000K)

Next in line to mod:
Eagletac M25C2 Turbo - with XP-L Hi

I started to dislike 219C because of the Greenish tint, but after mixing CCT’s, I lowered the DUV without compromising on output and resorting to LEE filters. Same applies to SST20. Used the Bluesword lower DUV bins, and mixxed CCT. At the moment, only my Zebralight SC5C and SC600w Plus have Lee filters on them.

:slight_smile:

Then all you need is some bigger lenses/reflectors, and a tower to shine over the curve of the earth :wink:

What is the light on the right?

Fantastic build. I like it.

Thank you. I like it too.

Last summer when camping I used this lantern mod (still without having made the roof, and it had a 1600K Luminus led that really was a bit over the top warm/orange) to light up the awning in front of the tent where we spent the evenings. Without being finished it already worked brilliantly. What I also noticed is that you tend to stare at your lantern, it appears natural to look at the light source, like you always look into a fire. So much more than with flashlights, a pretty important feature of a lantern is that it is pleasant to look at. That was actually the main reason to give it a roof, I like the looks of it and it looks finished.

Swapped the switch leds in my LT1 from 0603-amber to Luminus Cube 1600K 90CRI. A difficult solder job for a close to pointless change because the result looks almost the same, although slightly brighter.

I had to use a heatgun with narrow opening to do the reflow, which was new to me, never used it before. I learned how to not blow your led off the board, and how to not shift your switch :person_facepalming: .

As a finishing touch I slightly tilted the Thorfire “T”, for some Q8 nostalgia :slight_smile: .

Without altering settings the current through the switch leds went down, from 442 microamps to 254, which is nice considering that they are a bit brighter too.

And of course the output went from narrow wavelength band amber to an actual spectrum with measurable CRI.

So in the end it became a bit brighter and it makes for a slightly better nightlight. Now on to finding out how the trimmer works.

https://indigo.lighting/shop/lights/indigo5

Out of this world! Awesome just awesome you are crazy with crazy beautiful ideas..

beautiful and unique as always!:)


Do you know what mcu is on the 14x7135 board?

Some really nice mods here guys. Thanks for posting them up and keep them coming. :+1:

In the pic it appears to be 10-pin and not labeled, so likely a de-labeled or knock off PIC. I’m not aware of any 10-pin attinys.

I had one unused 10mm KD board with a Nichia 219C left.

BLF C01S with honeycomb optics (I have no longer any original C01S to compare) vs Nichia C01S with original optics. It was worth it, spot and color are much nicer now.

(plus finally put an A6 driver into my C8 today)

All easy mods, but to much avail :slight_smile:

I have a crappy little headlamp/magnifier that uses 2 5mm leds. Years ago I changed the leds to Yuji 3200k hi cri and they were great! Just not quite enough output. The driver??? A single 22 ohm resistor and 3xAAA driving it. I added in parallel a 47 ohm resistor to up the driver current by about 25%. Much better now!

Old eyes suck! Just about to the point that I can’t or shouldn’t work with tiny SMD stuff.

Swapped SST-20 for sliced LH351D in FW1A and flashed latest Anduril just because. More output, much better tint, less R9:

All tests using 3.91V GA cell

steps 2,4,6,turbo:

SST-20 4K
25.28
127.3
360
735

SLICED LH351D 5K
28.11
145.8
447
1030

1x7135, max7135, turbo using stock AR lens:

CCT = 4024K (Duv 0.0010)
Color Rendering Index (Ra) = 91.8 [ R9 = 56.4 ]

CCT = 4264K (Duv 0.0016)
Color Rendering Index (Ra) = 89.3 [ R9 = 46.2 ]

CCT = 4433K (Duv 0.0001)
Color Rendering Index (Ra) = 88.6 [ R9 = 40.9 ]

Nice! I used my last (sliced) 5000K90CRI led in my Wildtrail D80V2 with similarly nice result: good output, good colour rendering, great tint.