idk why you are arguing what my preferences and opinions are on a purchase im going to make. its not like you are going to change my mind. at $16 i dont find this to be a better deal than a h30 for my uses and preferences.
im also not in a hurry to buy it, so why not wait till it drops in price like it has many times in the past? im just looking for a spot to catch said deals.
“lol”
During major AliExpress sale events, it does drop pretty low - the light alone will be about $9 around their annual November 11 sale event.
awesome. that $10 price tag isnt too bad either. ill keep an eye out around the 11th!
Sorry, bad choice using constant to describe the output. I meant to say that my cheapo Rayovac headlamp has very annoying steps when the output drops, but the D10 seems very linear and not noticeable.
Does this light have the motion activated mode like the RJ02? After a emitter swap I really enjoy the RJ02. So did my one of my brother in-law’s. He’s a mechanic and not a flashlight guy. You would have thought he struck gold when he found out he could wave his hand in front of it to turn it on.
I thought the RJ20 was the only one that had it, but I might be wrong.
The D10 doesn’t have an IR function, but another BLF user found what seems to be a combination of the D10 and RJ02: Headlamp with IR function and without flaws ? => Mix of Boruit RJ-02 and D10
You misunderstood me. I was not arguing with you at all. I was just sharing my opinion on those 2 lights.
Good host deserves good driver 
3 channel , stabilized modes, 10 level ramping, hidden strobes, 1click on-off. If interested, PM me 
That looks great, Quadrupel! Nice work.
In my opinion, using 7135 regulators is like driving with an old banger, a rattletrap. There are plenty of nice high power MOSFETs which can be used in linear mode, avoiding the less than ideal regulation of 7135s when PWMed and completely doing away with such undesirability.
Thanks for sharing. So it uses a dual board e-switch driver, could you share its dimensions? Diameter and total height. I wonder what other good e-switch drivers could fit inside.
To fix hardware is not big deal, real problem is to get proper firmware to run it. Ordered few pcbs with FET+1. Gonna try to run Anduril. Stock driver size 20.7x19mm.
Hello there, I just received my lamp and I’m preparing to replace the MCPCB/LED, what the easiest way to go about taking the old board out? I understand it is difficult do to the thermal glue. Any tips are appreciated.
I use needle nose pliers and carefully but firmly twist it loose. You can remove wires first and tuck them out of the way so they don’t get cut during the twist.
Did you build that driver or buy it? I’d like to know more.
Thanks for the help! I also bought a 60° TIR lens, what/how do I shave it down, I appreciate it
It will probably be a bit too tall and too big a diameter.
You can use a metal file, sandpaper, Dremel or grinder to reduce it’s size.
Unscrew the bezel, remove the reflector, turn it on for a few seconds in maximum mode and carefully rotate the star with curved pliers
Sorry, but sounds like bad advice. Turning it on for a few seconds will not build any heat. Even if left on max for several minutes it won’t do anything. Plus you risk cutting the wires which means more work to pull them completely out and extend them. This is all assuming the battery is removed. Cutting a led wire and shorting it with a battery installed could short the battery and probably burn up the wires. :confounded:
Maybe remove the battery, remove the wires from the star, tuck wires down in holes, heat the star with the iron, then try twisting. Maybe the heat will help soften the glue, but it’s unlikely. I think the heat will just sink into the flashlight body.
No, I’m not sorry … 
Tested on at least three lights … :+1: