Not sure, but it would probably at least need to be updated to support Anduril config files.
It really hasn’t had any meaningful updates since it was first written. Just barely enough to allow it to compile after changes in FSM.
Is anything known about the other colors of the 18350 tube?
I would like to have purple and copper.
The FW3A family has the upcoming addition: Stainless Steel !! …it will be called FW3S
Very good looking.
Of course it'll heat up quickly, but it's still tempting.
copper version the polished is sold out now according to lumintop on facebook.
according to statement by lumintop the short tubes won’t be available until further notice with other colors or materials than the standard gray fw3a unfortunately:
“We regret to tell at present, we have no plan for the blue/sand/raw/green/purple and titanium/copper short tubes yet. Because the total volum is not as much as the color grey version, so if we made the colors short tubes, the quantity will be less, thus the cost will be high.”
too bad 
fw3a and fw3t on holiday at the beach
Are they just willing to sell the bezels for tail-cap and head?
18350 tube does work with the first batch FW3A without any issues.
And the 18500 tube, and the SS bezel and the deep carry clip also work perfectly with the 1st batch of this light!!!
(P.S. nevermind the light temperature of the photo, it is not balanced and is under a lower than 4000K ceiling lights)
BTW:
Hi. Today I received my FW3A SST20. In the package there is warning to not dissamble the tailcap, but when I tried to unscrew it, it was very tight and I could not to remove it. Do you have idea if in the last batches of FW3A the tailcap is maybe glued?
It should have a retaining clip that holds down the tailcap parts. Look for a black ring.
I can’t just unscrew at all the taicap. Any suggestions? OOps 
it was just very tighten.
Finaly managed to unscew it.
you did read the notice to open the head to insert the cell and NOT the tailcap?
Mine was tight, but no glue.
Yes I know that. I wanted to just measure standby current and maximum power consumption with my battery so I needed to uncrew the tailcap. It was just very tight.
Oh I misread, I thought he was trying to get to the switch.
Could you take a photo of the body and the inner tube? I just bought mine and I can’t seem to make mine work. Not 100% sure if mine is a first batch FW3A but mine doesn’t have the retaining ring on the tailcap. Looking at the 18650 and 18350 inner tubes, the 18350 protrudes more.
Tried to use the inner tube both ways and I can’t fully screw down the tail or the head where the thicker rim(bottom part on the 18350 tube in the image) is positioned at. I don’t know if it’s an incompatible inner tube or I’m doing something wrong.
Any advice?
The inner tube should only work one direction, with the lip near the tail.
Is your oring under the lip on the smaller tube?
Tighten the tail cap first, then the head.
You can also tighten just the tail and then check to make sure the switch is working.
Yes, my oring is under the lip on the smaller tube. I also tightened the tail cap first and it didn’t seem to do anything. Tightening it down just brings it to this.
Sorry I’m not sure what you mean by
Could you elaborate?
I tried to remove the oring from the lip under the inner tube and I can tighten it down further, I get a blink so i guess there is power but clicking the switch still does nothing.
