I’ve soldered to NiMH batteries and it wasn’t pretty with my non-temperature-adjustable soldering iron. I’m definitely not keen on that idea with LiIon cells.
For indoor use and close work, I have a strong preference for smooth, wide beams. My favorite is a zoomie set to flood, but some sort of triple or quad LED using lenses, or perhaps a "mule" (i.e., a light with neither reflector nor lens) would do just as well.
Working on electronics and around the car screams headlamp. Hands-free is a big deal.
For almost any application, you can now get lights that have a good user interface, negligible power drain when off, high-CRI, neutral tint, and minimal or no PWM ("pulse width modulation"), so I tend to hold out for those as well.
Yes, I currently use the SK68 on flood for everything. Sometimes at close very close range it’s almost too bright, while a bit further away I occasionally wish it were wider and brighter. Longer run-time and not noticeably losing brightness after 30 minutes would be my other desired improvements compared to it. Otherwise I’ve generally been quite pleased with it, especially for $7 ?
Hands-free and roll-free are a big deal too, yes! I’ve held the SK68 in my mouth and that was neither comfortable nor tasty.
There are lots of great lights for different applications, but I am trying to be disciplined and get one great generalist. Or was that two? 
That's how it starts... just one or two. 
Coupla thoughts on the C01S…
The standard UI with High then Low isn’t my favorite. Missed the BLF version that starts on Low.
The beam is very tight with little spill compared to my other 1xAAA lights. My preference is for wider, floodier profiles on the little guys.
Still a nice light, and of course these factors could be positives or negatives depending on what you need.
I’m just a couple weeks into my flashlight adventure, and I ended up getting the following as my first flashlights.
BLF A6 - fantastic little light.
Convoy S2+ - also a great little light. I would suggest the biscotti ui though.
Convoy C8+ - amazing throw
Emisar D4Sv2 - wow. That’s all I can say about this one.
For edc I like the s2+ and A6 the best (in regards to what I own so far)
One more vote for the S2+. With the smooth reflector, it’s a general purpose beauty of just the right size, moreso if you pick a smaller LED like the 219C or (I figure) the SST-20. Just avoid the horribly outdated 3/5 firmware, that one is pants-on-head.
If you want a tube flashlight for indoor use then the S2+ with Biscotti, 4000k hi CRI led and 60° TIR for a clean wide even beam is perfect, and for using it with laptop pulls i'd go for 4x 7135 (1.4A max) that will give 400-500lm wich is imho far enough for that kind of use
Simon from Convoy flashlight Store will customize it for you if asked to.
A 90 angled light might be fine too but i have yet to see one with all these features and such low price out of the store (on the other hand an X1R Eagle Eye is cheap enough and can be modded easily)
Edit : BLF A6 and all the other hotrods are very nice and all but i would not use them with laptop batteries
Heres a reviewer using dollar store power bank battery pulls for BLF A6 testing, he even uses turbo
If you dont use the higher modes constantly itll work fine
Here is a BLF member a few days ago having a mode locked s2+ from biscotti. notice how folks are quick to recommend biscotti but dont answer if you get one of the problematic ones?
Its an issue that shows up every now and then
https://www.reddit.com/r/flashlight/comments/c83fsz/convoy_s2_memory_mode_stuck/
If you are one of the unlucky ones then youll need to reflash or replace the driver. Which means soldering or more hardware, and on the 6/8x7135 versions even more soldering
Which might be fine for a DIY flashaholic, but maybe not for an average consummer
If you like the sofirn SP40 or SC31b just go with those
I have both, the SP40 is on my desk right now … its a good value light
When you’re pulling spot-welded tabs/strips off cells like that, you’re almost always going to have a tailing left over. Either sharp that’ll cut up your thumb when you try feeling if anything’s there, or the leftover weld that may just be a raised bump, or anything in-between.
Either way, it’ll all but never be a perfectly flat top unless you take a jeweler’s file to it or something.
Sure, it won’t have a great contact area, but it’ll be under pretty high pressure over such a concentrated area that it will make solid contact. And with current shared across 4 cells, no single cell is going to be traumatised too much by current draw.
It sounds like you might like the YLP Panda 2M CRI The beam is so wide, smooth, bright, and beautiful that it’s my EDC right now. I need a headlamp every morning to unlock my bike, and since I rarely go back in the house after that, it just stays in my pocket.
Warm tint and high CRI are extremely valuable to me (YMMV), especially for electronics. The only thing I don’t like about this particular headlamp is that if I don’t twist the cap to lock it out, it does occasionally turn on in my pocket. It’s extremely unlikely to catch on fire, I just don’t want an unexpected dead battery.
Please, you make it sound so much harder than it actually is. Doing a driver swap on two Convoys was literally my first solder job ever and it turned out fine.
the C01s pocket clip is reversible, so it also works as a hatlamp
I use Eneloops, so the charger I suggested meets that need for me
the 18650 lights I suggested were to meet your criteria of 18650 power, they are inexpensive and capable of very low modes, which I find very useful
I would throttle them down so they never get too hot to hold,
by setting the thermal sensor to its minimum value
they can also be set to muggle mode, which similarly will prevent high heat
I have Zero interest in more than 600 lumens, more than that is not sustainable anyway.
I usually use less than 200 lumens and have no 18650 lights, they are too heavy for my EDC…
my criteria are,
- High CRI
- Low Weight (less than 100 grams with battery installed)
- aaa and 16340 are my battery choices… no AA, and no 18650 for me
I do think you are on the right track by specifying what battery size you want to use, that really helps focus your options, and adding a High CRI criteria, shortens the list significantly.
enjoy whatever you choose, youre getting plenty of suggestions
I hope you share your impressions once you have tried some lights
Please …
You make it seem like you need to fix your own brand new light
Now you need a soldering iron just to get a s2+ with biscotti issues to work properly now
I mean a normal consumer is looking for a light that works out of the box properly. Not a DIY fix it upper 
Or you could buy a light without that issue, or one where they actually have actual warranty beyond sending a new driver
Perfect first 18650 light. Low cost, how quality and very customizable if you message the Convoy Store. I have one with an OP reflector and SST-20 which I love. I actually want to build a S2+ host, just need to find a driver I like which would be compatible with 18650 or 2xCR123 operation.
There is no temperature setting on an adjustable iron that is lithium chemistry safe. I run as hot as possible to reduce solder time.
Won’t claim it’s advisable either way.
get a convoy s2+
maybe with biscotti
great light, cheap
keep it, use it for 6 months
then come back tell us what bugs you and what you like about it
good chance that could be your final light
for $16 you can;t do much better
you might ultimately prefer smaller, built in charger, different led color or beam pattern, different UI, or just more lights for whatever reason
but that would be a great start
wle
Great discussion!!
ValuseekeR I haven’t yet decided if I prefer a UI with H~~L or L~~>H. For a small actual EDC like the C01S I’m not sure it even matters. I’d think it’s most important if preserving night vision or dealing with very powerful lights. Do you have other small and lightweight AAA flashlights you recommend?
withoutink Thanks for sharing your firsts! Do you (and others) actually carry a 18650 flashlight on your person all the time? I’m not actually looking for an EDC, but if I do get one it will be something small that fits on a keychain, no bigger than the tiny AAA C01S.
Flying Luminosity That is terrifying, but it’s really unclear what happened in that explosion. In any case the one in my mouth was a NiMH AA and one aim of this 18650 flashlight research is to be practical enough not to need hands or mouth. Tailstanding, magnetic cap, 90 degree head, and/or headstrap, etc can all help with that. 
Jack Kellar buck91 One thing is amply clear: the S2+ sure is popular!
Kame Sennin I appreciate the numbers. I agree low current, medium lumens is most practical. What would you consider a safe current limit for laptop pulls? 4.8A was the max discharge current for these cells on the data sheet, and now with their age and increasing IR, the sustained current will be less. I noted some values for current draw from reviews. SP40
1347lm -> 3.11A, 453lm -> 0.99A. BLF A6 1512lm -> 6.17A, 1008lm -> 2.76A, 502lm -> 0.97A. So as long as the cells can provide at least 1-2A it looks like useful light output in the 400-500lm range and a bit beyond should not be a problem.
Bearbreeder You’re right, as much as modding might be fun, right now I have no intention of it. How do you feel about the CRI of the SP40? These beamshots of the SP40 4000K, 5300K, and Emisar D4v2 4000K CRI95 are interesting. And what would be your biggest complaints with the SP40?
Lightbringer Yeah those weld spot remainders are annoying but pretty minimal. Teslacom explicitly requires button tops. In any case, it’s not the kind of light I’m looking for at the moment.
manithree Great recommendation! The YLP Panda 2M CRI is the best contender against the SP40 so far. The smooth beam, compact size, moonlight, CRI, regulated output, and great reviews really give it some advantages. The only disadvantages I’ve found is the cost comes to about double the SP40 and it doesn’t have USB charging. Hmm… I’ll have to think. You made my decision more difficult. Thank you.
jon_slider I appreciate the suggestions and I also considered that higher powered lights might still be good choices if I use them on low/medium with the laptop pulls, and then still have the option to buy better fresh 18650s to enjoy high/turbos. On the other hand I’d like to be sure they won’t be a safety concern. However the most pragmatic lights for my main use cases aren’t focused on max lumens anyway. As for EDC, I like your criteria, plus I think I’d stick to AAA NiMH. What are your favorites in this category? I am enjoying this multitude of suggestions.
extremesquared I hope at least it wasn’t fully charged when you soldered! I won’t be trying it either way… Stay safe!
wle You’re right that there’s no substitute for first-hand experience with a light… which is why I’m making use of everyone’s in this thread. 
Fooey. In a pinch, I can even use flattops as long as the tops aren’t recessed. It squeezes the shrinkwrap, but still makes contact. So for my Q8 and DC7, I’m using BTs, but can use FTs if I had to.