Maybe i can do a quick how to video for those wanting to clip the pins & align the bail handle, and the easy way to get the o-ring back in place. (as that is tricky too. :partying_face:
That would be cool if you could do a quick vid
Or, a small carabiner, clip-ring or split-ring would have the same effect - the only cost would be the lantern hanging an inch or two lower and the price of a cheap carabiner.
It’s off 45º. So adding a clip ring would just put it off 45º the other direction, as you can see in my picture.
I will after next week do a video. :+1:
Ahhh… that makes if a little more interesting.
Have you seen the strange shapes you can bend an S hook into with a pair or two of pliers? For about $0.40 (zinc coated) to $1.50 (stainless) each you can make as many 45 degree twisted custom S hooks as you like.
I’m not going to argue that having the hook aligned like that is a touch weird… but there are answers that don’t involve breaking off the anti-twist protective tabs. Heck - I’m wondering if there’s enough slack in the bail to twist the tip without messing up the rest of its geometry.
Bending s-hooks would work well. It’s really not that big of a deal, and certainly won’t effect my usage of the lantern. But if it can be adjusted easily, then I’ll do it.
Yours look good. On mine (and I notice on some of the batch 1), the “6” & “7” have solders on them but were unsoldered (but still leaving solder residue)…
Have the same question, is this by design?
You need a swivel device. I’ve seen some just can’t recall the exact name. Set it at the position you want then wrap the swivel with some clear silicone tape to fix the position. ???
There is enough slag in the wires going to the MCPCB, but the wires are twisted in the driver cavity so you can not pull them upwards from above. You can unscrew the driver, untwist the wire bundel and then tighten the driver again. Then the top can be be lifted much higher and everything is in reach.
Anyone know? Where is this trim pot?
Check the other LT1 thread, the two have sort of crossed.
It is visible on the battery side of the driver. This post and a few before discuss it in a bit more detail.
Thanks guys
I was waiting to get a PM with my GB code. I never got one. This whole GB process was very confusing & it seems many people were able to “jump the line.” And now the 3,000 units allocated for the GB is closed? I saw that the auction listing for the version with batteries still had some inventory so I submitted an offer for it, but not hopeful… 
Success getting the bale lined up with the button. djozz had it right. Take the screws off the driver and un-twist the wires. Pull the bolt off the top and lift. With plenty of room, you see the two tabs DBSAR was talking about. It’s soft plastic. I just grabbed the tabs with pliers, snapped them off, then cut the left over tab with a sharp knife.
As DBSAR mentioned, the o-ring was a bit tricky to get back on. I rolled the o-ring down onto the shade, then slowly rolled it back up to seat on the top of the shade. Lined up the top cap and replaced the bolt.
Putting the driver back in, take a sharpie marker, and mark where the charging port is, so you can line it up. Twist the wires back up, line up the charge port, and put the screws back in.
Driver off, un-twist the wires
Pull up on top cap, and snip off the plastic tabs on the center post
Mark the charging port with a marker, twist the wires back, and install screws
Done
The first step by step LT1 mod!! Of course, DBSAR gets some of the credit here. Thanks for the pictures, i can see doing this soon.
DBSAR and djozz both get the credit ! Just remember, if and when you change the batteries, to grab the head around where the button is to unscrew the battery tube. If you grab it by the top cap, you risk twisting it since the stopper tabs are no longer there.