Th558 above says should be 22.5A or better - not sure how he knows that. The Shockli won't be "better", if better means higher amps at full charge. Did you look at the discharge curves from HKJ's comparator?
There's a tendency by some around here to recommend the Shockli as the best battery ever, but clearly it's no where near the performance champ for the first few seconds at full charge. It's got great discharge characteristics though over the full discharge cycle, making it a great candidate for general use - again, not for max output use in the short run.
I can deal with a “few seconds” just not 10-60 seconds haha. We’ll have to wait until output over time graphs come out for the NI40 using diff batteries to show just how sharply the curve begins.
Yes, I looked at the comparator curves but it’s not entirely clear to me still.
Well for these kind of lights that are FET driven, higher voltage on those curves mean higher amps, which means higher lumens/throw. It's not a direct relationship however, so doubling the amps doesn't mean doubling the lumens - it's lower than double, and at higher amps, it could be much lower than double. Basically you lose efficiency the higher the amps are. So we tend to push the LED's way past their rated max, and once you get into that territory, the gains are less. I'm sure heat is a factor in the reduced output.
For the batt discharge curves, we want to see the voltage as high as possible for the full discharge. If you look at various know good cells vs. avg cells, at differing amp levels, you can see the better cells will have higher voltage curves.
Take a look at a Samsung 30Q vs. a 30T, then look at the 1A level, then the 20A level. At 1A, almost the same, but at 20A the 30T far exceeds the 30Q. Those 0.2V/0.25V differences makes a big difference in amps.
Ahh, ok. The charts on page 7 here: SBT90.2 LED Spec. They kind of end at 22.5 amps, and it seems like the Vf would be low enough to be obtainable on a good FET driver. We'll have to see. I'm wondering now about the Acebeam TK75 getting a rated 6300 lumens. They would have to hit at least 30 amps to do so. Specs could be overrated.
To me, this light may very well need a GOLISI cell. The amps out of a single cell is crazy, about as much as my triple XHP50.2 3V Amutorch X9, custom modded of course... I hit just over 30 amps on a GOLISI in that light. But i also get about double the lumens (11K-12K or so).
Without some kind of high current spacer no one should expect such a high current light to support both sizes. The size difference is just too big to maintain proper contact for both sizes.
Even bypassed springs will work better when there is higher spring pressure on the terminals. All things equal the shorter battery will always be inferior in such a setup. They need to just stop advertising support for both.
Are the Golisi 4300, Aspire 4300 and Shockli 4300 the same cell? According to HKJs graphs the Shockli seems a bit worse than the Golisi in the first 700mah. Are they normal variations in performance or are they different cells?
Edit: Mooch says the iJoy, Aspire and Golisi appear to be the same cell though in HKJs test the iJoy seems to perform a bit worse than the Shockli/Golisi.
Not sure - I wouldn't trust those Shockli's though. Yes, definite differences there - look at capacity differences as well - Shockli's test higher. I got a whole bunch of 26650 cells. The iJoy 4200's do pretty good, but less than the Golisi's.
Wow, the Soshine 32650 blows away the Golisi, and the 30T for that matter... Hhhmmm.
Is that from a reputable dealer? With a quick search for golisi cell on google, a lot of vape stores pop up. But who knows if they are the real deal cells.
After doing some calculations… I have come the conclusion that the Golisi/Aspire should be around 20% brighter (over 5A more) than the shockli. Might be more. Who knows? but I don’t like being too optimistic about things like this. Don’t wanna end being disappointed. Oh yh and thanks for the recommendations @BaronVonEissler.