The cells will be “balanced” nearly instantly once the connection between they is made. They’re in parallel. They act as one big cell and will all be at the same voltage.
That was with one of the batteries reversed (which is bad news and luckily there are some safety features for that, like a collapsable spring and ultimately the internal battery fuse), it was not a case of correctly inserted batteries at different charge states.
The balancing will not be nearly instantly, it takes time to charge the lower voltage cell.
I meant when tested individually.
Even brand new, two cells of the same model will not be exactly the same. My point is that there is a “fudge factor” and we can calm down a bit about less than perfectly matched cells IN THIS LIGHT (emphasis added for future clarity). Anyone concerned enough about this can either:
A) buy the lantern with Sofirn’s cells and keep them together in the light (good value)
B) buy new matching cells of another variety and keep them in “married” sets (possibly best performance by utilizing 3500mah cells)
If you aren’t concerned about slight differences, carry on with your laptop pulls or whatever…
I purchased some sets of these a while back, and haven’t used them elsewhere so they are what I’ll be using:
These are probably a better value today:
I don’t like how vendors exaggerate the rating on GAs, but I agree that they are a good match for this application. I heard that $6 more will get you a set with matching LT1 covers, but I forget where that was.
NOTE: for anyone who used the flat tops with the slightly raised positive top cap on the cells that does work in the LT1, be VERY careful of that trim-pot just inside the ring on the driver. when threading the base back on, the wrapping on flat top cells will be extremely close to that trip pot, and can actually rub/hook onto it, either tearing the wrapping or breaking the trim-pot off the driver. I tested some of my flat top cells, and a couple of them actually scraped on that trip pot.
Good point. Personally I find the clearance with those cells to be too tight for my own personal comfort level. Which is why I bought some sets of button top 35E’s from mtnelectronics back in midsummer.
I got my lantern in today and i’m very happy with it, thank you for your great work DBSAR and Sofirn for producing.
Only when i’m changing the tint at one end of the scale i have full NW, and when i’m reversing it goes to full WW but then jumps to full NW. is this a bug or is the code written like this?
In the video the phone automaticly compensates the tint after a second, but you see the flash.
# this is the changeover to auto tint
I’m sure that’s an intended function, since the auto tint ramping can happen in both directions where top of the ramp for auto tint is either NW or WW, and bottom of the ramp is WW or NW, respectively.
At least that’s how I remember Toykeeper describing how the auto tint ramping worked, that it could go both ways.
In mine the tint ramping is in the same way buggy too, I did not mention it before, it is just not that annoying. But I agree it could be some bug in the firmware.
Yeah, it seems to be an intended function which doesn’t initially make sense until you check the UI flowchart. When you hit the end of the tint ramp in either direction, the blink and sudden change in temp means you’re in auto tint ramping.
If I’m understanding the chart correctly, at the end of the neutral white tint ramp, the blink and color change means that at the top of the brightness ramp the light will be WW but at the bottom it’ll be NW.
Inversely, at the end of the warm white tint ramp, the blink and color change means the top of the brightness ramp the light will be NW but bottom will be WW.
It is a hidden setting. When you double-click-hold, as the tint changes release the button after you see the first quick blink, then the tint will stay the same through the ramp modes. when you see the second blink if you keep holding the button on at the end of each tint level, that second blink sets it to either ramp the tint along with the brightness ramp in either direction. just do the tint ramp when holding, and release the button as soon as you see the first quick flicker/blink.
agreed, the first flash is to let you know you got to the end of the tint ramp, the second flash, and likely change of tint, is to let you know you got to auto-tint mode. As DarkShot stated, top of the ramp for auto tint is either NW or WW, and bottom of the ramp is WW or NW, respectively. I don’t have the manual that came with the lantern handy, but the online one explains this as well.
I guess we really covered this feature in the last few posts. 
Thank you guys, a bit stupid of me not to check the manual good 
The head does not matter. Tube connected (light off) means all 4 positiv are connected. All 4 on the negative are connected. You have in a fracture of a second the same voltage. Sure not good for the batteries lifetime. And the lamp is still off
Put me on the list, please.
Received my LT-1 yesterday.
It seems also with my lantern, they’ve soldered all bridges first and afterwards tried to open up #6 and #7 again.
But since my baby is getting hotter than 40°C on max level (as shown in DBSARs video), I had the feeling that the bridges are still connected.
My lantern actually feels more like >50°C.
Checked the bridges with my DMM and confirmed my assumption.
So I have 7 ICs now connected. Not a problem for me. But I still wanted to easily be able to set it to the more efficient 100%.
So I was then configuring stepped ramping to:
floor: 1
ceiling: 150 (unchanged)
and steps: 8
given the fact, that with 7 7135s I get 140% of the originally intended max power.
I should be able to get almost 100% on stepping level 6 now again. Correct?
If I set the lantern to max level warm light (or cold light), how can I also expect PWM to be disabled (or set to 1/1 duty cycle) on all stepping levels?
For this, I would have to sacrifice the lowest level (1/150). Correct?
using this setting:
floor: 20
ceiling: 150 (unchanged)
and steps: 7
TK will most certainly be the only one to confirm or disprove those assumptions.
one last question about ramping mode:
It there a way to set the ceiling to 100% and still be able to activate 140% with a double click?
In other words: Is there a turbo mode or was this disabled for the LT-1?
Just opened mine. Keep in mine I’m a complete flashlight noob. Has anyone made any YouTube instructions on how to use this and all the different many features? For me, it would be easier to follow then the written manual.
Second. It came completely dead which I thought it would have had a little juice. No big deal. So I read in the manual to plug it in to charge. The manual says the button should be red when charging and green once charged. So I plug it in and it is green, not red (meaning its charged?). When I take it off the charger, it won’t turn on, so it can’t be charged. I can turn it on only while plugged into the charger, and the green light is on… (I just opened and so it has not been on the charger long)
Thoughts?
Edit: I’m in idiot. There were stickies on the batteries so they would not make contact. Now charging normally
I’ll leave my “problem” instead of deleting it incase anyone else is a newbie like me and does not know.
On my first point, i think a YouTube complete instructional would be really, really helpful for someone new to this like me
Have you removed the insulating stickers from the end of the batteries?