Boruit Headlamp Review D10 (aka. EHL0628) - King of the Budget Headlamps?

In my opinion, using 7135 regulators is like driving with an old banger, a rattletrap. There are plenty of nice high power MOSFETs which can be used in linear mode, avoiding the less than ideal regulation of 7135s when PWMed and completely doing away with such undesirability.

Thanks for sharing. So it uses a dual board e-switch driver, could you share its dimensions? Diameter and total height. I wonder what other good e-switch drivers could fit inside.

To fix hardware is not big deal, real problem is to get proper firmware to run it. Ordered few pcbs with FET+1. Gonna try to run Anduril. Stock driver size 20.7x19mm.

Hello there, I just received my lamp and I’m preparing to replace the MCPCB/LED, what the easiest way to go about taking the old board out? I understand it is difficult do to the thermal glue. Any tips are appreciated.

I use needle nose pliers and carefully but firmly twist it loose. You can remove wires first and tuck them out of the way so they don’t get cut during the twist.

Did you build that driver or buy it? I’d like to know more.

Thanks for the help! I also bought a 60° TIR lens, what/how do I shave it down, I appreciate it

It will probably be a bit too tall and too big a diameter.

You can use a metal file, sandpaper, Dremel or grinder to reduce it’s size.

Unscrew the bezel, remove the reflector, turn it on for a few seconds in maximum mode and carefully rotate the star with curved pliers

Sorry, but sounds like bad advice. Turning it on for a few seconds will not build any heat. Even if left on max for several minutes it won’t do anything. Plus you risk cutting the wires which means more work to pull them completely out and extend them. This is all assuming the battery is removed. Cutting a led wire and shorting it with a battery installed could short the battery and probably burn up the wires. :confounded:

Maybe remove the battery, remove the wires from the star, tuck wires down in holes, heat the star with the iron, then try twisting. Maybe the heat will help soften the glue, but it’s unlikely. I think the heat will just sink into the flashlight body.

No, I’m not sorry … :smiley:
Tested on at least three lights … :+1:

To change diode properly , in most cases you need to change wires as well, because they are becoming to short. To change wires you need to unscrew switch cap CLOCKWISE. When you unscrew switch cap and unsolder wires you can remove driver&charger sandwich. When all done you can mount host on soldering iron to heat it up (use gloves or don’t touch host) and remove diode .
…and when you done so much work , change stock driver to proper one :smiley: .
Lens height 11mm like stock reflector, use it with stock glass : https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32905704306.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.81db64fcAumJaw&algo_pvid=79fa8099-5b16-4e8c-9912-cd05b2f0f875&algo_expid=79fa8099-5b16-4e8c-9912-cd05b2f0f875-4&btsid=569b173b-c62a-46b1-aa89-fc078eabf1f3&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_9,searchweb201603_52

Most folks don’t change the wires, they just extend one on them. Very simple.

Where can I source a strong magnet for this guy, preferably a local place like Home Depot, or is there a better online option?

Local places are very limited in sizes. I typically order from China. Places like Banggood and Aliexpress have the best prices, but ebay may also be an option. Just figure out the size you need. N52 are the strongest.

From my experience, this is the best way to remove the LED MCPCB. I tried heating it up, but that did not help soften it up or ease in the removal. And it didn’t seem any type of solvent helped either. I tried isopropyl alcohol, paint thinner, nail polish remover (acetone), lacquer thinner, and naphtha.

It just took brute force twisting and turning the MCPCB back and forth to eventually loosen it up. And then I soldered a wire to the MCPCB to pull it out. The thermal adhesive seemed to be some type of flexible silicone material.

And in the end, the MCPCB took a beating, but I was careful to minimize any damage to the Boroit host.

I ended up sending it to a professional, thank you for the information. I also bought a gold-plated magnet to put on the outside of it, is that safe?

Just stick it with epoxy glue

Приветствую ! Драйвер на 4 АМС 7135 установил . Все работает . И память , и рампинг , и вверх и вниз .
Один вопрос : - это нормально когда сначала происходит кратковременная вспышка потом переход в память последнего режима ?

This light seems to have a sibling that features zooming TIR, name Boruit D20:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32839262144.html

Does anybody have one?

I don’t need that (yet?) but I’m curious about this setup. :slight_smile:
I wonder why did you choose RampingIOS over the more-common Andruil. Do you simply like it more? Was it easier to port to this MCU for you? Any other reason?
ADDED:
[Review] 77 Outdoors D25 Headlamp (18650) has some discussion. I’ll switch there.