Everything you say indicates that your D1 has a D4V2 driver in it. I don’t think there is a proper file for that combination available, although I don’t know the precise differences between D1 and D4V1 drivers for instance (that is, those using the same MCU).
Your other problem of the light flashing as the tube is tightened suggests a physical problem, most likely some wires are pinched between the driver and the body.
I agree with the above, it looks like Hank is now using a new driver in the D1 based on your findings. (Flashing pads, 1634 works, 85 doesn’t, D1 firmware doesn’t work, etc…). This is cool and exciting, but kind of a bummer right now in your situation.
My guess is that you have the newer MCU (ATtiny1634) and your firmware files are for the older MCU (ATtiny85). If the D4v2 firmware doesn’t work (most likely not the exact same driver as the D4v2), you will need to obtain a version of the D1 firmware suitable for use with the new MCU. I would reach out to Hank and see if all this is true, and if he can provide you with the proper firmware (to get you going).
ToyKeeper would be another good resource as she is likely the one to have written the code for the newer driver (unless Hank just modified the D4v2 Firmware, but this seems unlikely).
Does that mean the new D1 now uses ATTiny1634 MCU instead of ATTiny85? And it has the same flashing pad as D4v2 (which uses ATTiny1634)?
Can you take a picture of the D1 flashlight?
Ulp…
That’s different than mine…
I had to open mine up and use a clip on the chip, no flashing pads.
Thanks, cuberS.
Has Hank Wang confirmed that the Emisar D1 now uses ATTiny1634 and has the same flashing arrangement (similar to D4v2)?
Or is this just an “honest error” (D4v2 board installed on a D1 flashlight)?
As another data point, I ordered 2 D1’s from Hank on 10/19. Both utilize the same flashing pads as my D4V2’s. When attempting to flash with anduril.emisar-d1.hex, I end up with a D1 that does not work. When flashing with anduril.emisar-d4v2.hex, I end up with a functioning light.
It’s working. 
I just flashed my own variant of Andruil.
It’s a really big deal for me because previously I put a lot of effort into making USBASP working - and I failed.
Sorry if this is a stupid question. I have ordered the reflash kit for my d4sv2. where does one find the latest firmware version to download.
Thank you.
Just reflashed three D4V2s using this guide. Worked great. 
What’s new in the 11-24-19 release for the D4v2?
cuberS,
I posted a question about this in the firmware development thread. It seems that there are a few others that have noticed a new driver in the D1. ToyKeeper’s reply is here:
It may be helpful.
Help please.
I have downloaded Zflasher, I have the reflash kit and have got the latest firmware downloaded onto my phone. I bought the otg adapter from intl outdoors but it was for USB C. I bought this from eBay
Standard Micro USB Host OTG adapter, can be used for connecting devices like memory sticks, hard drives(need external power support), mouse, card reader, keyboard etc. to your compatible phone & tablet.
compatible with modern device:
Samsung Galaxy S2/SII/SIII/S4/i9100
ASUS Google Nexus 7(2nd Gen)/10
HTC One
Tesco HUDL
Galaxy TAB 3
Nokia N810/N9
Most of Android Tablets
When I attempt the download it comes up with “completed with errors”.
Can anyone help.
Most notably, the light wasn’t always responding to button press. In rare cases, it won’t come on. It now always does.
I have had that happen to me, and the simplest answer is maybe you are accidentally wiggling the connector.
If you can hold it very still, and try to flash it again that could work.
I tried several times before I got it to complete without errors.
Unless there is more wrong that I don’t know about, you should try this a few times… Just trying to hold the connector pins steady.
Took quite a bit of learning and time but it was more than worth it. Thanks Terry Oregon for this guide.
Finally got around to trying this. Used Win10 on the work laptop since I don’t have an android phone and don’t feel like installing Xcode or homebrew on the iMac.
Two verification fail errors using reading glasses and pushing halfway down. Then, using the Optivisor and pushing all the way down on the pogo pins: success. Yay.
Not sure if I did the factory reset properly. Held it down waiting for a flash, but it did a bunch of things and I just kept holding it down until a few seconds after it stopped doing anything different. I hadn’t changed it from defaults apart from aux settings. Those reset, so I guess it all did.
How to do thermal config? Tried the diagram and could get into config mode but failed at setting anything properly. Haven’t played with anything but Zebralights for a long time now. I use the FW3A more than my 3 Emisar D4, but in only the most basic way. The D4V2 has spent the last months in aux high blue mode on top of a clear plastic decoration. It is very pretty. I have the D4S, with cyan aux LEDs on the other side of the decoration. Even prettier. Before that, I mostly used the D4V2 in candle mode with an hour timer to go to sleep. Beautiful, but now I seem to have a large collection of LED candles vs just the one, so not so much need.
Now I see there’s a D4SV2, along with a FW21 I just ordered (bah, no 3000 or 4000K option). Lovely.
So, anyway, had to dig up the text manual for Anduril and now I get it. Wonderful, no more bug in a mode I never use, but since I waited so long I get … some other fixes. And satisfaction. I’ve been playing a lot with an Arduino Mega and the much nicer ESP32 (built in WiFi!) but command line is a bit more hardcore than the Arduino IDE. There is a GUI for avrdude but I haven’t played with it. I’d kinda like to flash my two D4 to Anduril but I’m not taking them apart to get to the chip.
The D4S has pads in a different arrangement I think. And I have no idea if it is D4 type or Anduril type interface. Probably will leave it alone unless I could buy a set of pogos (or a kit thereof) that fit it.
Anyway, thanks to all involved. Cool light, and had fun with the little bit of effort it took to reprogram it.
For anyone else, here’s the bit of instructions I need that wasn’t in this thread (or I didn’t see it):
Every config mode has the same interface. The menu has one or more
options the user can configure, and it will go through them in order.
For each menu item, the light will follow the same pattern:
- Blink one or more times, corresponding to the item number.
- Stutter or “buzz” quickly between two brightness levels for a few
seconds. This indicates that the user can click one or more times
to enter a number. It will keep buzzing until the user stops
clicking, so there is no need to hurry.
- Pause, and then go to the next option.
After the light has gone through all of the menu options, it should
return to whatever mode the light was in before entering the config
mode.
If the user doesn’t press a button during a menu item’s “buzz” phase,
that item remains unchanged from its previous value.
Maybe instead of using commands in Windows maybe something like AVRDUDESS could be used as it has an interface?
What do you think?