This probably would too with a better lens. In my experience turbo is also sometimes overpowering for as short as it lasts so that rosiness is lost in reality. Your pupils are so constricted from DEM LUMENS
Wow that FW1A is so green. I wonder if it is because Lumintop switched to the FB4 tint bin or is it because the reflector raises the DUV that much compared to TIR optics.
Occasional shit post necessary when times are slow.
“Modded” two Spyderco knives (Southard & Smock) which never got carried due to their clips to deep carry Ti clips. They will both see a lot of pocket time starting today!
Tested a hole range of emitters in a C8 and decided aside from a white flat you really cant beat a domed XML2 U4 with a 4.2A driver, just a lovely clean tidy spot with nice spill
that said there is still one or two emitters left to try… SST40 & 2mm White flat
That’s where a magnifying glass and some glasses become necessary. My short distance vision started to suck a couple years ago, but various strengths of reading glasses and some “helping hands” kept me in the modding game.
I gave my LT1 permanent aux leds. I first was tempted to go red or orange, preventing melatonin suppression you know when using the LT1 as night light . But I wanted the aux leds so dim that any physiological effect is ruled out anyway, so I decided on pretty 485nm leds, which at this very low current looks to be about 500nm (out of the range of melatonin suppression after all )
I picked up batt-minus at the ground ring near the USB-socket, soldered an oldschool through-hole 39 kOhm resistor in a via, and then soldered the white wire to that resistor (covered the solder joint with some kapton tape).
I scratched the soldermask off 4 bits of the led+ trace and thus created solder pads for the plus-side of the aux leds. The minus sides of the aux leds were interconnected with a thin wire. The end of that wire was soldered on a pad scratched into a trace that connects to some thermal pads of the 2700K main leds (they are electrically connected to nothing so can be used freely), just to have a solid place to go to. Another pad scratched in that same trace was used to solder the white wire to.
39 kOhm is a very high resistor so the aux leds are really really dim, only well visible when it is pitch-black. The first picture is an impression of the colour, the second picture is about how dim it really is, look at it in the dark to get the idea. The switch leds are at low setting btw.
The aux leds should drain the batteries in about 35 years.
A BLF friend of mine did an emitter swap for me. The Thrunite TH-20 is a great light, simple head lamp for a really good price. Excellent quality. Only the stock emitter is a bit too green/yellow. Had a 219B 9050 sw30 installed. Now it’s wonderfully warm. Direct comparison to a cool white emitter makes it look so incandescent.
So it’s not as bright as it was before, but it’s only a marginal drop. This kind of headlamp is meant for near-field tasks anyway. Headband is very comfortable. I’m going to be using this for a lot of night time work around the home & car.
My C01S driver suddenly failed and I didn’t want to pay $6 for a replacement high-low driver so I made my own 10440 driver for 30 cents. It’s running biscotti with with configurable modes, I currently use L - H - L - H - 4 bar battcheck.
Very cool. I really admire your talent. If I could do half of what you’re capable of, I’d be making all kinds of sci-fi “devices” that just happen to have emitters for flashlight use.
Really nice job, would somebody knowledgeable explain what is going on in this mod :D… for serious I am interested in some explanation or picture description :).
Nicely done on that C01S fix! Considering how tiny this thing is, that’s very impressive.
It looks like the stock board was stripped and the main components of a “typical” linear driver have been fixed on top of it (with an insulating layer in between). A attiny13a to run the show (the 8 leg chip), a single AMC7135 for current regulation (the second largest black chip), a capacitor to help smooth out the incoming current for the attiny13a (usually called a decoupling or bypass capacitor, it’s the small tan-colored? chip), and two resistors (small, black) that form a voltage divider so that the attiny13a can read the battery voltage.
That’s all the components you’d find on a Nanjg105C / Qlite driver. But instead of 4-8 of the AMC7135 regulators (350 or 380mA each), there’s one. At ~350 mA, he’d probably see 120 or so lumens. BTW, this makes the light 10440 only, no AAA.