[BLF Joint-Development] WildTrail BLF Tactical Flashlight

If the side switch will not turn on the flashlight, then that's a side switch I can get behind.

Tail switch needs to physically lock out the current flow. No parasitic drain! Would need to be turned on for recharging.

Interested

So far, I still feel fine but let's see where this ends... :-D If they ever find my corpse someday, the odds are good that I have both a flashlight and my smartphone with BLF's website opened up in my cold dead hands. }P Maybe we should vote for flashoholism to be acknowledged as a serious addiction?

Being serious again:

Thank you all for your thoughts. I will try to collate the valuable information and update the OP accordingly a.s.a.p..

Driver-wise and Firmware-wise we still need someone to help WildTrail. I totally prefer a compact EDC light with a simple, foolproof UI that anyone can use even in distress. That said, maybe it's better to use a proprietary UI or a significantly stripped down Andúril with only basic functions (no strobe, no blinkies, preset to a 3-4 stepped mode group but with thermal config still in place?).

Very well recognized! ;-) Actually, I used the XT11GT as a "template" to reproduce the shape of a typical tactical dual switch EDC light. The flashlight we are talking about here could look different. So, any similarity with WildTrail's later, actual design is purely coincidental.

I just picked up the new M2R Pro, but I am watching this with interest.

Another vote for 21700 and simple “tactical” UI!

XM-L3 ???

Looks very good for me!!

But for tactical use I don‘t like a Tailclicky for on and off and the sideswitch for choosing the different modes, because it‘s not a proper one-hand-use…

My suggestion would be a tailcap like the Klarus XT-series or, what I really would like, a sideswitch at the tail of the flashlight, like the „old“ Thrunite T30s and TN11s or the
Olight M20SX.

That would really be a great tactical one-hand-operation!!!

I like the idea of the SST70 - emitter, if possible….

Greetings,

Bodo

Hi Bodo,

As mentioned on TLF already, WildTrail is probably interested in the "classic" dual switch design, i.e. mechanical tail clicky switch + electronic side switch. Moving the e-switch into the tailcap would probably mean some additional changes, e.g. a double-tube design. However, nothing is decided yet so let's see where we go from here.

I asked Jacky about using the SST-70 (which would be my recommendation as well). Since it's a 6V/12V emitter it needs a boost driver to run at single-cell operation. As far as I understood Jacky, he wants to keep costs at a lower level if possible. Thus, a 3V emitter with a CC driver might be a good trade-off?

I'm not sure about alternatives like XM-L3 (available as of 12/2019) or XP-L HI (more intensity but less lumens). A 3V XHP50.2 is not something I would like to see in that light for it is known to have an ugly tintshift and being available in coldwhite tints, only.

Cheers,

Thomas

Interested in 2.

I started building flashlights about 10 years ago. We had a shooting the night before Christmas, three Fort Worth officers showed up and only one had a working flashlight. Streamlight owns the First responder light market. Their Nickel-Cadmium batteries self discharge. We also hard use and sometimes abuse our equipment. Solarforce made 18650 host that worked well and every one was building dropin’s. Batteries were 2200 mah with almost no self discharge compared to the Nickel ones. These and the real Surefires started small duty belt lights that we could rely on. Officers, Deputies, Firefighters and EMS all have equipment junkies in their rank. These days real tactical lights have only one or two modes with one switch only lights. Two switches and we have a few more options if the modes are locked. Moving the e-switch into the tailcap would probably mean some parasitic drain and dead lights when needed.

Are you wanting to build tactical or tacticool flashlights? Between you and me there are no tactical lights. Only lights used in a fashion that enhance the users efficiency. Ask the First responders here what they desire in a light. Military hates flashlights/bullet attracters. They went night vision years ago.

Myself. In my area we have some rural, bodies of water and lots of built up cities. I carry two flashlights; Astrolux FT01 and a two mode Pflexpro with a Cree XP-L V6 HD at 3.8 amps. The second Astrolux has been completely potted with the charging port sealed. The first had its port tab break and it got water in it. It does rain in Texas. I carry spare batteries in Soda Bottle Preforms.

I don’t need long range throw. When I light someone up in a building, parking lot or alley I need that spill to see if he has friends with him. I’ve got a fully potted 4.56 amp 3 volt Cree XHP-50.2 5400K dropin in a Solarforce. It’s almost perfect for most of my uses. It gives plenty of light but a slightly bigger reflector would improve throw. Only slight Yellow ring, not an issue for how it’s used. I use strobe rarely, mostly to signal where I’m at. In a busy parking lot strobe will still signal that ambulance 100 yards away in the daytime where to go. I do need a light that gets dropped often and still works. I need a light that has enough mass to shed lots of heat from long use. Heavy enough to hit a window. Slight tail flaring to keep it in a leather belt loop holster when running.

All lights that I use at work go into the deep end of my pool for two days. They must be absolutely dry on the inside for me to even consider using.

Not trying to be too preachy but if you want a real tactical use flashlight these are points to look at.

It may prove that a real “tactical” flashlight is so basic and bare that it becomes unattractive for flashoholics :frowning:

The FW3A is a light with e-switch in the tailcap. It’s parasitic drain according to maukka is 28μA (see: TLF/BLF/Lumintop FW3A review (18650, 3x XP-L HI cool white)). Given a 4000mAh battery capacity this means that the parasitic drain will suck the light dry in around 5952 days (roughly 16 years). If you don’t charge your light within 16 years you might run into problems. Otherwise not.

Could you add a link to the corresponding thread in TLF?

Can you guarantee that in this light?

3B Tint is aviable too. But this is the warmest.
https://www.mouser.de/ProductDetail/Cree-Inc/XHP50B-00-0000-0D0BJ450E?qs=sGAEpiMZZMu4Prknbu83y0lyJaBIkSJsf%252B7XLpo6PKOOSl1IQs%2FgBg==

That kind of equipment is very basic. My pistol has only one trigger and one magazine release. Handcuffs all use the same key unless your agency bought Chubbs. My knife has only one blade and its lock is rated at 425 pounds. My baton has no buttons or control settings. Air tanks have only one valve, one hose and one mask. Fire hoses have only two holes. Even the AED’s have pictures and talk you through their use. K.I.S.S. is the rule that we live by. Key rule is very simple very durable. However our Motorola radio has an 120 page instruction manual and needs a teen to reprogram.

If you take it to the extreme with an active shooter, down power lines, multi car crash or a large fire with injuries. Complicated and/or delicate equipment gets lost, broken or left in the fire. We use tools, not really tactical or tacticool. Our equipment is more functional and durable than cool but that makes them cool too me. Don’t get me wrong we cherish good gear beyond rational control.

Being practical not rude, is this flashlight really a tactical flashlight to be used by first responders? Or tacticool to sell to the masses. Please remember good quality functionally simple gear can do both. Think of gear that has withstood the test of time. Screwdriver, Colt 45, rope, blanket, matches, corkscrew, sword, spear, bow, axe, etc. they all do one thing well.

Interested

Interested

The USB port in the threads is nice. With a “normal” design the driver, E-switch and USB port are in the same part of the light, commonly the head, and with some rubber cover for the USB port. With the USB port in the threads of the tube, there has to be a contact plate of some sort in order to avoid needing cables between the tube and head?

I’m curios as I’ve done a bit of dual switch driver development with USB ports myself, but I’ve always used hosts with the “normal” design that have the USB port in the head.