Since there’s significant tint shift on the A14 bulb, it measures differently integrated and outside a sphere also depending on the reflector or light fixture used. Also the warm-up time has a big effect. To me the numbers seem close enough. Here’s mine directly below the bulb without a reflector and not fully warmed up. CRI number are pretty close to djozz’s.
Thanks for the tests!
My bulb was bought in feb 2015, 4.5 years ago, when Yuji was maybe a bit smaller and younger. They may just have changed the production process a bit since then.
And, as maukka pointed out, the angle may have an influence, I measured roughly straight under the bulb, without thoroughly warming up, but also the bulb was in a small white lamp shade, so some reflected light coming from other angles will have hit the detector as well.
Thanks for the explanations!
Then if it's ok with you djozz, I'll use Maukka's results for the A14 bulb in the table, to reflect. At first I thought of keeping the "worst" CRI values (all things relative) to be sure not to oversell some bulbs, but I believe you are right. Changes on the product and its manufacturing processes are most likely to have happened in those 4,5 years.
Looking back at the closests thing I found to be "manufacturer specifications", all those bulbs seem pretty adequate apart from one point. R12 value. Yuji was supposedly aiming 94ish. One probable explanation could be the fact that this "advertising image" I'm refering to is done on Yuji dies, not bulbs.
Where do we buy these or indeed the waveform?
There are links included in the opening table from the BLF High CRI Bulb thread to buy the bulbs from Europe or USA. Maukka also included links to the non-EU shop at the start of his review.
The table is blank for me, perhaps because I’m on mobile? Edit; got it, thank you
Maukka’s link gives me $102 per lamp, bit out of my budget I’m afraid, my dining room light would cost over 500 bucks alone :cry:
It’s $102 for 6 pcs A14 or $80 for 4 pcs A60.
I have a few waveform. these seem better.
Where did you buy them malkoffdevices?
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Ah that sounds better, i missed that, thanks Maukka.
*Yuji BC A60 4000K
CRI_Grade = B
Duv = –0.0024
price = $20
*Yuji BC A60 3000K
CRI_Grade = B+
Duv = –0.0016
price = $20
They aren’t anything I’m excited about.
I checked that out but it’s nearly £50 shipping, sod that!
Hmm, A60 3000K is really 2700K bulb.
For $20 per bulb Yuji may work better.
Those bulbs are actually not made by Yuji LED. They are OEM bulbs from LEDISUN which I have several of them myself (5 watts version only). It was out of stock for a long time for unknown reasons (I saw some report that they have no profit for several years already). LEDISUN’s spectrum is rather mediocre comparing to other Ultra High CRI LEDs however they have several patents in Quantum Dot LEDS and they have acquired license from CREE for the “remote phosphor” technology. Combination of Quantum Dot and “remote phosphor” would considerably improve the expected lifespan for LEDISUN lightbulbs (in theory of course, and the main reason that LED bulbs die is the crappy drivers).
I am so upset 
But it was this company and SORAA that were the inspiration for the creation of my light bulbs for eyes in 2017! And now YUJI is releasing shit with a blue peak 
This is outrageous and offensive!
Here I described the reasons why led light bulbs burn out. Article in rus, use translator — https://sundaylamp.com
In short, if at least 1 of the 4 components of the light bulb is shit, then the whole light bulb is SHIT =(
Thanks Sunlike, I already read your article. So one quick question regarding Qihan power supplies: the manufacturer told me that 12-20w BP cannot go under 400ma while output 36v however it looks like you managed to make them work with around 350ma (correct me if I am wrong). Are they working fine with 350ma output?
what 20w led driver you mean? 20w dimmable only 300mA, and it can be 400 and 250mA. All my tables you can find here — Telegram: Contact @resistorSunLike
The non dimmable 20w (QH-LO20-5-13x2). By the way, I have modified a TRIAC compatible LED driver myself.
Here are the pics of modified:
Original:
Should put the resettable fuse on the Hot (Line) side, will fix that later.