I am doing this light with TJ's Master/Slave setup, to retain the lower voltage, so I can use 3 NiMHs. I have put up a few photos of how I have wired these drivers, to fit in the base of the head.
If it's right, then it's at least. a view from a different perspective.
If it's wrong, then at least some of you guys will chime in Before I put it all together and fry three drivers and emitters? Maybe?
These three drivers would not fit laying flat, in the head. I had to do a little massaging on the edges, to make them fit in a smaller circle, by sanding some flats, where they came together and at the edges, where they touched the inside of the head. Since they all have to be grounded together, I just soldeded the edges, so they would be one solid mass and it was much easier to handle.
Here's how they look sitting inside the head's driver recess.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The wires here are solid 22ga teflon coated wire. I decided on solid, because it was much easier in this application. I could form them and hold them down with masking tape, while I soldered them in place. The closest board is the master and even though it looks like it's soldered to the LED+ pad, it's soldered to the first pin of the 7135 chip. There's just a hairs breadth clearance there and I will flow some Arctic Alumina to cover in between that pad and the wires, to make sure there isn't going to be any contact. In fact, I will cover all the connections with a touch of AA for my peace of mind.
The RED marks are where I cut the pins to the controllers, on the slave boards. I thank DrJones for clarifying that for me. It's SO much easier to cut those legs, than to remove all that crap off the slave boards.
Here's the wiring finished. The green wires are the negatives from the LED- pads and will go out to the negative sides of the emitters.
The Positive (Red) and Negative (Green) on this side of the Master board, go to the battery positive and body ground, via the Brynite contact plate that fits over the driver recess, in the head.
I have to say, that this is the most stressful part of modding, for me. I am not good with a soldering iron on these tiny connections. Mostly due to the problems (steadiness & eyesight), inherent in getting older (for me anyhow). I am using a lighted magnifyer now and for this go round, I held the boards on the table with masking tape, so I could put both arms down flat on the table, to help steady the iron. It worked better and I "think" it will hold as it should. Time will tell.
I feel I need to do whatever I can, to make this work, If I absolutely cannot, then at least I can say I have tried all I know to do. Foolish pride and the (it's a guy thing), does not allow me to let it go, nor to give it to someone else to do it for me. I wasn't taught that way and I'm not about to change now. Right or wrong... I can always go back to bare hosts and just doing the cosmetic stuff. In fact I will be doing some more of them, but not till fall, since it's getting way too warm already. I'm trying to finish up these more complicated mods and get them out of the way, before the summer heat hits full on.
Anyhow..... I'm off my soapbox and back to work.
Carry On.