[BLF Joint-Development] WildTrail BLF Tactical Flashlight

The USB port in the threads is nice. With a “normal” design the driver, E-switch and USB port are in the same part of the light, commonly the head, and with some rubber cover for the USB port. With the USB port in the threads of the tube, there has to be a contact plate of some sort in order to avoid needing cables between the tube and head?

I’m curios as I’ve done a bit of dual switch driver development with USB ports myself, but I’ve always used hosts with the “normal” design that have the USB port in the head.

Count me in.

I have started liking the 'Tactical flashlights" idea not so long ago. It was only after I got my hands on some 'real' tactical lights, not the ones eBay listings call 'tactical'.

When I'm out in the field doing beamshots I like having a flashlight that will produce X with 1 click on a button. A Anduril UI or anything similar doesn't belong in a tactical flashlight.

For me, a tactical flashlight has a UI you don't need to remember! The UI should be self explanatory without hidden modes, multiple clicks.

1 click for ON (high/turbo)

if possible 1 click to Strobe.

UI should go from High mode to low mode, not vise versa, unlike and EDC light.

Another BLF light in the making.

Should offer two options

1.low cost model at affordable price

2.optimum design/specs = high cost but on limited offer

Hello texas shooter,

You mentioned a bunch of desirable features on a true tactical flashlight. How about switch position? Is a side switch or a tail switch better?

That’s why a “tactical knife” like a Ka-Bar doesn’t have a bottle-opener or other nonsense attached to it. It does one thing but it does it flawlessly.

Anyone who wants a SAK can certainly get one, and they’re quite handy (just ask MacGyver), but it won’t be “tactical”.

I prefer a physical forward clicky switch in the tail. Very easy to find when you’re looking else where.

I’m not convinced a dual sleeve design is a good idea for a light designed to handle constant repeated impacts / recoil. Also onboard charging will be a real pain to get potted properly to stand up to the same abuse.

I’m with Texas Shooter, but I think we’ll both be disappointed.

Random Dan

I’d be interested in that!

Thank you for your insights!


That’s how I have my Quark Smart QSL set up too and I like it a lot (side switch turns on, off, and changes brightness…with blinky modes disabled; and the rear switch is full power momentary only).

Thank you all for your valuable feedback so far. I have designed a new draft design that hopefully reflect most of your input. I also drafted a basic dual switch UI for this flashlight, see OP on this thread. Please feel free to comment on this new design. Thank you!

The spot you found for the USB port is challenging. The socket is where the battery tube threads into the head. Unless the head and battery tube is one piece but that requires an unconventional method to assemble the driver.

I tried to adopt Zanflare's design of their F1 for orientation. What spot would you suggest to use best?

I have the BLF D80v2 and like it a lot. :+1:
I wish you all the best to Jackie and the team, my very small contribution will have to be the purchase of the final product since I`m a newbie on the subject. :person_facepalming:
Thank you all in advance for your hard work. :beer:

I recognised where it came from :slight_smile: , and I really like the F1 USB solution, and now I started wondering how it was done. It took a blowtorch and some force to find where the head/battery tube joint was:

So they extended the head part a bit compared to other tube flashlights, and the driver sits lower,to make room for the USB socket. Which adds 8mm length to the F1 exclusively for the USB port which is not really needed. The cavity from driver to ledshelf is a whopping 22mm, they really made no effort to make the F1 compact.

Some ideas. Don’t worry about that magic 25.4mm/1” body tube, add some more metal and bring it up. Very rarely are flashlights mounted anymore, 1” rings shouldn’t be a limiting factor. Head shouldn’t be too much bigger than the body. My large belt light has a 30mm body, 37mm head, 143mm length. Bigger heads on belt holsters can chew up shirts and car seats. I still use tail standing for buildings without power. Recessed tail switch help stop accidentally turning on the light. Steel bezel with minor ridges.

The side switch should be raised enough to find easily by touch, lit or not. And no blinkies needed

Interested in 1

…but side e-switch for tactical?… just doesn’t makes sense

Thanks a lot for investigating how the F1 is constructed, Djozz!

I extended the head part a bit to reflect the additional space for the cavity the battery tube's thread section needs to fill before its front face touches the driver's rim, see brown highlighted part below.